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Airport  
The main international airport is Leonardo da Vinci, on the coast, 30 km southwest of Rome by motorway. G.B. Pastine Airport, 14 km southeast of Rome.

Fiumicino has one domestic terminal (A) and two international ones (B and C). All three have banks (open from 0825-1335, 1510-1600). Apart from 2 hole-in-the-wall cash points, it has one bank, (open from 0830 to 1630 with a short lunch break, five days a week) 2 bureaux de change and a post office (five days a week). The left luggage service has been temporarily suspended for security reasons.

Conference facilities, including translation services and video-conferencing, are available in the Executive Centre at Terminal A, near gate 7. Tourist desks with information on hotels and transport are located at Terminals A and C. Around-the-clock first aid facilities are available at the international terminals.

Airport to City Transportation

The quickest and easiest way into town from Leonardo da Vinci is via the non-stop first-class train from the airport station, departing every 30 mins. It rattles you into Rome’s main railway station (Stazione Termini) in about 30 mins and costs e8.78. More frequent and cheaper (e4.65) is a stopping train to Fara Sabina that serves Rome’s subsidiary stations, but not Termini. To join Rome’s two-line underground network, go directly to Termini or take the stopping train to Ostiense and follow signs to the nearby Piramide station, or carry on until Tiburtina. Tickets for both trains are available from the ticket office, tobacconists and machines at Fiumicino station. There are also shuttle services from the airports now. Airport Shuttle offers a minibus service dropping (max) three couples at three different hotels. The price for 2 passengers is e29.50 and has to be booked one day ahead. Airport Connection offers a chauffeured service, and can cater for 1 to 52 people. Most of the chauffeurs speak English, and the car from the airport to hotel costs e39.00. The service is available 24hrs.

An average ride to or from Fiumicino or Ciampino costs around e38.50 depending on traffic and the time of day or night. Rates can increase by e1.40 for every bag, and e2.58 after 2200 (considered night rate). A higher tariff is applied outside the ring road. Heavy traffic can make the journey slow (up to 70 mins) and even pricier. Ignore obsequious pirates who accost new arrivals outside Customs, notorious for their wallet-slimming rip-offs. Stick to white licensed taxis lined up outside.

About The City

Rome has preserved its historic centre almost perfectly. Although Mussolini tried to inject some radical town planning between the wars, subsequent city rulers have tried to respect the urban choices made by Renaissance popes and princes. The River Tiber winds through the city and most centres of activity are to the east of it. The fashionable area in Rome is around Piazza Augusto Imperatore, by the Roman monument to the Emperor Augustus near the Tiber, and is where the local fashionistae flock. Campo de’Fiori can be dangerous, and consequently there are police vans in every corner, every night, and the situation is now under control. The best shops are found between Via del Corso and Spanish Steps. The area between the Vatican and the historical centre, called Prati, is a favourite shopping area with Romans and clued-up tourists, and also the main street, Via Cola di Rienzo. Rome’s archaeological centre home of the Colosseum and the Forums, is to the south of the city centre, while dead level on the other side of the river is Trastevere, a popular nightlife area and traditionally Rome’s bohemian left bank. Ironically, the Vatican is also on this side of the Tiber.

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In the city, taxis can be hailed, but the easiest way is to walk to the nearest taxi rank. If taxis are called for by phone, the meter is switched on at the time of departure from the rank. The meter charge starts at e2.33 during the day until 22.00 and e4.91 from 22.00 to 07.00. Taxi drivers are used to locals rounding off as a tip. White taxis are convenient, but beware of rogue drivers trying to make a fast buck. It’s often best – and quicker – to walk, particularly if you are exploring the compact historic centre where traffic is restricted.

What is Interesting

The Colosseum: The biggest monument to the bloodthirsty mobs of Imperial Rome. To inaugurate it in 80AD, some 5,000 African animals were butchered over 100 days. The maze of corridors and cells still remains, allowing visitors to see where the cages and the lift shafts for transporting slaves and gladiators into the arena once stood. The amphitheatre seated 45,000 with standing room for a further 10,000. Open daily 0900-1800, Sun till 1600.

San Clemente: Less well known, but still one of the most incredible churches in the world. Close to the Colosseum, run by Irish monks, it spans almost the entire history of Rome. The first level is emblazoned with dazzling medieval mosaics, the second is a very early Christian church at the time of the persecutions and the third is a cold and ancient Roman dwelling together with a pagan temple. Open daily 0900-1230, 1500-1800.

The Domus Aurea: The emperor Nero built this vast, fabulous ‘golden house’ as his own private palace. Buried and built upon by later emperors, the Domus Aurea was rediscovered in the 15c, but it is only recently that the newly-restored rooms have been open to the public. Booking essential (3974 9907). Open daily 0900-1700.

The Forums: Between the Colosseum and Piazza Venezia. The Forum on the left looking towards Piazza Venezia was the very hub of ancient Rome. Here stood the Senate, the law courts and various meeting places, visited by vestal virgins, orators and general layabouts. On the other side of the road are the later, grandiose Imperial Forums, symbols of the Empire’s conquest of the world. Open 0900-1600, Sun 0900-1300. Entrance free.

Piazza di Spagna: The 18c Spanish Steps in this square are perhaps the most popular and delightful meeting place in Rome. The idea is just to sit, watch and be watched. Paid for by the French, they are called ‘Spanish’ because Spain’s Embassy to the Holy See is nearby.

The Trevi Fountain: 10 mins from Piazza di Spagna, this is Rome’s most astonishing extravaganza. The most famous fountain in Italy is hidden away in a square reached by narrow side streets. Built in the 18c, it shows the god Oceanus being drawn in a shell carriage pulled by two horses, one placid, the other rebellious (symbolising the different states of the sea, obviously).

Piazza Navona: Once an athletics stadium in ancient Rome, now the city’s most spectacular square, with the famed Fountain of the Four Rivers by Gian Lorenzo Bernini at its centre. The rivers represented here – the Danube, the Nile, the Ganges and the Plate – represent the four continents that were known at the time.

Saint Peter’s: Recently restored, this is the biggest Catholic church in the world and a supreme example of profuse and ornate Roman Baroque art. The high altar stands over what is said to be the tomb of St Peter himself. It is mesmerising. The soaring dome is based on a design by Michelangelo. Open daily 0700-1800 winter, 0700-1900 summer.

The Sistine Chapel: Within the fabulously rich Vatican Museums and most famous for Michelangelo’s immense frescoes. It took the artist four years to paint The Creation on the ceiling and 22 years later he produced The Last Judgement on the wall above the high altar. Once dark, brownish and mottled (partly from candle smoke), the frescoes have been restored by Japanese investors and are now amazingly bright and clear. Open Mon-Sat 0845-1245 winter; Mon-Fri 0845-1545, Sat 0845-1245 summer. Closed Sun (except the last of the month when entrance is free) and religious holidays.

An End to Motorino Madness

In a city clogged by traffic, many Romans rely on the moped – or motorino – as a way of getting across town. No tourist can fail to have been struck, if not by one, then at least by the noise and daredevil speed of these latter-day two-wheel chariots.

Up to the middle of the decade, motoriniwere a law unto themselves: needing no number plates and no insurance; traffic wardens also turned a blind eye when they jumped the lights and disobeyed traffic restrictions. Not any more. After the controversial introduction of registering vehicles and obligatory insurance, the decade ends with helmet enforcement. Rome will soon have a few more ruffled hairstyles, but will be holding on to a few more of its citizens as well.