City Information
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Queensway
Travel
Airport
São Paulo’s international airport is located in neighbouring
Guarulhos, 18km from the city centre. Locals customarily refer to it
simply as ‘Guarulhos’. Flight time to London is roughly 11hrs 30
mins. It’s a stereotypical international airport with the usual
overpriced restaurant and reasonably-stocked buffet, a host of
fast-food places, a run-of-the-mill bookshop that stocks
international newspapers and magazines, a post office, an outpost of
the local telecommunications company Telesp, a pharmacy, etc.
Information desks are clearly marked and centrally located.
Airport
to City Centre
The most convenient way to get into town is by taxi. Three separate
cab companies operate from kiosks near the disembarking area. Fares
vary by destination. The average is about R$50. One firm, the only
one which accepts credit cards, charges slightly more. In normal
traffic, the trip into town takes 40-50 mins. The Airport Bus
Service is less expensive and quite comfortable, though waits of 20
mins or so are common until the next scheduled departure.
Orientation
São Paulo is a sprawling city reminiscent of Mexico City or Los
Angeles. There are virtually no natural landmarks. Statues and
architectural gems tend to be overwhelmed by high-rises and
expressways. The city sports four ‘downtowns’. The old centre,
appropriately named the Centro, still houses the judiciary and
related institutions, including the main law courts and an
internationally renowned law school. Many law firms have offices
here, although some have moved away to be nearer their clients.
There are few important businesses here, a notable exception being
Bank Boston, a leading sponsor of a downtown revitalisation project
named ‘Viva o Centro.’ The stock market, Bovespa, is also here
along with an old Italian neighbourhood and the Asian
district.
A short drive to the south-west is the second ‘downtown’ area of
Avenida Paulista, Brazil’s best-known business drag. Once lined by
mansions owned by coffee barons, the street now houses the powerful
state industrial federation FIESP, Citicorp’s Brazilian
headquarters, and the high-rise that the British Consulate calls
home. Avenida Paulista is also known for the São Paulo Art Museum (MASP)
and, across the street, a wooded park called Trianon. Near the
Avenida Paulista is the smart Jardins district, with its high
concentration of fine stores, restaurants, bars and coffee shops.
Further south-east is Avenida Faria Lima, home to many of the
headquarters of foreign investment banks, like Flemings, that are
increasing their presence in Brazil. Adjacent to the Avenida Faria
Lima are the Pinheiros and Vila Madelena neighbourhoods, currently
the ‘in’ places for São Paulo’s rambunctious nightlife.
South of Faria Lima, the final downtown flares out from Avenida
Berrini. This region sports the new World Trade Center and dozens of
other new skyscrapers. One building, called ‘Robo Cop’ because
of its futuristic facade, counts many leading international
advertising agencies as tenants. Nearby, a bit further south, many
multinational companies have established their Brazilian
headquarters in a district called Santo Amaro. Across the Pinheiros
River from Avenida Berrini is the Morumbi neighbourhood, home of the
governor’s mansion and Morumbi Stadium, the city’s most
important football arena.
There are three main traffic arteries. Two, the Marginal Tietê and
the Marginal Pinheiros, were originally designed as a mini-ring
road, but the city long ago overran them. They take their titles
from the polluted rivers they follow, and the term ‘marginal’
comes from the fact that they run along the margins of the rivers.
The Pinheiros runs north-south, the Tietê runs east-west. The
expressways, like the rivers, meet in the north-eastern corner of
town. The other main expressway, called 23 de maio, runs south from
downtown to the domestic airport, Congonhas.
Excursions
For a quick day trip, there’s Embu, about 27km outside of town. On
Sunday people flock to the crafts fair that invades the city
streets. ‘Naive’ folkloric painters also set up stalls to sell
their work. To the north-west and south-west, the ‘interior’
offers a smattering of cities known for their thermal spas,
ranch-hotels and colonial architecture. When they get out of town,
though, most Paulistanos head for the beach, called the Litoral
Norte, with its string of seaside hotels and attractions. One of the
more upmarket towns is Maresias. A bit further north, just across
the border in Rio de Janeiro state, is Paraty – a littoral
colonial town overlooking a calm bay dotted with islands.
Getting
Around
Taxis are the most efficient form of transportation, especially for
newcomers. The underground system, called the Metrô, is clean, safe
and efficient – but wholly inadequate. Rarely are business
travellers lucky enough to find successive meetings scheduled along
the Metrô line. Buses run frequently to virtually all city
destinations, but they are often over-crowded, especially during
rush hour. Business people – even locals – rarely use them.
Regular taxis can be hailed in the street. Commercial and office
districts are dotted with pavement ‘taxi stops’. Taxis can also
be booked by telephone. The fare starts at R$3.20, then R$0.80 every
km. Nights (after 2000) and weekends drivers add a 20% surcharge
called ‘Bandeira 2’. The surcharge is calculated automatically
by the meter. Some ‘radio taxis’ – including, in many cases,
those hailed by hotel staff – charge higher fares. The Metrô
operates from 0500 to midnight, seven days a week. Ticket windows,
located inside each station, close at 2230. A one-way ticket costs
R$1.25 and a renewable 10-trip ticket is R$10. The subway most
adequately serves commuters in the Zona Leste (East Zone) who work
in more central parts of the city. The short line that serves
Avenida Paulista is sometimes a good option to get between meetings
on or near that street.
What
to see
Art Galleries: Top-notch galleries offer a sampling of the best of
Brazilian contemporary art. In keeping with its entrepreneurial
spirit, São Paulo is a city where the best commercial galleries
outshine the museums. Paulista galleries represent virtually all
Brazil’s top artists. The only Rio de Janeiro gallery to rival
those in São Paulo has now shifted its main operation to São
Paulo. Galleries tend to be concentrated in the Jardins and
Pinheiros-Vila Madelena districts.
Parks: Parque do Ibirapuera – São Paulo’s ‘Central Park’
– is a favourite site for jogging, cycling, strolling and
impromptu games of soccer, volleyball and basketball. Free open-air
concerts take place in the Praça da Paz on Sunday morning. The park
houses the Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM), the Bienal Pavilion (home of
a biannual international art extravaganza), and a planetarium.
Parking is difficult at the weekend.
Horto Florestal (Cantareira): São Paulo is so well-known for its
urban density that visitors often refuse to believe that this nature
reserve lies within city limits. Trails weave through a dense
Atlantic rain forest, where observant visitors may spot groups of
monkeys.
Parque Burle Marx: A renowned Brazilian landscape artist, the late
Burle Marx, left his mark here along with his name. It is a quiet
spot where sports and picnics are prohibited. There’s a small lake
and several trails through wooded areas.
Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP) (São Paulo Art Museum): Latin
America’s most important museum of western art is housed in a
modernist building designed by architect Lina Bo Bardi and built in
1968. Launched by newspaper magnate Assis Chateaubriand in 1947, the
MASP was originally housed in a mansion on the same site. The
permanent collection runs from Rembrandt and Picasso to Brazilian
modernists like Portinari.
Museu de Arte Moderna (Modern Art Museum): The museum’s collection
includes work by leading Brazilian modernists like Tarsila do Amaral
and Anita Malfatti. Revolving exhibits by major Brazilian and
international artists. Av Pedro Álvares Cabral.
Instituto Butantan: Museu Biologico (Butantan Institute –
Biological Museum). The Butantan Institute is one of Latin
America’s most important centres for the research of serums and
vaccines. It is notable for its work on snake bites. The museum
sports a respectable collection of snakes.
Museu de Arte Sacra (Museum of Religious Art): The museum sports
artefacts from Brazilian Catholic Churches dating back to the 16c.
Museu Paulista do Ipiranga (Paulista Museum of Ipiranga): Located in
an imposing structure built in 1895, the museum was launched as a
tribute to Brazilian independence. It features artefacts, like
furniture and clothing, that provide a glimpse into the life and
customs of Brazilians since 1850.
Pinoteca do Estado: Recently reformed, the building dates back to
1905. The permanent collection features leading Brazilian modernists
like Di Cavalcanti and Lasar Segall. The Pinoteca hosted a
blockbuster show of Rodin’s sculptures in 1995.
Shopping
Before the ‘malling’ of Brazil, São Paulo was noted as a city
of diverse shopping districts, where concentrations of shops
featuring various types of products catered to eager consumers.
Remnants of this layout can still be found in places like Teodoro
Sampaio street in the Pinheiros district, known for its furniture
outlets, and the Jardins district still features a snappy collection
of shops selling designer clothing and other upmarket articles. For
most purchases, though, locals head to their favourite shopping
mall, which they refer to simply as the ‘shopping’. They’re
designed and stocked along international lines, and foreign visitors
might forget they’re on the road.
At the weekend, the city sports a myriad of open-air antique and
craft fairs: MASP Antique Fair, Av Paulista 1578; Trianon Art and
Culture Fair, Av Paulista, across the street from the MASP. Bixiga
Art and Antique Fair (Sat 1000-1800); Praça d Orione Liberdade
Crafts Fair – Asian and Brazilian style articles; Praça Liberdade
Benedito Calixto Crafts and Antiques Fair.
Where
to walk
Though major streets bustle with throngs of people, most actually
walk but a short distance. True pedestrians are rare in São Paulo.
Yet the best way to explore some neighbourhoods, particularly the
downtown Centro, is on foot. Ex-pat association The American Society
runs organised guided walking tours of the Centro.
A good starting point for any downtown walk is Liberdade, the Asian
district. Residents and shop-owners are predominantly of Japanese
descent, but the red lamp posts, the arch on Rua Galvão Bueno and
the gardens are hardly spontaneous expressions of cultural identity.
They are part of a deliberate attempt launched almost three decades
ago to convert São Paulo’s Asian district into a tourist
attraction. In 1974, local merchants completed a scheme to spruce
the place up, and the plan included a requirement that shops sport
signs in native script as well as Portuguese.
Nearby is the noteworthy Metropolitan Cathedral in the Praça da Sé,
the city’s geographical centre. The tramps that linger in the pews
can throw off quite a stench, but the church is still worth a brief
visit. Further on are pedestrian walkways that lead to the old
banking district. The old downtown still houses the stock exchange,
Bovespa, and the futures exchange. The Jesuit mission site where the
city was founded in 1554 can also be found nearby, including a
wonderful Benedictine monastery. A bridge above a thoroughfare leads
to the Teatro Municipal, downtown shopping streets open only to
pedestrians, and the Praça da Republica.
Weather
and Climate
Sub-tropical and generally mild, although significant, though not
wild, swings in temperature are common. There is little rain during
the winter and sometimes it’s cold enough to require a
medium-heavy jacket or overcoat, but the dry winter weather combines
with the high concentration of cars to produce world-class levels of
smog during the season. The state government combats winter air
pollution with a rotating once-a-week ban on the circulation of each
automobile. Drivers must leave their cars in the garage on one
weekday, the day is determined by the last digit of their licence
plates. The summer brings hot and sunny weather during the day,
often followed by heavy downpours around nightfall. Thanks to
inadequate infrastructure, flooding is common in many areas.
Micro-climate changes due to urban development have reduced this
phenomenon considerably.
At
a glance
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Queensway
Travel
The neighborhood of Brooklin earned its name when the city of São
Paulo bought a batch of mothballed trolley cars from the city of New
York. Embossed on the car that took the tracks to a then-distant
district on the outskirts of town was the name of the borough it
once served: Brooklyn. German immigrants congregated in the Brooklin
neighborhood. It maintains a high concentration of German
restaurants and organizes an annual Oktoberfest. The notorious Nazi
‘Angel of Death’ Josef Mengele allegedly hung out with friends
in the neighborhood.
The downtown Italian neighbourhood Bixiga boasts a strong samba
tradition. As in Rio de Janeiro, clubs called samba schools organise
São Paulo’s annual carnival parade and compete for the top prize
awarded by judges. Thanks in part to the samba school Vai Vai, many
of São Paulo’s most famous ‘sambistas’ – like Pato N’Agua
(literally, Duck in the Water) – have frequented the area over the
years. Following the abolition of slavery in 1888, many poor black
people established themselves in ‘cortiços’ – cramped
tenement buildings where whole families live in single rooms. The
cross-cultural influence was so thorough, said film-maker and
theatre director Emilio Fontana, himself a Bixiga native, that he
remembers hearing the black community speaking Portuguese with
Italian accents. The influence worked the other way as well, and the
musical miscegenation gave birth to
something called Italian Samba. The father was Adoniran Barbosa,
who, though he played samba, built a reputation for emphasising both
his São Paulo roots and his Italian influence, putting on a heavy
accent and deliberately working into his lyrics the grammatical
errors common to Italian immigrants.
Morro dos Ingleses (English Hill) is a downtown hill and street (Rua
dos Ingleses) named in tribute to early British ex-pats. The hill
still provides possibly the best natural view of old downtown São
Paulo. Around the turn of the century the city’s British community
installed their golf course on that piece of high ground. Few Brits
lived in the vicinity, but a road (now called Brigadeiro Luis
Antonio) ran back to their ex-pat sanctuary, the Santo Amaro, where
local boys used to collect balls
that the less accurate British golfers skewed into the rough. What
started as a shoe box collection soon became big business. Given the
elevated costs of importing balls from England, golfers with high
handicaps – who tended to lose their balls more often – began
offering the youngsters cold, hard Contas do Rei (then the local
currency) to get them back. Eventually, the golf course fell to
urban development. Leading families of the period built homes there,
people like ‘Coffee King’ Geremias Lunardelli, ‘Flour King’
Giulio Parente, ‘Mr Hat’ Ramenzoni, and the multi-talented Maluf
family who, among other things, produced former mayor Paulo Maluf.
For a few months each year, São Paulo rivals New York, Paris and
Rome as the capital of the art world. Running from October-December
in even numbered years, the São Paulo Biennial features
contemporary art from around the globe. Besides heavy doses of
leading contemporary art, the 1998 edition included an impressive
collection of works from consecrated historical figures like Van
Gogh, Francis Bacon and surrealist master Magritte. Second in
longevity among the growing legions of international artistic
mega-events, the ‘Bienal’ ranks up there with the aforementioned
Italian affair and Germany’s quadrennial Documenta as one of the
world’s most prestigious gatherings. The denizens of the
international art world were
among the 1.5 million visitors in 1998.
Like New York, São Paulo is the name of both the state and its most
important city. Unlike New York, São Paulo city is also capital of
São Paulo state. Natives of the state are called ‘Paulistas’.
Natives of the city are called ‘Paulistanos’.