City Information
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Airport
Santiago’s Arturo Merino Benitez Airport is located 25km from the
city centre in the suburb of Pudahuel. Flight time from London is
16hrs, including a stopover. The international terminal is currently
undergoing a massive expansion and renovation programme, to be
completed in December 1999, with further projects and a control
tower scheduled for 2001. Money changing facilities are located in
the baggage reclaim area of arrivals. There is a large food court in
departures, gift shops and a duty-free store.
Airport to City Centre
The taxi ride from the airport to downtown Santiago takes between 30
min and 1 hr, depending on traffic. The metered taxi fare should
cost about $15. It is not customary to tip. Alternatively, the
Delfos and Transfer companies provide a shuttle minibus service from
the airport to destinations throughout Santiago, costing from $5 to
downtown to up to $12 for points further out. Cheaper still is Tour
Express, which depart regularly from outside the terminal between
0615 and 0030 and drop passengers at its downtown offices at Moneda
and San Martin streets for about $2. All operators are clearly
marked and depart from outside the terminal.
Orientation
Santiago is a modern metropolis of some 5 million inhabitants,
accounting for more than a third of Chile’s 14 million population.
The commercial and business district stretches from the downtown
area – where the remaining Colonial architecture has been dwarfed
by gleaming glass skyscrapers – east through the ever-expanding
Providencia and Las Condes sections. The entertainment area of
Bellavista is squeezed between downtown and Providencia. Santiago is
encircled by the Avenida Americo Vespucio. The main commercial
corridor is the Alameda, also known as Avenida Libertador Bernardo
O’Higgins. East of the downtown in Providencia it changes names to
Avenida Providencia in the west-bound lanes and Avenida 11 de
Septiembre in the east-bound lanes. Further east in Las Condes, the
Alameda becomes Avenida Apoquindo. North of the Alameda are Avenida
Santa Maria and Avenida Andres Bello, running north and south of the
Mapocho River respectively. Andres Bello changes name to Avenida
Vitacura, while Santa Maria merges into Avenida Presidente Kennedy.
Both are major Las Condes thoroughfares and can provide a quicker
artery to Providencia than the Alameda. Most government offices are
in the downtown area, along with many business headquarters.
Increasingly, however, companies are relocating to Providencia and
Las Condes, home to Santiago’s most upscale residential
neighborhoods.
Excursions
Some of Chile’s key wine-making regions are located a short
distance from Santiago. Across Travels offers day-long tours to two
nearby vineyards as demand requires. Several other vineyards close
to the city are open to the public but will not provide
transportation: Undurraga, Concha y Toro and Santa Rita. Vina del
Mar, a Pacific resort city, and Valparaiso, an interesting port city
that also serves as the base for Chile’s Congress, are a 2-hr
drive from Santiago. Buses leave regularly from Santiago’s main
bus station to both cities.
Getting Around
Taxis and the metro system are the easiest way for the uninitiated
to get to grips with Santiago’s layout. Yellow and white public
buses, known as micros, are omnipresent and travel to all corners of
the city. Destination and principal stops are displayed in the front
window, and are best left to locals. The metro system comprises
three lines, confusingly numbered 1-5. Single tickets cost 25 cents
to 50 cents according to the time of day. More convenient is a
ticket primed with $4.25 of journeys, automatically reclaimed by the
ticket machines when the last fare is used. The east-west Line 1
(red on the map) runs from western Santiago underneath the Alameda
through the city centre to Providence and Las Condes, and serves all
the destinations of interest to the business traveler. Line 2
(yellow) connects the southern residential areas of Lo Ovalle with
downtown Santiago. Line 5 (green) runs north from the Baquedano
station, where downtown Santiago meets Providencia, through
residential areas to La Florida in the south. Taxis are easily
identifiable by their black body and yellow roof. They can be
flagged on almost any street and are metered. Tips are not
expected.
What to see
Santiago was founded at the foot of the Santa Lucia hill to the east
of the main downtown area – off Santa Lucia Street to the west,
the Alameda to the south and Subercaseaux Street to the east – and
is a popular spot for a good view of the city centre, albeit
shrouded in smog. At the top is a fortress, reached by foot or via
an elevator off Santa Lucia and Huerfanos. Pollution permitting, the
much larger San Cristobal Hill in Metropolitan Park provides a
broader vista over Santiago and the Andes to the east. The giant
statue of the Virgin of San Cristobal is located atop the hill, plus
there’s a zoo in the park. Take the funicular from just off Pio
Nono St in Bellavista, or the cable car based at Pedro de Validivia
Norte St. For walking and downtown people-watching, try Ahumada, a
pedestrian route that runs north from the Alameda to the Plaza de
Armas. Huerfanos, another pedestrian pathway, runs east-west through
the downtown area, intersecting with Ahumada.
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Serious shopping goes on behind the walls of the two most exclusive
malls, Alto Las Condes and Parque Arauco, both located in Las Condes.
Each mall contains a couple of department stores, 250 shops, cinemas
and a food court. For crafts, copper goods, lapis lazuli and other
artisans’ wares from throughout Chile try Graneros del Alba,
Apoquindo 9085, which collects some 200 shops and craft stands near
the Los Dominicos church in Las Condes. The pleasant atmosphere
resembles a mission-turned-craft fair. The Vitacura Handicrafts
Center also sells native handicrafts. Some department stores and
other shops are located downtown, as is the Santa Lucia Artisan
market – a bit tatty, but still a good centrally located place to
pick up Chilean crafts and knickknacks.
Where to walk
Take the metro to the Universidad de Chile and head for the big red
building to the east, the San Francisco church, where a colonial art
museum is located. In front is the Plaza San Francisco, with Londres
street to the south leading off to the Paris and Londres
neighbourhood, characterised by cobbled roads and buildings with
European-style facades. When you’ve had a wander, go back to the
San Francisco Plaza, and follow the Alameda to the east, past San
Isidro to the Santa Lucia artisan market. Full of makeshift stands,
it’s not the fanciest emporium in the world, but many Chilean
crafts and trinkets, T-shirts, copper knickknacks and tie-dyed
clothing, not to mention tattoos, can be had here. Back-tracking on
Alameda, cross the road at Santa Rosa to the north side of the
street and head east once again past the National Library. Carry
straight on across Miraflores St to the Santa Lucia hill, which can
be accessed by several paths and an elevator for a good view over
the downtown area and other points of the city.
Returning to Miraflores, go north to Agustinas and follow it west
past the Municipal Theater (Agustinas 794), home of the Santiago
Philharmonic Orchestra and the city’s ballet company. Continue to
the corner and turn north up San Antonio St to Merced St. Heading
west you’ll pass the Santiago Museum and one block later arrive at
the Plaza de Armas, the official city centre. The pavement cafés
aren’t the most elegant, but it’s a good place for lazy
people-watching.
After ducking into the Cathedral and National Historic Museum and
unloaded your postcards at the central post office, stroll up the
Ahumada, a pedestrian route on the west side of the plaza that
empties into the Central Market, about four blocks north of the
square. Fresh fruit, vegetable and seafood vendors ply their trade
in a packed, raucous atmosphere, and aggressive waiters try to
ensnare customers for ceviche and other seafood dishes.
Back-pedalling along Puente and Ahumada will bring you to Huerfanos,
another pedestrian zone a block past the Plaza de Armas. Look out
for the news-stand selling extortionate foreign newspapers on the
corner. Follow Huerfanos west a block to Bandera, turn north and go
on a block to the Museum of Pre-Columbian Art. Leaving the museum,
take Bandera south to Agustinas, turn west, go past the Chilean
Central Bank at the corner with Morande to the Plaza de la
Constitucion in front of La Moneda, the government palace. The
structure was partially destroyed by air attacks in the 1973 coup
that brought the former military government to power, but has since
been restored.
Weather and Climate
The spring/summer season lasts from October through March, with
a temperature range of about 7ºC-29ºC. Autumn/winter (Apr-Sept)
temperatures are only a few degrees lower, with averages of
3ºC-23ºC. Late autumn and winter are the wettest periods, while
late spring and summer are relatively dry.