City Information
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Airport
Zagreb Pleso Airport is 20 km southeast of the city centre. The
single terminal is small but functional and recently renovated.
There is a regular direct service to most major European cities, and
the national carrier Croatia Airlines connects to Croatia’s
secondary cities.
Transport from Airport to City Centre
Taxis are usually available outside the airport, but if none are
waiting the tourist desk can call one for you. Taxis are metered
and drivers generally honest. The trip to central Zagreb takes up to
half an hour and should cost around K200.
Orientation
Zagreb is situated between the banks of the River Sava and the
foothills of Mount Medvednica. The city can be roughly divided into
three separate districts, the most picturesque of which is the old
town. Gornji grad, or the Upper Town as it is known locally, is
the seat of Croatia’s government and parliament and has some of
its finest neo-classical and baroque architecture. Most of the
buildings date from the 17th and 18th century, but one senses the
old town’s medieval roots in the narrow streets and hillside
location. Stretched out below Gornji grad or the Upper Town is Donji
grad or the Lower Town, dating mostly from the 19th century. At
the centre is Trg bana Jelacica (Ban Jelacic Sq), surrounded by
rather large pedestrian zones in Gajeva, Bogoviceva and
Tkalciceva (streets), lined with cafés and bars, and from which
radiate streets like Ilica, the main shopping thoroughfare. To
the east of Trg Bana Jelacica is Jurisiceva St and Trg Hrvatskih
Velikana, with the circular art pavilion designed by Croatian
sculptor Ivan Mestrovic. Go further and you come to the sprawling
greenery of Maksimir Park with its zoo gardens. To the west of
Trg bana Jelacica are the National Theatre and Zagreb’s main art
museums, the Mimara and the Arts and Crafts Museums. To the
south of Trg bana Jelacica is the railway station, which acts as a
frontier between pre- and post-war Zagreb. The latter, awash
with businesses and government ministries, is dominated by concrete
skyscrapers. Across the Sava river lies Novi Zagreb (New
Zagreb), home to the fairgrounds and too many oppressive
communist-era residential flats.
Excursions
Zagreb is ideally located for different day trips. The Croatian
hinterland (Hrvatsko Zagorje) is just behind the Medvednica mountain
and gives you an opportunity for a wonderful day trip, through the
picturesque hills lined with vineyards and small villages. This
lovely area is full of medieval castles. Plitvice Lakes National
Park, an easy drive from Zagreb, is included in Unesco’s World
Heritage List, and offers the beauty of 16 lakes with waterfalls
cascading from lake to lake, with plenty of streams and hiking
trails. Do not forget to take a cable car ride to the top of
the mountain Sljeme, towering above Zagreb, and enjoy the panoramic
view from the top (1,035m).
Getting Around
Travellers are less likely to get swindled in Zagreb than they are
in other capitals in this part of Europe, and violent crime is
rare, although foreigners should keep an eye out for the occasional
‘fast’ taxi meter. In fact, the biggest problem travellers
are likely to have with taxis is finding enough of them. Taxis queue
in front of the bus and train stations, near the main square,
at several other stands throughout the city and in front of the
hotels. But don’t count on flagging one down in the street;
even in the busy city centre, it can be a long wait. However most of
the places of interest, business or tourist, are within walking
distances.
What to see
Zagreb Cathedral: Archaeological investigations suggest
the first church on the site of the present day cathedral was built in
the 9c. The current building is, however, much younger. Like most
major European churches, the cathedral has gone through numerous
phases of construction and destruction. The most recent changes were
made after the earthquake of 1880 caused the vaulting to
collapse and damaged the bell tower beyond repair.
Lotrscak Tower: Each day at noon
a cannon is fired from the top of this 13c tower to mark the day
that, according to tradition, a cannonball fired from Lotrscak
landed on the lunch of the Turkish Pasha, and convinced him to call
off his siege of the city. Inside the tower is a small museum
of the city history.
Mimara Museum: Zagreb’s
premier art museum was founded on the collection of Ante Mimara
(1898-1987). Among the attractions are a fine collection of
hand-blown glass from ancient Egypt to the late 19c, and strong East
Asian collections. Also notable is the assortment of Eastern
European Christian icons. The collections also include works by many
of the old masters, as well as some more recent pieces from
Western Europe, including several fine Impressionist works.
The Zagreb City Museum: Built in
1907 and reconstructed in 1997, this museum is now one of the most
interesting places to see in Zagreb. Completely restored and
modernised, it uses state-of-the-art technology and shows the city
and its way of life from ancient times to the present day.
Botanical Gardens: The botanical gardens were laid out in
1889 as research grounds for the school of forestry. They still serve
the university, but are open to the public as well, and offer
pleasant walks when the weather is fine.
Medvedgrad Castle: Built in the 13c under threat of Tartar
attacks, Medvedgrad is located on the southern side of Mount Medvednica,
above Zagreb. The castle is in reasonably good condition and a
certain amount of reconstruction has been done.
Shopping
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Zagreb’s main shopping district is along Ilica between Trg bana
Jelacica and Britanski Trg, on streets coming off Ilica, like Gajeva,
Preradoviceva and Gunduliceva and in the pedestrian zone. Importanne
Centre is an underground mall, with its main entrance across
the main railway station. Croatians love fashion, and visitors will
find a wide variety of clothing, although the prices are often
surprisingly high – one of the reasons many Croatians still shop
in Austria and Italy. The Dolac market place in Gornji grad is
the best place to find local arts and crafts. For a locally produced
gift, a good bet is foodstuffs. Croatia’s rocky coast
produces unique dry wines, as well as top-quality cheeses, olive oil
and meats.
Where to walk
It is worthwhile getting hold of the Zagreb City Walks booklet,
which can be obtained at the Zagreb Tourist Information Centre.
You can see pretty much everything worth seeing by walking around,
since most of Zagreb’s sights are centrally located. From the
train station, walk by the 19c art pavilion, and continue north
through the parks to the main square, Trg bana Jelacica. From
there you are within reach of the cathedral, or you can walk up
Tkalciceva for a relaxed coffee and some people-watching along
Zagreb’s main promenade. From Tkalciceva, keep your eye out for
narrow alleys leading up to the left – these all lead to
Radiceva. Halfway up Radiceva, you can double back through the 13c
Stone Gate – now also a Marian shrine – and emerge in the
Upper Town. As you wander through the narrow streets, keep your eyes
out for the old street signs, which were also written in
German. Do not miss St Mark’s Sq and St Mark’s church with the
multicoloured ceramic roof tiles showing the Croatian and
Zagreb’s coats of arms. It dates back to the 13c and was once the
parish church of Gradec. Inside the church you’ll run into
sculptures of Croatian sculptor Ivan Mestrovic again. You can
descend from the old town on the funicular
railway, located in front of Lotrscak Tower, or continue left along
the promenade back towards Trg bana Jelacica. Note the statue
of writer AG Matos (sitting alone on the bench). If you use the
funicular railway, turn left to Ilica St and after 50m turn
right into Preobrazenska to emerge on Preradovic Sq, better known as
the Cvjetni plac (Flower market). Head down Preradoviceva St
and then right into Masarykova towards Trg Marsala Tita (Marshal
Tito Sq), and a campus of cultural buildings including the old
University, the National Theatre, the Mimara and the old National
Library (the new National Library is located on the way to the
airport). The Croatian National Theatre is a monumental construction
built in 1894/95 according to the designs of two Viennese
architects, Hellmer and Fellner, famous for their theatre building.
In front of the building stands the Well of Life (Zdenac Zivota),
a work by the great sculptor Ivan Mestrovic. The large, greyish-blue,
neo-renaissance building, a former grammar school that now bears the
name MIMARA in large letters on its facade, is a museum that
came into being thanks to the art collector Ante Topic Mimara and
his wife Wiltrud. They donated to Zagreb their magnificent
collection of 3,750 works of art. In the summer you can finish
off your walk in the botanical gardens that contain over 10,000
species of plants, but if the weather is cold, head for a coffee and
a snack in the Bistro at the Hotel Esplanade. In the evenings, visit
the small theatre Komedija near the Cathedral, famous for the
operettas and several very good Croatian musicals.
Weather and Climate
Summer in Zagreb is hot and unpleasant and even the best dressed are
seen in shirtsleeves. It can remain sweltering through September.
Winters are relatively mild, and the snow seldom stays more than a
few days. Spring is in full bloom by early May.
At a glance
• Croatia is the birthplace of the tie. During the
Thirty Years War (1618-1648) some Croatian infantry were sent to
Paris to support Louis XIII. Unlike other units, the Croats
were distinguished by their beautiful silk scarves, fastened loosely around
their necks. Totally unknown to the rest of Europe at that time, the
French thought it not only stylish, but more practical than the
stiff starched collars presently worn. Around 1650, the Croatian
neck scarf was accepted as a symbol of elegance and culture.
This fashion innovation à la croate gave the French the word
cravate, and then spread to the rest of the world.
City Ma