City Information
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Queensway
Travel
Airport
San Francisco International Airport (SFO) is 23 km south-east of the
city. There are 36,600 flights in and out of SFO per month or 1,260
a day, making it one of the busiest gateways in the world. A new
international terminal opened at SFO in late 2000 and construction
is still underway on a consolidated Rental Car Center and an
underground railway stop, both set to open in the near future. Upon
completion, a trip to the airport from downtown SF will take but a
speedy 29 mins. Oakland Airport (OAK) has two terminals and is
mainly for internal flights, but also serves Canada, Mexico and
several other Pacific countries, notably New Zealand and Hong Kong.
Airport to City Centre
Taxis wait outside all SFO terminals and charge around $35 for the
trip downtown. Super Shuttle is the most reliable airport van
service which provides door-to-door service and operates a large
fleet of vans. Service can be booked in advance online, Website:
www.supershuttle.com. The cost is $17 each way. Alternatively, the
American Airporter operates vans that depart from stops identified
by a red sign, costing $14 one way; and the SFO Airporter operates
‘roomy coaches’ that leave the airport every 20 mins and charge
$12 to downtown. If you are coming from OAK, an excellent way for
small delegations or teams to make longer trips is provided by the
Bayporter Express which runs a fleet of seven-seater vans to
neighbouring counties.
Orientation
San Francisco is quite a compact city, measuring about 120 sq
km, whose population tallied at exactly 776,733 in the 2000 census.
Like most cities in the US it is made up of a patchwork of cultural
districts each with its own flavour and special atmosphere. The key
tourist attractions and cultural sites are mainly in five districts:
Fisherman’s Wharf; North Beach; SoMa; Nob Hill and Union Sq.
Fisherman’s Wharf has sadly deteriorated in the past ten years
into a noisy and rather tacky tourist trap. Some people love it,
others loathe it, but it ranks consistently as one of the most
frequently visited attractions of San Francisco. The Financial
District is the major commercial zone, crowded with office workers
and their high-rises and yuppie bars. North Beach is the city’s
Italian district, with a wonderful collection of Italo-inspired
shops, coffee houses and restaurants. SoMa’s fortunes have
improved immensely in recent years thanks to the dot-com boom, with
many small multi-media companies setting up shop here and a
profusion of hip live/work spaces and interesting dining and
clubbing options adding to the scene. The current dot-com slowdown
may dim things a bit, but it appears this area of town is destined
to remain cutting edge and a hang-out for the artsy smart set. Nob
Hill is still charming and old-fashioned, though if you are staying
on the top be prepared for a long climb in summer fog or winter
drizzle. Always pack a jacket, heeding Mark Twain’s observation:
“The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco”.
Union Sq is the shopping district, where all the big-name boutiques
and department stores are clustered. The roads are based on a grid
system, running north-south and east-west. California St and Van
Ness Ave are the city’s jugulars, connecting downtown and the
Civic Center with the smart residential areas to the north and west
of the city. Market St links the rest of the city with Union Sq and
downtown and is frequently used as a point of reference.
Excursions
Visitors to San Francisco can easily indulge in a number of
local day trips if the city’s hills become too much to bear. Among
the choices for a quick hop are the Carmel/Monterey peninsula,
Yosemite National Park and the Mendocino coast. Surely tops on any
savvy traveller’s list, however, is the Napa Valley, a mere 90-min
drive from the city centre. Known worldwide as the premier
wine-producing region in the US, the Napa Valley boasts dozens of
large and small wineries, award-winning restaurants, soothing spas
and welcoming hotels should the visitor choose to spend the night.
Many of the local vintners offer tours and tastings – consider a
stop at Swanson Vineyards, Frog’s Leap, Chateau Montelena or
Turnbull Wine Cellars for a taste of the local grape. Lunch should
be at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon, while Bistro Jeanty is where Chef
Philippe Jeanty practises his brand of French country cookery.
Unwinding at the new, luxury spa at the Silverado Resort could be a
dangerous proposition – you may never want to leave, which is why
the rooms are conveniently located right across the street.
Getting Around
Taxis can be hailed in the street, picked up at ranks near the
major hotels and termini, or ordered by phone. The fare is a
standard $2.50 when you enter the cab, $2 per mile thereafter.
MUNI – the city’s municipal bus and streetcar network –
provides affordable and efficient public transport throughout the
city. For bus information. The adult fare is $1, buses running daily
from 0500 to 0030. Underground streetcars run from 0530 to 0050
daily; transfers are valid for two additional rides within 90 mins
of issue of your ticket.
Three cable-car lines cross the city north-south and east-west,
running from downtown over both Nob Hill and Russian Hill, into
Fisherman’s Wharf and the Bay area, and from the Financial
District west over Nob Hill and towards Pacific Heights. A single
trip costs $2. MUNI Passports are available for one day ($6), three
days ($10) and seven days ($15) for travel on all MUNI systems.If
you’ve got the time, a great way to see downtown is via the
wonderful F Line streetcars which rumble along Market St. These
vintage charabancs come from all over the world and have been
impeccably restored to their original states. The expansion of F
Streetcar line along Embarcadero to the Wharf is completed and is a
sheer delight. The Embarcadero section, however, does not also go
south to Pacific Bell Park, new home of baseball team the San
Francisco Giants.
What to see
Alcatraz Island: This notorious island penitentiary closed in
1963, since when it has become a major tourist attraction. Al Capone
and Robert Stroud were incarcerated here among some of the US’s
most unhinged criminal minds. Audio tours, narrated by former guards
and prisoners, show you around the old cell-house where you can even
be locked inside a solitary confinement cell for a few minutes! Blue
and Gold ferries take visitors from Pier 41 at Fisherman’s Wharf
to the island. Average tours last about 2 hrs 30 mins and depart
every 30 mins daily until 1630. Reservations are strongly
recommended.
Cable Cars: Originally designed by Scotsman Andrew Hallidie
in 1873 as a way to navigate the city’s steep hills, the cable
cars today are America’s only ‘moving’ National Historic
Landmark, and offer an open-air ride with fantastic views, along
with a slice of history. Not streetcars per se, as they operate via
a continuously-moving underground cable, the cable cars traverse the
city centre, either east-west through Nob Hill and the Financial
District, or north-south from Fisherman’s Wharf to Union Square.
Bank of America: Visitors interested in a towering view might want
to stop in at the 52nd floor of the Bank of America Building. From
1500 to 1800, a small cocktail lounge with the preferred north view
is open to the public. There’s a one-drink minimum but you can get
away with a soda, making the view nearly free.
Chinatown: The largest Chinese community in the Western US
and home for San Francisco’s Asian community, Chinatown is also
the city’s first proper ‘neighbourhood’, dating back to the
Gold Rush era. Little has changed since that time, since this is
where you’ll still find multi-generational families practising the
art of tai chi or settling in for tea at one of the area’s many
dim sum houses. Grant Ave is the main artery and it teems with
attractions, among them fortune cookie factories, calligraphy
studios and tea salons. A block over on Stockton are many herbalists
and fresh produce stands, well worth checking out. Bargaining is
encouraged in all establishments and is half the fun of being there.
Golden Gate Bridge: Opened in 1937 and over 2 km long, this
span of gold (some would call it orange) is synonymous with San
Francisco and its bay. It also links San Francisco with Marin County
to the north. It costs $3 to drive across, but walking its length,
armed with a sweater or sturdy windbreaker, is the best way to
experience the stunning views of the Bay, city and the nearby
islands of Angel and Alcatraz. Cyclists can use the bridge’s
western sidewalk for a quicker jaunt.
Golden Gate Park: Stretching for over three miles and across
1,000 acres, from the Panhandle (Haight-Ashbury) to the Pacific, the
park is SF’s main nature reserve and cultural centre. On Sun cars
are banned, so you can stroll around in blissful quietude. Among the
chief attractions are the California Academy of Sciences, Dutch
Windmill, Japanese Tea Garden, MH de Young Museum, Shakespeare
Garden and the Strybing Arboretum and Botanical Gardens. For precise
opening hours, consult a copy of Where or ask at any tourist
information booth.
Mission District: The city’s Latin Quarter and a
perpetually sunny neighbourhood (the nearby Twin Peaks keep the fog
at bay), the Mission has the best Mexican food in town and the
liveliest Latin music to go with it. Stroll this friendly district
to admire the many colourful murals, Victorian terraced houses and
palm trees. The adobe chapel, next to Mission Dolores, is the
city’s oldest building, dating from the late 18c.
Coit Tower/Telegraph Hill: Telegraph Hill is dominated by Coit
Tower, a 212ft monument built in 1933 in memory of the socialite
Lillie Hitchcock Coit, who bequeathed $125,000 to the city to be
used for beautification. A lift goes to the top, from where the
views over the Bay Area are quite sublime. From Fisherman’s Wharf,
take the 39-Coit bus up to the summit of Telegraph Hill Blvd.
Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA): Located south of Market, it
contains the largest collection of 20c American art on the West
Coast, including Jackson Pollock, Clyfford Still and Wayne Thiebaud,
plus a permanent exhibition of photography. There’s also a
bookshop and a café.
Fisherman’s Wharf: Replete with fishing boats, seafood restaurants
and shopping of every imaginable kind, Fisherman’s Wharf is still
where the city’s fishermen unload their daily catch, much as they
did in the 1870s. What time has wrought, however, is an entire
tourist district centred around this venerable trade. Stop in at one
of the many Italian fish ‘shacks’ for steaming clam chowder or
fresh shrimp. The views at the Wharf are lovely, and the fresh salt
air most refreshing, so do play tourist for a bit – it’s your
duty as a visitor.
Lombard St: The stretch at the top of Russian Hill is the
scene of the famous car chase in the cult Steve McQueen movie,
Bullitt. Eight brick switchbacks traverse the steep stretch between
Hyde and Leavenworth Sts. Either take a cab or, better still, walk
up the hill, admiring en route the beautiful flower beds and fine
old houses.
North Beach: The city’s Italian district, this colorful
corner of town adjacent to Chinatown is where immigrants from the
old country, and their descendants, live, work and play. The
neighborhood is replete with cafés, delis, bakeries and
restaurants, many dating back 100 years and all a feast for the
senses. Italian is spoken at every turn, and the old gents still
engage in a friendly game of bocce ball.
Pacific Heights: Here’s where you’ll find the city’s
grandest Victorian houses and most looking as fresh as a young
bride. You can thank the moneyed residents of this neighborhood for
keeping things in tip-top shape. Stroll along Pacific or Broadway
west of Gough for a look at the best of the best. Both Lafayette
Park and Alta Plaza Park, hilltop greenswards tucked between the
manses, offer excellent views of the surrounding real estate.
Shopping
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Queensway
Travel
San Francisco is a mix of areas with concentration of shops – for
example, Union Sq, Union St in Cow Hollow, Chestnut St in the
Marina, Fillmore St in Pacific Heights and Upper Grant Ave in North
Beach.
Union Sq: Elegant department stores, art galleries and
designer boutiques centrally located within a four-block radius
bounded by Geary, Powell, Post and Stockton, but spreading out a
block or two in all directions. It’s a must-stop for fashionistas,
and others with discriminating taste are Louis Vuitton, Prada, Gucci
and Chanel: take a wad of credit cards.
San Francisco Centre: A true shopping mall at the downtown
nexus of Powell and Market Sts and anchored by the splashy Nordstrom
department store, San Francisco Centre boasts four levels of
shopping heaven. Featuring the only circular escalators in the
country, punters can ogle a vast selection of shops for men, women
and children. If you don’t buy shoes while at Nordstrom you’re
missing half the fun of being here.
Where to walk
A good starting point is the Coit Tower. Take the lift up to the top
for the view, then head down Lombard St looking at the beautiful
facades of the town houses. At Russian Hill, the street narrows into
a winding descent with flowers either side and a great view over the
Bay. At the bottom turn right into Hyde St and continue along to the
dock of the bay. En route, stop in at The Cannery and the Museum of
the City of San Francisco, and check out the street musicians and
mime acts in the central courtyard. On leaving, head right onto
Beach St, left down Taylor St and into Fisherman’s Wharf. Here you
can wander through the open-air fish market and buy a selection of
shellfish. Buy a loaf of sourdough bread from one of the local
bakeries, get hold of a bottle of chilled white wine and enjoy a
delicious picnic on one of the piers jutting out into the bay.
Another great walk is from Columbus Ave and Bay St in Fisherman’s
Wharf south to the Italian district of North Beach. You’re in the
‘old country’ once you cross Lombard so take the time to admire
the neighbourhood’s quaint shops and lively cafés. At Broadway,
veer right for perhaps a hundred feet and then turn left on Grant
Ave. This will take you through the heart of Chinatown. The city’s
oldest neighbourhood, Chinatown today would more accurately be
described as ‘Asiatown’ thanks to the influx of Vietnamese,
Cambodian and Laotian residents. Nonetheless, the charming
architecture and fortune cookie factories of old still remain. Once
you pass through the Chinatown Gate at Bush and Grant you’re in
Union Sq, and can shop till you drop.
San Francisco City Guides offer free walking tours from Jun-Sept
around areas such as Chinatown, Coit Tower, Golden Gate Bridge,
North Beach and Haight-Ashbury. Pavement markers in the historic
Jackson Sq district show the Barbary Coast Trail; pick up a guide
booklet ($9) at the Visitor Information Center and have a
self-guided tour of Gold Rush era San Francisco. All About Chinatown
and competitor Wok Wiz Chinatown Adventure Tours both offer
excellent insider’s-view eating and walking tours; prices vary.