City Information
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Travel
Airport
Seattle-Tacoma (or Sea-Tac) International Airport is 23 km south of
the city. Flight time from London is just over 9 hrs. Within the
airport are a dozen or so gift shops, almost 20 restaurants and
coffee shops, half a dozen bars, as well as the usual cash machines,
currency exchange and business centres.
Airport
to City Centre
Cabs wait on ranks on the upper level of the terminal or can be
ordered via Yellow Cab. The half-hour trip into the centre costs
about $30. The Shuttle Express operates between Sea-Tac and anywhere
in the city, while Grayline Airport Express buses link Sea-Tac to
most of the major Downtown hotels. Metro Transit operates two bus
services, Nos 174 and 194, between Sea-Tac and Downtown Seattle.
They can be picked up at the Lower Roadway baggage claim, Bay 1.
Single trips are $2.00 during peak hours and $1.50 off peak. Bus 194
is the Express to Downtown and makes five stops in the Downtown
tunnel stations, while Bus 174 is about 15 minutes slower, makes
more intermittent stops and terminates at 9th and Stewart
Downtown.
Orientation
Central Seattle lies on a narrow shard of land between the
freshwater Lake Washington to the east and the saltwater Elliott Bay
– Puget Sound – on the west, about 160 km south of the border
with Canada. The compact Downtown area is at the centre of 228 sq
km. The majority of sights and attractions are located Downtown and
are easily accessible by foot. The Downtown area is in the centre of
the city and served by the north-south running Interstate 5 (I-5),
which wends its way up from Mexico to the Canadian border, and the
east-west Interstate 90 (I-90), which can take you from Seattle to
Boston. Pioneer Sq is the oldest part of Seattle and the basis of
the city’s cultural heritage. In recent years, it has been
transformed into a fin de siècle showpiece, interspersed with
fashionable boutiques and art galleries. Downtown has spread north
along the waterfront and is now the main dining and entertainment
district, as well as the city’s hotel corridor and financial hub.
Pike Place Market, standing sentinel over Elliott Bay, is the place
from which to take your bearings. Belltown, north of the central
district, is a rehabbed industrial neighbourhood teeming with trendy
eateries and lively nightspots. Seattle Center, with its landmark
Space Needle, and the residential area of Queen Anne, are just
beyond, while the alternative boutiques, galleries and coffee houses
of Capitol Hill to the north-east add a bit of spice. The
residential neighbourhood of Wallingford, further north, is replete
with laid-back charm and casual shops along N 45th St and nearby
Green Lake, a favoured jogging and biking spot. Addresses are
clarified by the all-revealing N, S, E or W prefix, with streets
running east-west and numbered avenues north-south. Seattle’s
population stood at 563,374 at the beginning of 2000, ranking it
24th in size among U.S. cities.
Getting
Around
Metro Transit provides a quick, frequent and clean bus service with
low fares, currently $1.25-2. Taxi cabs rank up outside most hotels
and landmarks, and can also be hailed on the street. Yellow Cab, Far
West Taxi and Orange Cab are the major names if you want to book
ahead or be picked up. The Seattle Center is served by the Seattle
Center Monorail, offering a speedy 90-second ride to its Downtown
terminus at the Westlake Center every 15 mins. The Waterfront
Streetcar, although mainly used by tourists, is a sheer delight for
anyone, offering as it does an atmospheric ride between the
waterfront area and Pioneer Sq, with several stops along the way.
Seattle was the first US city to introduce a free park and ride
programme Downtown. Metro’s Free Ride service operates between
0500 and 1900 within the central 144 city blocks, which are bounded
by Bell St, S Jackson St, Alaskan Way and Sixth Ave. Light traffic
and clean air make Seattle a wonderful city for cycling, jogging and
roller-blading. Consequently, it comes as no surprise that there are
some lovely routes for all three sports around Green Lake and along
the 20-km
Burke-Gilman trail. In addition, the Myrtle Edwards trail, along
Seattle’s Downtown waterfront, makes for a scenic workout area.
Gregg’s Green Lake Cycle Center rents out bikes per day or week
from 7007 Woodlawn Ave, NE; alternatively, Blazing Saddles Bike
Rentals is more centrally located at 1230 Western Ave.
What
to see
Pike Place Market: Known by locals as the ‘soul of
Seattle’, the oldest continuously operating farmers’ market in
the country was built in 1907 and saved from demolition in the 70s.
Today, the entire area along First Ave between Pike St and Virginia
St is a vivid canvas of fruit and vegetable vendors, fishmongers,
spice merchants, flower stalls, arts and crafts shops and ethnic
canteens. There are also excellent seafood eateries on the harbour
front and dozens of quaint old places to enjoy strong Seattle coffee
and a sugary pastry. Read All About It is the Market’s
international news stand – if they don’t carry it, it’s
nowhere in town. When Seattle-ites need a place to meet, they do it
under the Market’s imposing clock, a neon orb which has been
ticking away since the 20s.
Pioneer Square: The core of historic Seattle has numerous
buildings dating back to the gold rush of the 1890s. Today, the
Square has been developed into a high-ceilinged centre containing
bookshops, restaurants, art galleries, outdoor cafés and trendy
boutiques. An Underground Tour takes visitors to see the old city
many street levels below, as well as Klondike Gold Rush National
Park, which outlines the feverish impact the discovery of gold had
on the region. Come night time, the entire area comes alive to the
strains of jazz, blues and dance music emanating from the
neighbourhood’s myriad clubs and music venues.
Seattle Art Museum: This is one of the largest showcases of
art in the US, with a lovely park aspect and fine views. The museum
is best known for its first-rate collection of African, Asian and
Northwest Coast Native American art. If you want to learn more about
the indigenous Indians of the area, a regular programme of films and
lectures is scheduled in the adjoining auditorium. Snacks are
available at the museum’s café and you can purchase mementoes in
the well-stocked shop. Open daily 1000-1700 except Mon. 100
University St. Benaroya Hall, the new home of Seattle’s symphony
orchestra, is an architectural showpiece located a block from the
museum.
Seattle Center: This 74-acre urban park to the north-west of
Downtown was the site of the 1962 World’s Fair. It has since been
converted to an expansive hi-tech complex of conference centres,
theatres, an amusement park, sports arena, food hall, opera house
and the Pacific Science Center. Most notable, however, is the Space
Needle, the symbol of the city, which soars majestically over the
skyline and contains two revolving restaurants, an observation deck
and private banquet facilities. The Space Needle recently received a
$20 million facelift, with the most significant improvement being a
redesign of the observation deck to allow an unobstructed, 360°
view of the city. Also new to the Seattle Center is the Experience
Music
Project, an interactive, hi-tech music museum that is Microsoft
co-founder Paul Allen’s homage to rock ‘n’ roll and other
American musical forms. The building, designed by renowned architect
Frank Gehry – most famous for the Guggenheim in Bilbao – is a
series of multi-coloured, curving metallic plates that is well worth
the price of admission before you even step in the door.
Waterfront: The fishermen’s nets and pallets of old have
long since been replaced by new service businesses and harbour tour
operators selling passage from their offices in long-abandoned
warehouses. Alaskan Way, the waterfront promenade, stretches for
almost two miles between Piers 48 and 70 and offers excellent
walking, biking, a smattering of touristy shops and a variety of
cafés and restaurants. If time permits, take the Washington State
Ferry from the terminal at Pier 52 to the islands. Once you get
there, do some bird-watching or simply relax and soak up the
delightful views.
Shopping
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The recently renovated Westlake Center at 400 Pine St is the biggest
shopping mall in town. Here you will find several dozen fashion
boutiques, accessory shops, restaurants and antique stores as well
as underground access to Nordstrom and the Bon Marché. Seattle
stalwart Nordstrom has moved across the street to the old Frederick
and Nelson building and is now offering nearly 400,000 sq ft of the
finest fashions and accessories. Originally a shoe store, Nordstrom
is still the place to go for footwear of all kinds, plus additional
perks of a doorman, two restaurants, a day spa, shoe museum, aquaria
in the children’s department and a family restroom. It’s the
largest store in the now-national Nordstrom chain. Downtown’s Pine
St corridor is experiencing a shopping renaissance.
In addition to Nordstrom and Pacific Place, new players are Old
Navy, Niketown, Eileen Fisher, Steven Spielberg’s Gameworks and
two multi-screen cinemas. The Pacific Place shopping area opened at
Seventh and Pine in late 1998. Five levels of high-end shopping with
the likes of Tiffany and Co, Cartier and Restoration Hardware whet
the palate and lighten the pocketbook. The complex also features
four restaurants (including Stars and Il Fornaio) and an 11-screen
cinema.
First and Second Ave Downtown are replete with cutting-edge fashion
boutiques, art galleries and purveyors of fine interior design. Pike
Place Market is the place for arts and crafts, fresh foods and
hand-made goods. Also in the Market area are Sur La Table (a gadget
heaven for cooks), Le Panier for warm French bread and Dilettante
Chocolates for the best truffles in town.
The Washington State Convention and Trade Center was recently
expanded to double its previous size by building across Pike Street.
A 90ft-wide glass exhibition bridge connects the old and new spaces,
and frames the view of shimmering Elliott Bay in the distance.
Several new restaurants and cafés are also part of the revamp. The
new Museum of History and Industry is close by and an ancillary part
of this project.
Where
to walk
An ideal Seattle stroll begins with an early morning visit to Read
All About It, the international news stand at First and Pike. Pick
up your favourite read and proceed to Café Campagne, a block away
at the Inn at the Market. The French breakfast and robust coffee
will fortify you for your journey through the warren of shops and
stalls that is Pike Place Market. Turn down quaint Post Alley to get
to the Market, beginning your exploration by entering under the
Market’s signature neon clock. Hawkers will beckon from every
corner, selling everything from fresh fish to jewellery and
home-made jams. Once you’ve seen it all, follow the ‘Elevators
Down’ sign for several levels and exit the Market on Western
Ave.
By taking the Pike St Hillclimb stairs straight down, you’ll reach
the waterfront along Alaskan Way. Directly in front of you will be
the Seattle Aquarium. Stop in, if you’d like, or head to your
right and take in the view of vast Elliott Bay. At the next corner,
turn right and head up a series of small steps directly ahead,
returning to Western Ave, then proceed left along Western and stop
at Virginia Ave. You’re now at Victor Steinbrueck Park, which
offers yet another lovely view of the Bay and waterfront, along with
its two totem poles evoking the spirit of the Pacific
Northwest.
Head up Virginia St to First Ave, then turn left. You’re now in
the chic Belltown district, a collection of trendy boutiques, hair
salons and eateries as up-market as anywhere. Turn right on Wall St
and go up to Second Ave, go right again and make your way to the
Downtown district. Back in the city centre, head left on Pine St and
up to Fifth Ave for the city’s shopping gulch. Westlake Center,
Nordstrom and the city centre shops all vie for your attention along
with towering skyscrapers and elegant hotels. Will you shop or will
you walk? If you opt for walking, continue along Fifth to
University, where the Four Seasons Olympic, grande dame of the
city’s hotels, will come into view. Step inside and rest your feet
for a few moments in the hotel’s sumptuous lobby. If you need a
quick pick-me-up, head back outside and grab a cup of coffee at one
of the many Starbucks coffee houses in the area.
Continuing down University, you’ll see the new Benaroya Hall, home
to Seattle’s symphony orchestra, at Third Ave. The Seattle Art
Museum, or ‘SAM’ to the locals, is further down at First Ave,
where Jonathan Borofsky’s sculpture, The Hammering Man, towers
over the gawking crowds. Turn left onto First Ave and enjoy the many
well-maintained older buildings along this street. Crossing Cherry,
you’re in the heart of Pioneer Square – it’s old Seattle and
the charm still lingers, over a century later. Once at S Main St,
you’ve reached the Elliott Bay Book Company, the city’s premier
bookstore. Pick up a good read and, exiting the store, head right on
S Main to Occidental Ave S. Yet another right will take you to
Torrefazione Italia, a charming café on a pedestrian thoroughfare
where the outdoor tables are the coveted seats. Sit back, relax and
read for a
while. When you’re ready to go back to the city centre, hop onto
the historic Waterfront Streetcar and ask the conductor for Stop 6,
which will leave you down the hill from the Pike Place Market.
You’re only steps away from where you started. This roughly
three-mile walk is only moderately hilly and a great way to start
your Seattle day.