City Information
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Airport
St Petersburg is served by two airports 12km south of the city:
Pulkovo 1 for domestic flights, and Pulkovo 2 for international.
There is no public transport between the terminals, which are 10
mins apart by road. Currency exchange facilities, a post office and
left luggage lockers are available in both terminals 24 hrs a day.
There are no conference rooms at the airport, but the 840-room
Pulkovskaya Hotel has meeting space for 500 people midway between
the airport and the city centre.
Airport to City Centre
The St Petersburg taxi mafia is worse than Moscow’s, having total
monopoly on gypsy cab business into the city. It is essential to
have someone pick you up. As the main road is an unwalkable
distance, taxis can charge more than it costs to fly to Moscow. If
you are absolutely forced to take a taxi from the airport, it is a
good idea to team up with fellow travellers in the Arrivals hall to
at least make the trip a little less painful. At the time of writing
the 30-min trip into town cost $40-60. The city administration
attempted to outlaw gypsy cabs in 1987, but they are still very much
in evidence at the airport and elsewhere in the city. Prices should
be agreed beforehand and should be at the lower end of the fare
scale.
Buses connect both terminals with Moskovskaya metro station, 20 mins
away on the edge of town. Bus 39 operates from Pulkovo 1, while bus
13 and several enterprising minibus operations link Pulkovo 2 with
the station. Unlike Moscow, St Petersburg now operates a conductor
system. You will be expected to purchase one ticket for yourself and
another for your luggage. Due to chronic overcrowding, public
transport is to be avoided from 0800 to 1000 and from 1600 to 1900.
Orientation
St Petersburg straddles the mouth of the river Neva at the
easternmost spur of the Baltic, dividing the city into northern,
eastern and southern sectors. Peter the Great’s rigid town
planning bestowed a grid-like legacy of wide boulevards dissected by
canals, towered over by imposingly chilly architecture. The earliest
settlement is marked by the soaring gold spire of the SS Peter and
Paul Fortress on a delta of islands in the Neva known as Petrograd
side. The main commercial zone is clustered around the artery of
Nevsky Prospekt on the south bank of the Neva, with the tourist
centre of the Winter Palace and Admiralty a little to the north.
Nevsky Prospekt is trisected by three canals. Many of the tourist
attractions are along the embankments of these beautiful canals.
They are: the Moika, the Griboedova and the Fontanka canals.
Getting Around
The metro is the cheapest and quickest way to negotiate greater St
Petersburg. Not only is it efficient, but beautiful, too, with
marble-festooned stations boasting stunning statuary and art
depicting Russia’s history. Fares operate on a token system which
must be purchased before travel. For city-centre journeys, take a
bus, trolley-bus or tram. Tickets are sold at kiosks at major
interchanges or in strips of ten by the drivers.
Taxis are also an easy, cheap and safe way of getting around. They
can be hailed in the street or ordered from your hotel. It is unwise
to take cabs immediately outside your hotel or major tourist
attractions. At best they will be ridiculously expensive. Simply
walk past these drivers and hail a passing car on the road. Gypsy
cabs are an easy mode of transport – as long as you follow a few
common-sense principles: agree a price in advance, know exactly
where you want to go, and avoid taking a cab with anyone other than
just the driver inside. Cabbies speak little, if any, English, so
take a written copy of your destination in Russian. Gypsy cab prices
are about half those in Moscow.
What to see
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Peter and Paul Fortress: This fortress on the banks of the Neva was
one of the first structures in the city and marks the spot where
Peter the Great conceived of St Petersburg as his shimmering
neo-classical window on the West. Built between 1703 and 1733 to
protect the new settlement from attacks by the Swedes, it is
dominated by the soaring spire of Petropavlovsky Cathedral which, at
122m tall, was deliberately designed to eclipse the Ivan the Great
Bell Tower in the Kremlin. The cathedral is the burial place of
Peter and all his successors, the most recent addition being the
last Tsar, Nicholas II, who was laid to rest here in Jul 1998. Other
points of interest in the fortress are the nearby dungeons where
Peter incarcerated (and later murdered) his son Alexei, the Neva
Gate chronicling the city’s many floods, and the Engineer’s and
Commandant’s houses, which now host exhibitions. On the north bank
of the Neva river by the Troitsky Bridge.
The Hermitage: This ranks alongside the Louvre in Paris and the
Prado in Madrid as one of the world’s greatest museums. Just
glancing at each of the 3 million exhibits would take nearly a
decade. The vast collection includes Russian art, works by Da Vinci,
Raphael, El Greco and the French Impressionists, some of which are
part of the so-called Trophy Art collection taken from Nazi Germany
after WWII and kept secret for half a century. Many of the artworks
are housed in the Winter Palace, the frothy, baroque Imperial
residence that was built by Bartolomeo Rastrelli between 1754-62,
and which was stormed in the October Revolution of 1917. Many of the
lavish state rooms are still intact and on view. 36 Dvortsovaya
Naberezhnaya.
St Isaac’s Cathedral: This massive structure is one of the most
prominent features of the St Petersburg skyline and sports the third
largest cathedral dome in Europe. The Mariinsky Palace on St
Isaac’s Sq, now the home of St Petersburg city government, and the
legendary Bronze Horseman on the Neva are other points of
interest.
The Summer Garden: This elegant garden laid out in rambling English
style, surrounded on all sides by water and adorned with 80 baroque
statues, was the favoured haunt of Alexander Pushkin, Russia’s
greatest poet. In the northern corner is the Dutch-style Summer
Palace of Peter the Great, the third oldest building in the
city.
Pushkin House museum on the Moika canal has recently been
refurbished and is open to the public. These museums of Russia’s
most famous writers and poets see hordes of Russians pass through
every year in the reverent silence usually reserved for saints.
Pushkin’s house itself is one of the best, boasting a large
collection of his personal belongings. It was in this house that the
poet died following a duel with a French officer, who had made a
move on the poet’s wife. Nominally you have to join a group, but
foreigners who hire an ‘audio-gid’ can wander through the house
unaccompanied.