City Information
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Airport
Tbilisi airport has improved vastly from its communist days. A small
terminal provides a reasonably smooth transition from plane to terra
firma. A visa can be bought at a booth on arrival ($75), but it’s
cheaper to arrange one beforehand ($40). Custom officers used to be
on the lookout for income supplements. If they try to charge more
just for the weight of your bags on arrival, protest vehemently;
they usually give up. Flying time from London is just under 5 hrs.
Beware the periods of time change – it sometimes confuses the
airlines.
Airport to City Centre
The airport is a 20-min drive from the city centre and the average
taxi journey costs about $10 – a little more if you arrive during
graveyard hours. The bus service is not reliable. However, Georgians
are wonderful hosts and like to greet their guests at the airport.
Most hotels can arrange pick-ups.
Orientation
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Tbilisi is a long, narrow city, hemmed in by mountains and a river
valley. Its centre is generally regarded as Freedom Sq. To the south
is the old town overlooked by the imposing Narikala fortress.
Northward runs the main street, Rustaveli Av, which ends at the
Republican Sq, next to the towering Iveria Hotel – another
landmark. The city then follows the course of the mountain and forks
out towards two main regions, Vake to the west, and Saburtalo to the
North. Most of the action in Tbilisi seems to take place on this
side of the river, but on the other side in Plekhanov, David
Aghmashenebeli St is the city’s third main artery. A good way to
get your bearings is via the bridges, starting with the Metekhi,
under the Narikala fortress, followed by Baratashvili, then the Dry
Bridge. Because of the river and white Caucasus peaks to the north,
Tbilisi is a very hard place to get lost in.
Getting Around
There can be few cities in the world with more taxis per capita than
Tbilisi – although many are just ordinary cars with a checked
board stuck in the window. Prices are correspondingly low. A fare of
$1.50 will get you to most places, but for $2.50 you can go just
about anywhere in the city. Try to take the red taxis, as they tend
to have reliable meters and safe drivers – and are haggle-free.
The metro is good but limited; the buses are terrible; and the
middle ground is covered by numerous minibuses following numbered
routes – at 30 cents a journey. A good tip is to try to find a
route map for your local marshurtkas.
What to see
Sioni Cathedral: Situated by the river close to the Metetkhi bridge,
this is Tbilisi’s main church. Originally built in the 5c shortly
after Georgia converted to Christianity, this small but picturesque
church encapsulates the spirit of Georgia. The walls are covered in
frescoes, and the mellifluous strains of practising choirs are an
added enchantment.
Museum of Tbilisi and Caravanserai: Beside Sioni Cathedral is an old
caravanserai, used by traders on the Silk Road, now converted into a
small shopping area and café. On the first floor is the interesting
Museum of Tbilisi, which illustrates the history of the city from
pre-Christian times to the present day, including Georgia’s brief
period of Menshevik independence 1918-1921.
Art Museum: Housed in the former Theological Seminary, which taught
Stalin and many of the famous revolutionaries, this is Tbilisi’s
best museum. It contains the Pirosmani collection – Georgia’s
most famous painter – and a treasury displaying the nation’s
finest icons.
The old town: Here it is best just to wander around and experience
the charm of Tbilisi. The buildings are constructed largely of wood,
with picturesque sagging balconies and carved pillars – in fact,
there’s more of a feeling of old Persia than of a modern city to
these winding streets. One clearly feels the mix of cultures, where
Georgian and Armenian churches are juxtaposed with synagogues and
mosques.
The Baths: A visit to one of the several baths beside the old town
is an absolute must. They have been one of Tbilisi’s main
attractions for centuries, and they still carry the same faintly
sulphurous tang that inspired the likes of Tolstoy, Pushkin and
Alexander Dumas. Entrance is rarely more than $5 and a thorough
massage usually costs around $15. New baths have recently opened
offering more Westernised health-club services – but at higher
prices.
The Opera and Rustaveli Theatre: Set about 100m apart on Rustaveli
Av, no stay in Tbilisi is complete without a visit to one of these
theatrical establishments – the Georgians have a long and proud
tradition of fine stage performances. Check English language
newspapers for listings.
Where to walk
The best way to see Tbilisi is on foot. and one walk in particular
stands out from the others: up from the baths to the Narikala
Fortress, along the paths to the huge silver Mother Georgia statue
then back down into the old town. The views are magnificent all the
way. Rustaveli Av is also recommended, since it includes the State
History Museum, with its splendid collection of ancient gold and
silver jewellery. A bit further down, you’ll also find the
Kashveti Church and Parliament building, the Rustaveli Theatre and
Opera, not to mention numerous cafés, restaurants and souvenir
shops. For the less energetic, a trip up Mtatsminda mountain’s
funicular railway to St David’s Church is recommended,
particularly for its poet’s cemetery.
City Map