City Information
Airport
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Queensway
Travel
Montreal Dorval International Airport is 24 km from the city, a 7-hr
flight from London. Montreal Mirabel, 56 km from the city, is just
for cargo and charters. Both airports have all the usual banking and
catering facilities plus duty-free shops and car hire operators.
Airport to City Transportation
Dorval
The journey from Dorval by taxi takes about 30 mins and costs
approximately C$28. La Québecoise bus service costs C$11 one way to
downtown and C$19.75 return: it runs every 30 mins from 0700 to
0100. It’s best to reserve bus tickets through your travel agent
to avoid taxes.
Mirabel
From Mirabel, allow 45-50 mins journey time by taxi and expect
to pay up to C$70. Fares on La Québecoise bus are C$20 one way and
C$30 return, though its schedule changes daily. As at Dorval, it’s
best to reserve a bus ticket through your traval agent.
Orientation
Montreal borders the St Lawrence River, which runs almost north
to south, though Montrealers refer to it as east to west. The city
is dominated by Mont-Royal, and the population is mostly
Francophone. However, most are bilingual in French and English, so
the actual language balance is more even. North (on Montreal terms)
of Mont Royal is the wealthy neighbourhood of Outremont, home to the
city’s well-to-do Francophone contingent, while in the south,
Westmount is where the affluent Anglophone community resides.
Downtown is centred around the crossing of Rue Ste-Catherine and Rue
Peel, south of Mont-Royal. Vieux Montréal is the old city,
established in 1642 on the riverbank and now the well-preserved
domain of businesses and banks.
On cold winter days, visitors may prefer to head underground to see
the city centre’s Ville Souterraine. This underground world makes
it possible to check into your hotel, lunch, shop, see a movie,
attend a concert, conduct business, go shopping and have a swim, all
without ever having to venture out into the icy weather above. Over
time, the major new developments have eventually been joined up in
this massive maze.
Excursions
North of Montreal, the Laurentians is a sought-after
vacation destination complete with mountains, lakes, storybook
villages and a plethora of year-round activities. In winter months,
Montrealers flock to Saint-Sauveur and Mont Tremblant for skiing,
snowshoeing, skidooing and – especially – the après ski party
atmosphere. In summertime, it’s frequented by boating, hiking and
golfing enthusiasts. Most popular of all may be autumn, when
tourists and locals visit in droves to admire the spectacular
colours of the maple trees.
Limocar Laurentides runs a bus service to the Laurentians, departing
from the Voyageur terminus: 505 Blvd De Maisonneuve E, Montreal. It
stops in most towns of the Laurentians.
Situated some 80 km east of Montreal, the Eastern Townships takes in
some of Quebec’s most picturesque countryside. It sprawls across
13,100 sq km of mountains, forests, rolling farmland, sparkling
lakes (Memphrémagog, Massawippi) and well-known tourist centres (Bromont,
Magog/Orford, North Hatley). It also boasts an astounding variety of
activities: cycling, horseback riding, antiquing, summer theatre,
golf, skiing and so on.
Autocar National Ltd runs a bus service to the Eastern Townships,
departing from the Voyageur terminus, 505 Blvd De Maisonneuve E,
Montreal. It stops in most towns in the Eastern Townships.
Getting Around
Taxis can be hailed in the street or found ranked outside hotels and
terminals. Most short trips downtown cost about C$5. Watch out for
the cab drivers if you’re on foot (the joke is they’re like New
York cabbies with blindfolds on). In fact, be very careful in
general, even if you have the right of way or are standing at a
pedestrian crossing.
STCUM runs the Metro and bus network. Four underground lines
traverse the city, with the gaps in between being serviced by some
175 bus routes. Tickets are interchangeable on both systems and are
priced at C$2 per trip. Tourist cards are available at C$7 per day,
C$14 for three days, or $13.50 for a week. Transfer machines are
located just inside the turnstiles at each station. The Montreal
Metro is one of the most spectacular transport systems in the world
– clean and quiet, characterized by hundreds of colorful murals,
stained-glass windows and ceramic designs that adorn the network’s
65 stations.
For a touch of tourist romance, horse-drawn carriages (calèches)
can be hired for a tour of Old Montreal-Mont Royal. Pleasant, too,
is a harbour cruise for some fine views of the city. Several
companies run tours, and tickets can be bought from kiosks in the
Quai de l’Horloge or at main hotels.
What to see
Montreal Museum of Fine Arts: One of the country's oldest and
most important art institutions, the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts
has a permanent collection extending from antiquity to the present
day. A wide-ranging schedule of temporary exhibitions greatly
contributes to the museum's reputation. 1379-80 Sherbrooke St W.
Metro: Peel/Guy-Concordia.
Casino de Montréal: Of interest to gamblers and non-gamblers
alike, the latter for the stately gardens and graceful interiors.
Located on Ile Notre-Dame, it accommodates 5,000 people, with 112
gaming tables and 2,700 slot machines, a private dining room, five
restaurants and a snack bar. Full conference/banqueting facilities
are available, including boardrooms and an executive dining room. 1
Ave du Casino. Metro: Ile St-Hélène. Free admission and parking.
From May to Oct, there’s a free shuttle from Dorchester Sq, on the
hour from 1200-2300.
Montreal Biodôme: Montreal’s only environmental museum,
the Biodôme brings together four natural ecosystems in a single
space. Inside, experience the natural habitats of birds, mammals and
fish: tropical forest, Laurentian forest, the Saint-Laurent marine
environment and even the polar world. Wander through rocky
landscapes, waterfalls, majestic trees and more. 4777 Pierre-De
Coubertin Av. Parking at 3000 Viau St. Metro: Viau.
Château Ramezay Museum: Built in 1705 for Claude de Ramezay,
this fabulous palace was home to the city’s royal French governors
before being taken over by the British. In 1775, the Americans
invaded and used the château as their HQ. Benjamin Franklin stayed
here for a time. In 1895, it was converted to a museum and today it
houses numerous artefacts dating back to the 18c. Do go and see the
original vaults and kitchens in the cellar. 280 Rue Notre-Dame, east
of Place Jacques-Cartier. Metro: Champ-de-Mars.
Maison de Sir Georges-Etienne Cartier: Two houses, both
restored to their original 1860 Victorian appearance. One contains
an exhibition devoted to his career, the other traces the life and
times of the Father of Canada’s Confederation in 1867. 458 Rue
Notre-Dame E.
Montreal Insectarium: The world’s most beautiful and exotic
insects find a home at the Montreal Insectarium, located on the
grounds of the Botanical Garden. From tiny butterflies to beetles
the size of a phone book, this impressive collection –- including
many live specimens – is not for the squeamish. For the truly
adventurous, on-site chefs offer tastings of a few deep-fried
specimens.
Marché Bonsecours: One of old Montreal’s landmarks, this
was built mid-19c to accommodate a public market, concerts and
exhibitions, as well as the City Hall and early Canadian Parliament.
The fine, neo-classical architecture is reminiscent of ancient
Greece. Fancy boutiques, galleries, restaurant and modern grocery
store.
Notre-Dame Basilica: Built between 1824 and 1829, Notre-Dame
Basilica features a magnificent interior, complete with sculpted
wood, gold leaf, paintings, sculptures and stained-glass windows.
Throughout the year, the majestic sound of the symphonic organ,
created by the renowned Casavant firm in Saint-Hyacinthe (Quebec),
can be heard during religious ceremonies. The eastern wall of the
apse is dominated by an imposing bronze altarpiece designed by
Canadian sculptor Charles Daudelin.
Montreal Canadiens at the Forum: Ice hockey is massive in
Canada, and nowhere more so than in Montreal, where the Canadiens
are the Manchester Utd of the sport. They regularly play in front of
20,000 baying fans and have won the Stanley Cup a record 24 times
since 1929. The North American hockey season runs from Oct to May.
Nicknamed Les Habitants, the team are the toast of the city and a
visit to the Centre Molson for a home game is a real thrill
(visitors should have no trouble in getting tickets).
Ville Souterraine (Underground Montreal): This futuristic
subterranean metropolis was conceived in the 50s as a full-service,
underground city, where Montrealers could go about their day-to-day
business without having to venture outside due to adverse weather
conditions. The first of these all-purpose complexes – Place
Ville-Marie – was designed by I M Pei in 1962, and 17 others have
followed, all interconnected by the Metro and 29 km of walkways. It
contains residential, business and recreational units, plus access
to street-level shops, hotels, restaurants, cinemas, apartment
blocks, banks and bus stops.
World Trade Center: An architectural success, fusing historic
buildings with post-modern indoor courts. The focal point is the
Ruelle des Fortifications, a 600ft glass-covered passage that
follows the original line of the old city walls. Its interior is
flooded with natural light picked up by a magnificent granite
reflecting pool.
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Queensway
Travel
The best place to shop is in the complexes of Underground Montreal.
This network of below-street-level malls contains some 2,000 shops,
250 restaurants, eight hotels, numerous banks, sports facilities and
cinemas. Place Ville-Marie alone houses well over 100 boutiques, and
the vast Cours de la Place, an elaborate art deco food hall. From
here, walkways connect to the nearby Place Bonaventure (125 shops)
and Place du Canada, both notable for their excellent shopping and
fine choice of restaurants and bars.
Above ground, hit the Rue Sherbrooke for the best of fashion, art
and luxury designer items. The Rue Crescent has upmarket boutiques,
hundreds of bars, restaurants and clubs, pavement cafés –
there’s always a party atmosphere. Rue St-Laurent majors in funky,
style-guru kit, particularly budget and charity garb, off-the-wall
clothing and accessories – for more traditional menswear, go to
Rue Peel.
If you’ve got an hour or so to kill and fancy a browse, rummage
through the antique shops on Rue Notre-Dame between Guy and Atwater.
Prices fluctuate alarmingly, but the odd bargain can still be rooted
out. For a one-stop-shop extravaganza, head for Montreal’s famous
department store – La Baie.
Where to walk
Montreal is an ideal city for walking. Its layout is
disciplined, making it easy to navigate. The main areas of
historical interest are the Latin Quarter and the Old Port, both
harbouring vibrant street scenes and plenty of excellent and
tempting restaurants.
Much of the Old Port was recently developed into a huge outdoor
entertainment centre with bike lanes, pleasure cruisers, IMAX cinema
and myriad Covent Garden-style street acts. It also hosts cultural
festivals and a great flea market at the weekend.
During clement weather, a brisk walk up the 765-ft Mont Royal to the
Belvédère is recommended, but it is a good climb and comfortable
walking shoes are required. To get there from downtown, walk up the
Rue Peel to the car park in the Parc du Mont-Royal, then follow a
path to the summit. Montreal was named after its mountain, first
climbed in 1535 by the great Jacques Cartier. With its large wooded
parks, designed by Frederick Law Olmstead, the designer of New
York’s Central Park, it is one of the most popular green spaces in
the city. Either walk to the top or take a trip up on a horse-drawn
calèche – which you’ll hit en route to the summit – for
majestic views of the city, island and St Lawrence River.