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Airport  
In March 2001, Inchon International Airport opened as the new international airport. It is located 52 km west of Seoul on Yoengjon Island. With a price tag of $5.6 billion and built on reclaimed land between two islands just off the coast of Inchon, the new airport rivals many modern airports in size, style and elegance – a welcome change after the rather fatigued atmosphere of Kimpo. Facilities are a great improvement on the old Kimpo Airport, too, with plenty of banks, duty free shops, retail shops, cafés and many other food and drink outlets. Kimpo Airport is being downgraded to a domestic airport. Korean Air has the only direct flights from London Heathrow to Seoul, departing once a week, Flight time from London is 10 hrs 50 mins. British Airways have cancelled their non-stop Heathrow-Seoul service until further notice, with flights now making a stopover in Hong Kong, so add 3-4 hrs flight time.
Airport to City Centre
Transport to the new airport in easy from almost any point in Korea. Every dong has an airport deluxe bus running every 20-30 minutes, from 0530 to 2200. Korean Air run a limousine bus service from all major hotels to the airport. The cost for either bus service is W10,000. Journey time is around 50 mins via the new, direct road into the city centre. It is strongly advised to use this very efficient bus service, as an ordinary grey taxi ride from the airport to the city centre will set you back W100,000 because of steep tolls and user fees. There will be a direct, high-speed rail link into Seoul, but this is not scheduled to open until 2005. 
Orientation
Seoul is both the capital and the heart of the Republic of Korea, home to 15 million of the nation’s 47.6 million people. The city is bisected by the west-flowing Han River (gang), with the tiny island of Youido forming the city’s financial area. North of the river is the old city centre and old money: Namsan (meaning ‘south mountain’), Taehakno, the Myongdong shopping district, US military base Yongsan and Itaewon, the city’s shopping and nightlife mecca for foreigners. Also north of the river are two large wholesale markets – Namdaemun (‘south gate’) and Tongdaemun (‘east gate’). South of the Han River are the latest boutiques, new economy businesses and trendy eateries. In Kangnam (‘south of the  river’), Tehranro is the centre of Korea’s enterprise boom, where most IT startups and dotcoms have set up shop. Also, look out for Apkujong-Dong, a trendy, market neighbourhood of expensive designer boutiques, modern restaurants and nightclubs; the Olympic Park, the legacy of Seoul’s glory as host of the 1988 Olympic Games; and the recently completed Seoul Arts Centre (aka Sejong Centre for Performing Arts), a modern complex of concert and performance halls. 
The north-west corner of the city is home to Shichon, Hongdae and Ehwadae, where students flock at weekends to shop and play. With the exception of the major avenues in the centre, most streets in Seoul have no name, and addresses usually indicate the dong (district) and gu (ward). You have to work out the location of your destination in relation to a well-known landmark in the area. The city centre has several main avenues, which change names as they cross other avenues. The main streets running east-west are Chongno, Ulchiro and Toegyero; those running north-south are Sejongno (becoming Taepyongno after intersecting with Chongno) and Tonhwamunno. The suffix -no or -ro means ‘street’ in Korean. 
The best way to get around Seoul is to request your Korean host or hotel concierge to provide you with the destination name written in Korean and include a telephone number. Most taxi drivers have mobile phones and can easily call the destination for exact directions. 
Excursions
Panmunjom, on the border between North and South Korea, was where the 1953 Armistice was signed to end the Korean War. The village stands in the demilitarised zone, with the conference hut in the Joint Security Area straddling the military demarcation line separating the two Koreas. Visitors can step over this line into North Korea for a second to add to the momentous occasion of being on the world’s most heavily fortified border and the last frontier of the Cold War. There are a few organisations that conduct tours up to the border, including the Korea Travel Bureau. The American army USO provides the cheapest and most extensive tour. Most of their customers are non-military. Buses leave in the morning and return late afternoon. Advance booking is required and applicants must bring their passports. No jeans are allowed as this apparently this gives a bad impression to the North Korean border guards. 
The Korea Travel Bureau additionally conducts tours to view the No 3 North Korean infiltration tunnel, built in the 1970s right next to the border. It was intended to take North Korea by surprise in the event of an attack, by discharging UN troops at their rear. Visitors can take a guided tour into the depths and view North Korean graffiti chiselled into the wall. The tour ends at the site of a manned machine gun post pointing north; don’t worry, the tunnel has been sealed. A reasonable state of fitness is required. 
Paranduel Tours has begun offering weekend package and day tours for foreigners to slightly obscure yet fascinating corners of Korea like Andong and the South Cholla Province. Prices for a weekend package are reasonable and the English-speaking guides are excellent. Gwanaksan mountain refuge, located in the southern suburbs and 629m above sea level, is a popular weekend jaunt for locals, who regularly make the 4-5hr ascent. As well as good views from the peak, the flora and rocky outcrops on the mountainside are an attractive alternative to the concrete and glass of the city centre.
Amsa-dong is the largest prehistoric site so far discovered in Korea. Wander through eight 6,000-year-old dugouts and a storage house and examine neolithic artefacts found on the site for an insight into our ancestors’ way of life.The Korean National Tourism runs special Seoul City Tours for transit passengers who arrive in the morning at Inchon and have at least six hours to kill. The tour starts and finishes at the airport and makes stops at major sites, including the Blue House and Kyungbuk Palace.

What to see
Changdokgung (Changdok Palace): Changdok was rebuilt in 1611 and served as the official residence of a number of Yi dynasty kings, including the last one, King Sunjong, who died in 1926. Today, you can visit the throne hall, reception rooms and private living quarters, furnished in a European and traditional Korean style. Behind the palace, the landscaped Secret Garden or ‘Piwon’ is a tranquil collection of pavilions, ponds and copses. Daily guided tours are available in English.
Changgyonggung: East of Changdok Palace are the ancient grounds of Changgyong Palace, the largest public park in Seoul. A favourite haunt for young couples and families.
Chongmyo Shrine: Opposite Changgyong Palace, this walled complex includes a wooded garden and two buildings containing the royal ancestral tablets listing the names and great deeds of the 27 Chosun or Yi dynasty rulers. On the first Sunday in May, the inner courtyards and shrines are opened to the public for an annual Confucian ceremonial rite.
Yeouido Park: This is a natural park with plenty of colourful flowers situated in the middle of the city and covering 21,000 sq m. Yeouido is divided into four areas: a ‘traditional garden’ with ponds, an ‘ecological forest’ for a nature study, a‘green yard’ where people can ride bicycles and a ‘cultural plaza,’ where cultural performances including music concerts are held. Good for jogging, walking or cycling.
Chogyesa (Chogye Temple): Headquarters of the largest Buddhist sect in Korea, this traditional temple has a typical, colourfully painted, curved wooden roofline. Every May, for Buddha’s birthday, the temple grounds become a marvel of lights with hundreds of lanterns strung around the temple. 
Kyongbokgung: Kyongbok Palace was originally built in 1394 and rebuilt in 1868 after destruction by the Japanese. The king sat on his throne facing south through Kwanghwamun Gate and down Sejongno to Namdaemun (South Gate). In 1926, the Japanese colonial government built its headquarters between the palace and Kwanghwamun Gate, blocking the view from the throne, but it was demolished in 1996. Today, the 40-acre palace grounds house the throne room, several pavilions and a pagoda. 
National Folklore Museum: In the grounds of Kyongbok Palace, the museum displays artefacts of daily life and explains how they were used. 
Lotte World Folk Village: This indoor folk village is part of Lotte World, a sprawling entertainment complex with hotel, department store and the largest indoor amusement park in the world. The centre provides a visual lesson in the country’s history and culture, reconstructing the history of Korea from the primitive period to Japanese occupation, via scenes of daily life.
Namsan and Seoul Tower: Namsan is a refreshing patch of greenery, with wooded trails, landscaped parks and botanical gardens providing a colourful display all year round. Perched on top of the mountain is the Seoul Tower, which gives a bird’s eye view of the entire city – on clear days, you can see North Korea through binoculars.Seoul Dream Land: The city’s largest amusement park. Popular rides include the dragon coaster, cycle monorail and skyrider.
Pukansan National Park: A 30-min bus ride north of the centre takes you to Pukan Mountain for a magnificent view of the mountains and the city below. En route to the top, pause for a refreshing drink of water at any one of several Buddhist temples along the trails. 
Toksugung: The ancient Toksu Palace was the seat of the Chosun dynasty, which ruled Korea for more than 500 years, until Japan annexed the Korean peninsula in 1910. Reconstructed after the Korean War, various royal remnants lie dotted throughout the grounds, including a banqueting hall, several pavilions and a statue of King Sejong, the 15c king who created Hangul, the Korean alphabet. At weekends, the re-enactment of the Chosun dynasty ceremony for the changing of the royal guards takes place.
War Memorial: Modern museum providing a visual history of Korea at war, with hundreds of weapons, memorabilia, war planes (including a B-52 bomber), tanks and weapons. The memorial is in Yongsan, across from the Defence Ministry. 
The Han-gang River: The river flows through the heart of Seoul, bisecting the capital and passing many attractions along its way. Taking a river cruise, especially by night when the bright lights of the city illuminate the Seoul skyline, can be a memorable experience for visitors. 
Seoul Racecourse Foreigner’s Betting Lounge: In Feb 2000, the Seoul Racecourse in Kwachon opened an exclusive betting room and lounge for foreigners. English, Chinese and Japanese are spoken by the betting agents. Races are held 91 times a year on Sat, Sun and select holidays from 1100 to 1900 and admission is just W200. If travelling by underground, take the blue line (No 4) to Seoul Racecourse (station No 53).
63 Building: The ‘Yuk-sam’ Building, as Koreans call it, in Yoido is Korea’s tallest building. It boasts a fun, but cramped aquarium and Seoul’s only Imax cinema. For W500 you can ride the glass elevator to the observatory deck. In the second and third weeks of Apr the adjacent Riverside Park is crowded with cherry blossom pilgrims.
The COEX Urban Entertainment Complex: The mall, located in the basement of the COEX centre in Kangnam, opened in May 2000 and 
claims to be Asia’s largest indoor shopping and fun centre. In addition to clothing shops representing every Korean and international brand, there is a 16-screen multiplex cinema, a large English language bookstore, Korea’s largest aquarium and scenic walks past indoor gardens and waterfalls. 
The Chongdong Theatre in Chongno: Nightly shows offer the best crash course in Korean traditional dance and music going. Shows start at 2000 and for the encore they let the audience get in on the act. The theatre operates a shuttle service to major hotels as well.
Shopping      Boka hyrbilar hela världen online -           Queensway Travel
Seoul’s best bargains include semi-precious stones such as smoky topaz and amethysts, furs, leather goods and luggage, sportswear and sporting goods, antiques and reproductions of traditional Korean furniture, ginseng, watches and accessories, ceramics, Korean arts and crafts, paintings and calligraphy, wall hangings and writing materials. 
Tongdaemun Market covers a ten-block area near the East Gate and specializes in silks, leather ware, clothing, and fresh fish and veg. It attracts the young with its two superb 24 hr indoor flea markets, which sponsor frequent outdoor pop concerts and fashion shows. Tongdaemun comes alive during the wee small hours (it is open all night) and closes only from 0800-1200 for restocking and Sun. 
Namdaemun Market is Korea’s largest general wholesale market and is just a few minutes’ walk from Seoul’s ancient South Gate (Sungnyemun or Namdaemun). Its proximity to the downtown area and many top hotels makes it popular among foreign visitors. More than 1,250 shops and stalls line the alleyways of the 10-acre area, selling, among other things, vegetables, clothes, tableware, crafts, fresh-cut flowers and ginseng. Since each small shop does its own manufacturing, prices can be 10-20% lower than in other shopping areas. Tongdaemun (East Gate) is the original east gate of the ancient city wall. The public market sprawls east, west and south of Tongdaemun and offers a variety of clothing and household bargains. 
To browse local antiques and replicas, stop by the Changan Antique Market, open Sun from 1000 to 2000. It’s near the Shindap exit on underground line No 2.Insa-dong, near the centre, is a popular street for antiques, too. It is also home to a wide range of art galleries, book shops, traditional tea houses and restaurants.
Itaewon, near the US army base, consist of dozens of little alleys shooting out into a maze of underground shops. Here you’ll find brand-name specialty shops like Reebok and Nike, as well as discounted designer label outlets. This popular spot for bargain shoppers and entertainment seekers also caters well to the antique seeker, with numerous shops specialising in Korean art and calligraphy. An abundance of fast-food restaurants, coffee shops, small bars, discos and cafés fill in the gaps along almost 2 km of road. 
Yongsan Market is a huge complex of electronic shops with prices 20%-50% lower than normal. Located in Yongsan-Gu (Yongsan Ward) near the US Army base, it is clearly marked on any city map. The massive new E-mart electronics market in Kangnam across from the East Seoul Bus Terminal with a flashy new building and better restaurants and coffee shops has stolen some of Yongsan’s thunder. But Yongsan is still the place for computer components and is more foreigner-friendly.
Kyongdong Market is the country’s centre for Oriental medicine, selling the ingredients and herbs. Changanpyong is an extensive antique market, with about 150 stores selling earthenware, celadon porcelain, antique furniture, lacquerware and paintings. For precise details on how to get to these markets either ask in your hotel or consult a city map. 
Myongdong is notable for several large department stores and is practically a private shopping mall for Japanese tourists. Stop by at the new National Tourism Souvenir Shop, which is light years away from the tacky trinket dealers you find on the streets of Itaewon. The staff are more professional than in the shops in Insadong. This is the place to buy a Korean gift that would impress a Korean. Seoul’s trendiest neighbourhood is Apkujong-Dong, where you’ll overload on designer labels, including the Christian Dior, Giorgio Armani, Gucci and Chanel boutiques. 
Don’t be seduced by stories of cheap booty to be picked up in the fallout from the Asian recession. Prices have climbed back up to former levels with the recovery in full swing. So-called IMF sales are ancient history to forward-looking Seoulites. 
Some useful shopping tips: 
• English is spoken in some major department stores and in all of the Itaewon shopping district. 
• Although many shops use the fixed price system, you may have the chance to bargain in some shops and in many of the outlets found in Itaewon and the large open-air markets. It’s easier to bargain with cash (US dollars are a good idea, but check the exchange rate) and traveller’s cheques. 
• About 100 retail outlets have so far registered with Korea’s tax refund system. A ‘VAT refund cheque’ can be issued for purchases over W50,000 from shops with a ‘tax-free shopping’ sign. To receive your cash remuneration, present your cheque (and the goods!) at either the customs desk or the Global refund counter at Inchon Airport, as you leave. 
• Try on all tailored clothing before making the final payment. Alterations are easy to negotiate on the spot. 
• Remember that antiques such as chests and paintings cannot be exported without permission. Shop owners can provide the necessary information, or you can telephone the Art and Antique Assessments Office. 
• Keep your receipt! The Korea National Tourism Organisation manages a Tourist Complaint Centre, which investigates shopping complaints. 
Where to walk
Seoul is not very pedestrian-friendly, but a visitor with a few hours to kill can cover quite a bit of ground. Begin at the visitor’s information centre at City Hall and take the pedestrian underpass beneath the roundabout to Toksu Palace. After a stroll through the landscaped gardens, walk north on Taepyongno, past the Anglican church, British embassy, Sejong Cultural Centre, up to Kwanghwamun Gate, behind which is Kyongbok Palace. Browse through the Folk Museum within the palace grounds, then head east to the Anguk-dong intersection, down Insadong road, past the antique shops and traditional tea houses. At the end of the road on the left is Tapkol (Pagoda) Park, where locals sit and feed the pigeons or play paduk, an ancient Chinese board game. Stroll through the park and come out on Chongno, where two blocks west is Poshin-gak, a large bell that used to 
signal the opening and closing of the city gates, but is now sounded only on New Year’s Eve. Walking along the river is one of Seoul’s most underrated experiences. The government’s efforts to clean up the waters have been so successful that in recent years even fishing has returned. There are ten parks at various points along the river, the most popular ones being at Yoido and Chamsil. For more information from the Han River Management Office. Remember, traffic drives on the right, and cars don’t always stop for zebra crossings. Another potential problem is the habit of motorbikes using the pavements. Keep your ears and eyes open. 
Weather and Climate
Korea has four distinct seasons. Spring (Mar-Jun) and autumn (Sep-Nov) are pleasant but short. Summers (Jul-Aug) are hot and humid. Winters (Dec-Feb) are usually not too severe, though snowfalls are regular. The rainy season runs from the end of Jun to late Jul.