City Information
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Airport
El Rahaba Airport is 3 miles north of Sana’a. Flight time from
London is 7 hours direct and up to 11 hours with stops en route.
Facilities are pretty thin on the ground, although there are basic
banking and exchange facilities, plus car hire. It is wise to take
US Dollars in cash. Travelers cheques can be changed in banks and
major hotels but cash is required for taxis and such like.
Orientation
Downtown Sana’a is the area south of Tahrir Square, between the
square itself and Az-Zubeiry St. Tahrir Square is the nerve centre
of the new city, the place from where tourist trips depart and
return. It is a bustling modern district of shops, hotels and
restaurants. On the south edge of the square stands the Military
Museum, while to the north, along Ali Abdul Mogni St, is the
National Museum. Most of the small townhouse hotels are clustered
along this street, as are some decent eateries and local cafés. The
Old City is a short distance south-east of downtown, the other side
of the saila, a long trough which regulates the seasonal floodwaters
between the old and newer regions. To get to the Old City by foot,
cross Ali Abdul Mogni St by the Tank and head east down
pedestrianised Bab Al Sabah St. After the An Nahrayn mosque, turn
right and cross the water channel via a stone overpass, known as the
Turkish bridge.
Getting Around
Taxis have yellow licence plates and black stripes and wait on ranks
outside the major hotels and terminals. Always fix the fare before
setting off – ask at the hotel what the price should be and
bargain from there. Taxis can be hired for half a day or a full day.
Make sure the driver knows how long he has to wait and do not forget
a small tip. Most taxi drivers, even those from the hotels, have
little idea of the layout of the city and are likely to get lost. To
compensate, ask your hotel for directions before setting off. Dababs
are minibuses which ply set routes in the city. Prices are fixed
between destinations and work out very reasonable. They stop where
you request and seem to be the favoured mode of transport for
locals.
What to see
Be aware that in many places you will be charged between YR50 and
YR100 to use your camera. This is often more than the admission
charge, so be selective about what you snap.
National Museum: Well laid out collections of bronze statues,
pre-Islamic history, maps, models and trading commodities dominate
the ground and first floors, while second and third floor reflect
traditional Islamic Yemeni life through examples of scripts and
carvings, coins and manuscripts, and life-size displays of
agricultural methods, pottery-making and fishing methods.
Military Museum: Macabre displays of instruments of torture
and photographs of executions during the revolution in 1967 are
eye-opening to say the least. Elsewhere, interesting displays of
weapons, projectiles, medals and uniforms are set out in halls,
depicting military styles through the centuries. Various peace-time
offerings include tombstones, rusty wheels from a wrecked train and
an example of a traditional horse-drawn carriage. Unfortunately,
most items are only labelled in Arabic. On leaving, note the
Imam’s bullet-holed Cadillac in the garden at the back.
Al Shahidayn Mosque: The name means ‘two martyrs’ and
refers to the murder of the baby sons of the Alid Governer by the
in-coming Umayyid Governer in about 650AD. The two bodies were
stored in a hammam which originally stood on the site and a tomb
near the entrance is thought to be that of the murderous governor.
The minaret was added in the late 19c, while pre-Islamic stones and
pillars were used in the original construction. Open daily, outside
prayer time, just north of the Great Mosque.
Rock Palace (Dar al-Hajar): Near the village of Beit Na’am,
30 minutes drive from the city, a handsome building stands out
against the blue sky and mountainous backdrop. This palace is the
most photographed sight in Yemen and is impressive for its
incredible position, perched high above the road on a sheer rock. It
was built for Imam Yahya in the thirties, with stunning rooms and
magnificent views from the roof.
Great Mosque (Al-Jama-al-Kabir): Built in the Kufic style
with 4 roofed galleries around a central courtyard, this mosque is
reckoned to be the oldest in the country, dating back to the prophet
Muhammed. Although little of the original edifice remains, various
renovations and enlargements during the 10c and 11c included the
magnificently ornate ceiling and twin minarets.
Qasr as-Silah Citadel: The oldest part of the city and the
site of a Sabataen fortress. Legend suggests the site dates back to
the Queen of Sheba. The site has been rebuilt and refortified
numerous times over the centuries, the last time by the Turks some
100 years ago. Today, it is still in military use and therefore out
of bounds. Off al-Lagiyah Square.
Shopping
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The shopping districts are Tahrir Square and the souks of the old
city. Dozens of modern shops around the square sell cheap Japanese
electronics as well as imported clothing and souvenirs. In the old
city, Souk al-Milh is the collective name of the 30 or so separate
markets that throng the area around the small square of Souk al-Baqr,
the central point of the old city. Within these crowded alleys one
can buy everything from shoes and tobacco to pottery and traditional
jambias. The jambia is to Yemen what the cricket bat is to the
British – a kind of cultural emblem synonymous with a nation. The
authentic version is a curved dagger with a handle made from rhino
or giraffe horn. Do not buy models with these handle as Britain
prohibits the importation of rhino and giraffe horn. These handles
can be worth hundreds of dollars to the collector. However, cheaper
versions of wood and plastic often look just as effective. Scabbards
are usually highly ornate, often made from silver and inscribed with
legends and insignia, while the blades are imported from the Far
East. Jewellery comes in many guises: necklaces, anklets, chokers,
rings, earrings, chest pieces, chains and bracelets can all be
picked up in the silver section of the souk or from the souvenir
shops in the New City. Most Yemeni jewellery is silver, though more
and more gold is coming onto the market. Items can be made to order
or purchased direct from vendors according to weight.
Where to walk
Like all ancient cities, Sana’a is a mixture of old and new. The
Old City is a unique area of townhouses, mosques and souks enclosed
by an ancient wall. It is dominated by the Citadel at its eastern
limit, the oldest part of the city and the nub of its defences –
indeed Sana’a means ‘fortified one’. Although the Citadel is
off limits, the area around it can be explored, as can the rest of
the Old City. Start from is Bab al-Yemen, the main gateway of the
city, and head north to the Great Mosque. Further on is the main
souk of Al-Baqr Square. From here, go along Daud St, past the
mosques of Daud, Tawus and Tulhah, into Tulhah St. Follow the street
until it reaches the saila which is navigated by a small stone
bridge. On reaching the other side, turn right down to Bab As-Sabah
St, then left towards the main road – Ali Abdul Mogni St – your
route back to Tahrir Square. Starting from the Bab al-Yemen, this
walk should take 2-3 hours. Precise details of the route are
unnecessary as it is impossible to avoid wandering down unnamed
streets or delving into hidden pockets. Indeed, perhaps the best way
to explore this fascinating enclave is to wander at will.
Weather and Climate
The coastal plain is hot, humid and dusty most of the year, with a
monsoon climate in summer (30C-40C) and temperatures of 20-30C in
winter; the midlands (Taiz and Ibb) is comfortable in winter and
warm in summer. The northern mountainous region, including Sana’a,
is cooler: 3ºC-25ºC in winter and 15ºC-33ºC in summer.