City Information
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Airport
Okecie International Airport is about 10 km south of the city. It is
one of the most modern airports in Europe, with a comprehensive
range of facilities at its two terminals – one domestic, one
international. Currency exchange is available 24 hrs a day in
the international terminal.
Airport to City Centre
There is a taxi rank just outside Arrivals with taxis almost always
ready and waiting. However, do be sure to go to the rank as
cowboy taxi drivers always hover in Arrivals: these are the rip-off
merchants. Taking a 919 taxi (the number is clearly displayed)
is the safe bet. This is a national taxi company; they have good
rates and accept all major credit cards as well as Maestro
debit cards. Even with traffic a taxi to the centre should cost no
more than Zl25. Journey time is around 20-30 mins
Orientation
Warsaw is both the capital and the largest city in Poland, with a
population of 1,675,000. The city spans both banks of the River
Vistula, covering an area of 470 sq km and 7 administrative
districts: the City Centre, Mokotów, Ochota, Wola, Zoliborz,
Praga Pólnoc and Praga Poludnie. Warsaw’s historic districts
and modern centre are on the left (west) bank. This area is neatly
bisected by the major thoroughfare of Aleje Jerozolimskie,
running from east to west. The north of the city contains the Old
Town (Stare Miasto), with its Market Square (Rynek Starego
Miasta), Royal Castle (Zamek Krolewski), and numerous restaurants,
cafés, boutiques, art galleries and tourist information
centre.
To the south of the city is Lazienki Park, home to several palaces,
while Al Ujazdowskie features various embassies and government
headquarters. An industrial/business belt is located in the southern
suburbs en route to the airport.
Getting Around
Taxis are the best option for getting to business meetings and can
be picked up at ranks throughout the city, in the street and in
front of hotels, or booked by phone. Between 2200 and 0600 taxi
fares are usually 50% higher. The largest and most reliable
taxi firm is 919. It has its own taxi ranks at the airport, most
railway stations and at key spots throughout the city; they
also accept most major credit cards and debit cards and, if ordered
by phone, you rarely have to wait more than 5 mins.
What to see
Zamek Krolewski: The Royal Castle, seat of Polish kings from
the 17c, was totally destroyed during WWII, but rebuilt to its original
splendour in the 70s, thanks to donations from ex-pat Poles around
the world. Now a museum, its chambers, court rooms and
Senatorial Hall feature Baroque, Gothic and Rococo elements, and
also serve as a concert and exhibition venue.
Lazienki Park: Enchanting, English-style park containing a
number of neo-classical buildings, among them the highly romantic Palace
on the Isle, pavilions, an orangery and Egyptian temple. In summer,
theatrical performances are staged in the park’s amphitheatre,
with Sunday concerts at the foot of the monument to Frederic Chopin.
Wilanow Palace: Set in splendid grounds, with a classical
Italianate park, the Baroque Wilanow Palace is on the southern edge of
the city. Now a museum, there is also an orangery and poster museum.
Zelazowa Wola: Under an hour’s drive from the city, this
18c manor house was the birthplace of Frederic Chopin. Concerts are given
on Sundays during the season and the house is a museum containing
memorabilia of Warsaw’s most renowned composer.
Warsaw Historical Museum, Old Town Square: This remarkable
museum traces the entire history of the city, and it shows a black and
white film shot by the Nazis showing their systematic destruction of
Warsaw. By the end of WWII, Varsovians were faced with
rebuilding a city that had been reduced to 20 million cubic metres
of rubble. Much of the city was rebuilt within a decade.
National Museum: 3 Jerozolimskie Ave. Comprising three art
galleries each covering a different period and genre. The collection
of Polish paintings is one of the best in the country, while the
Gallery of Ancient Art includes Coptic/Byzantine frescoes from
Faras.
Shopping
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In the last two or three years, shopping in Warsaw has been
revolutionised with the arrival of a number of French hypermarkets.
Situated on the outskirts of the city, stores like Auchan, Géant,
Le Clerc and most recently Carrefour offer a huge range of
goods at competitive prices with everything from electrical items
and sports equipment to food on sale. While many of the
international brands are stocked elsewhere, they are a good place to
find quality French cheeses and wines. Although the stores look
much like hypermarkets anywhere, you know you are in Poland when you
visit the fish counter at Auchan. Here it’s possible to
select a live fish from the tank, and watch it be knocked over the
head in front of you. In the week before Christmas, fish stalls
spring up all over the city selling carp, which is traditionally
eaten on Christmas Eve. Visit a Polish home at this time of
year, and except to see the festive fish in the bathtub, where it is
kept until the
seasonal feast.
Where to walk
More than 90% of Warsaw was destroyed as Hitler’s revenge for the
Warsaw Uprising of 1944, while 800,000 Poles and Jews died during
the war. There are poignant memorials to the dead throughout the
city. Historic districts and buildings were authentically
reconstructed using original plans. To appreciate the scale of
the task, wander through the cobbled streets of the Old Town, taking
in the Royal Castle,
Cathedral of St John, Old Town Market Square, the Barbican, Marie
Curie Museum, and the New Town Market Square, with numerous
galleries, cafés and restaurants along the way. Then take the
Royal Route, passing elegant palaces, burghers’ houses, Warsaw
University, embassies, and Neo-Classical buildings housing
shops and boutiques. It begins in Castle Square and continues along
Krakowskie Przedmiescie, Nowy Swiat, Plac Trzech Krzyzy and
Aleje Ujazdowskie to Lazienki Park and Wilanow Palace, with notable
sights including the monument to Adam Mickiewicz (Poland’s
premier poet), and the Church of the Holy Cross.
Local Issues
First-time visitors to Warsaw can’t help but notice the rather
scruffy nature of the city, the haphazard layout and the lack of
a cohesive, planned city centre. In the district encircling the
Marriott and Holiday Inn, close to the Palace of Culture and
Science is an area of waste ground housing a ramshackle cluster of
market stalls and shacks. This is a graphic illustration of one
of Warsaw's most pressing problems – the fact that vast tracts of
prime land remain derelict and undeveloped as a direct result
of unresolved disputes over land ownership. Following the near total
devastation of Warsaw in WW II, the map of the city changed
completely. With the original landowners either dead or seeking
refuge abroad the Communist government nationalised private
property, public buildings were built over old streets and new
streets created. Since 1989, however, many of the original
owners or their descendants have resorted to the courts to reclaim
their land.
Successive governments have failed to address the moral dilemma of
whether or how to compensate these people, and the law remains
unclear. The result is that property developers are wary of
investing in city-centre sites and most development to date has
taken place in the suburbs.
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