City Information
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Queensway
Travel
Airport
King Khaled International Airport is 36 km north of the city.
Flight time from London is 6 hrs 25 min. The main Airport building
has three terminals. No 1 is for Saudia Internal flights, No 2 for
Saudia International flights and No 3 for Foreign airlines. If you
are unfortunate enough to arrive just after the arrival of a flight
from the Far East or India, immigration control may take at least 40
mins, plus the same again for baggage retrieval. However, Saudi
authorities are more sensitive to delays these days and do try to
push Westerners forward in the queues as much as possible. The level
of English spoken by the Saudi staff is also improving, while the
use of a few words of Arabic on your part always helps to smooth the
process. Facilities are not extensive but include a few coffee
kiosks and some fast food outlets in the arrivals concourse.
However, there are now several major bank offices offering a
currency exchange service. There is adequate underground parking,
which is very cheap and easily accessible from all terminals.
Airport to City Centre
The journey into the centre of Riyadh takes about 30 mins.
Complimentary hotel minibuses are usually available, but should be
booked in advance of arrival. There is a new Jetlink coach service
to the city, operated by SAPTCO. The service runs every 30 mins and
costs only SR10. The city drop-off and pick-up points are located at
the new Howard Johnson’s Riyadh Palace Hotel in Olaya and the bus
station at Batha. Taxi standards have deteriorated recently, so be
sure to choose a roadworthy vehicle. Ignore the hassling taxi
drivers as you exit the baggage hall: instead go straight to the
taxi rank and walk along it until you see a safe-looking taxi with
an English speaking driver. Most drivers speak no English, do not
know the names of the roads or major landmarks and above all are
incapable of understanding any kind of map.
Orientation
In the past 25 years Riyadh has, like many other Middle East cities,
exploded into a modern, vibrant commercial centre with many Western
characteristics. This rapid growth is also reflected in the
population, which has boomed from 667,000 in 1974 to more than 5
million today. In many ways, it resembles a modern American city,
with motorways and flyovers, international hotels, high-rise blocks
and neon-blazing shopping malls. The skyline is dominated by two new
skyscrapers: the Kingdom Trade Centre, which is almost finished and
will be the tallest at 300 m, and the well-established Al Faisaliah
tower, designed by Norman Foster. Both towers are situated between
the parallel King Fahad highway and Olaya St. Further south the city
is dominated by the UFO-style Ministry of Interior, the adjacent
Ministry of Public Works and the old Ministry of PTT building.
The City is bounded by a ring road, which comprises the King Fahad
Highway on the West Side, the Airport to Al Kharj Rd on the East
Side, the newer Dammam Rd to the north and the Old Makkah Rd to the
south. The King Fahad highway bisects the city; the main commercial
area is dominated by the intersection of this with the Makkah Rd and
Dammam Rd. To the east of Al Kharj Rd is a rapidly developing vast
area as large as the main city, comprising a mixture of housing and
commercial interests.
The Old City of Dirah and the burgeoning commercial centre of Al
Batha are to the south, bounded by Al Washem St to the north and
Tariq bin Ziyad/Al Raes St to the south. The separation of Dirah and
Batha is not very clear, but King Faisal St may be considered the
boundary. The two well-known landmarks of the Water Tower and the
30-storey circular Khozam building dominate Dirah. Al Batha is the
place for finding cheap bargains of any imaginable artefact or
appliance and where almost anything can be made to order. It
comprises a maze of old buildings and stalls, many without
air-conditioning and intersected by very narrow alleyways. It is a
very ethnic area, which can be a bit daunting and is best visited in
a group.
The best shopping area for quality merchandise is centred on the
fashionable Olaya and Sulemaniah districts. The major banks are
almost all migrating northwards from their former locations and the
head offices are all to be found in the Olaya and Sulemaniah
districts. The best known hotels are in the same area, with a few
exceptions such as the Minhal Holiday Inn and the Hyatt Regency.
There are no main residential areas since houses and compounds are
to found in every district of the city. The plushest neighbourhoods
for the super rich include the areas of Nasriya, Al Ma’ather and
Umm Al Hammam, full of imposing walled mansions and gleaming white
palaces.
Excursions
The ruins of Al Dir’aiyah, the ancient Saudi capital, lie 32 km
north-west of Al Batha. The city flourished in the late 18c under
the First Saudi Empire, but was razed in 1818 by invading Ottomans.
Reconstruction began in 1980 and today there is much to see,
especially the Mosque of Mohammed bin Abdul Wahhab and the museums.
Follow the new expressway link to the Diplomatic Quarter and turn
right towards Qassim. On the expressway, pick up signs for Al
Dir’aiyah after the King Saud University.The Reef Golf and Country
Club is 25 km from the city centre and a good venue for a weekend in
the wadi whether or not you play golf. The nine-hole course is
nicely grassy, but there is also a swimming pool and plenty of
opportunity to unwind in the clubhouse.
Getting Around
White taxis with Ar-Riyadh signs on the roof are now the only cabs
in Riyadh. Taxi drivers come from many Arabic countries and India,
and only a small percentage speak any English or have any knowledge
of the city. Don’t depend on their ‘Yes’ answers – it is
advisable to give directions for every step of the journey. All
taxis have meters, but the price is negotiable and for Westerners is
always higher than for other nationalities. Prices of local journeys
should not cost more than SR10 to SR30 inside the major ring road.
The quality standards of the taxis, the driving and service vary
tremendously; it is advisable to select a taxi that looks clean and
well maintained. However, the accident rate with taxis is very high.
It is generally preferable to use hotel limousines, which give a
better service, or better still insist on your host company sending
you a car.
What to see
Riyadh Museum and King Abdul Aziz Historical Centre: Completed in
1999 to mark the Saudi Centenary, this excellent museum is by far
the best in the country. It incorporates the Al Murrabah Palace,
which has been restored to its former glory. The surrounding gardens
include the famous Water Tower and a replica mud-brick village. The
Museum is also home to the Department of Antiquities and Museums,
which issues permits to visit historical sites such as Janadriah and
the Thumamah park and wildlife reserve. Al Amir Abdullah bin Jalawi
St and Al Malek Saud St jnct, Al Batha.
Diplomatic Area: Beautifully landscaped with a number of parks. A
footpath surrounds the area, which meanders through quaint grottos
and gardens complete with sun shading and interesting water
features. On the western side the footpath overlooks Wadi Hanifah
with its many palm groves and farms. Very pleasant for evening and
weekend strolls. Families are allowed to enter on weekends to have
picnics. To get there, head west along Arouba St, taking the
underpass at KKESH (Eye Hospital) which then continues over the
bridge crossing Makkah Rd; follow the right turning loop joining on
to Makkah Rd, continue straight keeping to the right and after 400 m
take the right turn into the DQ. Westerners are not usually stopped
at the security check point.
Dirah and Al Musmak Fortress: Built in 1282, this fort bore the
brunt of the assault by King Abdul Aziz Al Saud when he overthrew
the Rashidi regime in 1901 - note the spearhead embedded in the
door! The fort is adjacent to the famous ‘chop-chop square’,
where Fri morning executions take place. The surrounding area has
been re-developed but it is possible to follow the line of the old
city wall, which has been marked in the paving of the pedestrian
areas..
Old Diriyah: The old Saudi capital is northwest of Riyadh, along
Wadi Hanifah. The old buildings were constructed from the
traditional mud-bricks. Recently these have suffered considerable
erosion, though a preservation programme has restored a few
buildings. There’s also a traditional water well in the adjacent
Palm Grove; around 1600-1630 water is drawn up from the well in
leather bags, the power provided by asses or donkeys. Admission
free.
Makkah Rd and Escarpment: Drive west along Makkah Rd and cut through
the edge of the Tuwayq escarpment for Arizonaesque landscapes;
particularly sublime in early morning and late afternoon. Note too
the new bridge spanning one of the Wadis’s – it’s identical to
the second Severn Bridge!
Shopping
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Travel
Several modern shopping malls have been built during the last decade
to keep pace with this ever-expanding city. The Al Faisaliah
shopping complex is now open on Olaya leading to major traffic chaos
on most evenings. A new Harvey Nichols store anchors the complex,
which contains three floors of local and international boutiques and
shops. Al Akariah Centre on Mosa Ibn Nosayr St in Olaya sells
electronic goods, as do the shops along Olaya St at its junction
with Makkah (Mecca) Rd. Both the Al Aruba and Al Andalus Centres,
also accessed from Olaya, have ladies’ clothes in abundance.
Leather and jewellery can be bought at the Euromarché Centre on Al
Takhasussi Rd in Olaya. Most of the major hotels have lobby shops,
notably the Inter-Continental and the Al Khozama, where they often
have small art exhibitions.
Where to walk
From the landmark Water Tower in Al Foutah, head on to Al Wazir St
and turn right. Walk down to the Saudi British Bank on the left and
go left through a narrow street packed with shops, before emerging
on Al Batha St, the city’s main thoroughfare. Go right past the
bus terminal, head under the flyover and right into Abu Ayoub Al
Ansari St – the main souk area and a veritable maze of intrigue.
To get back to the centre, go west along Al Imam Faisal bin Turki
bin Abdulla St to the telephone exchange by the park. If you want to
get out of the city, take a short drive down to the Diplomatic
Quarter and stroll around the tracks and footpaths which run through
the wadi. Do try to get hold of a map though; not only can it get
confusing, but a complete circuit off-road is about 12 km.
Weather and Climate
Summers are very hot, with temperatures seldom below 30oC from May
to August and occasionally reaching 50oC. Low humidity offers some
relief. Winters are far cooler in Riyadh, with maximum daytime
temperatures of 21oC and evenings which can drop to freezing point.
There is very occasional heavy rain.
Customs Procedures
Do not ignore Saudi customs regulations. The following items are
strictly prohibited: alcohol, narcotics, pornography, pork products,
firearms, natural pearls. Attempting to import them into Saudi
Arabia carries severe penalties, ranging from confiscation and fines
to imprisonment and deportation. All international passengers will
have their luggage inspected by customs officials. It pays to be
helpful and patient: keep your passport handy and open all your
cases and hand luggage for internal inspection. Magazines, videos
and CDs may be retained for censorship and as this is time-consuming
it is advisable not to carry such items unless absolutely necessary.
Carrying chocolates can also cause delays whilst the ingredient list
is inspected for added alcohol - do not attempt to bring liqueur
chocolates into the country! The following items may be imported
into Saudi Arabia without incurring customs duty: 600 cigarettes or
100 cigars or 500g tobacco; perfume for personal use; a reasonable
amount of cultured pearls for personal use. A full list of items
prohibited by the Arab League can be obtained from the Saudi Arabian
Embassy.