City Information
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Queensway
Travel
Airport
Miami International Airport is located about 8 km north-west of
downtown Miami. The airport is well-stocked with the usual gift
shops, newsstands, cafés and bars. Currency can be exchanged 24 hrs
a day, and there are several ATMs on hand. An on-site hotel
provides further amenities, should they be required.
Transport from Airport to City Centre
Taxis are always plentiful, and fares reasonable - Downtown
around $15, Miami Beach $25, Coconut Grove $20 and Coral
Gables $10-15. Tip no more than 10%. If you're going further
afield, the Super Shuttle, a minibus that drops passengers
off individually at various city addresses, is the best bet at
around $12. Simply sign up at the desks situated outside on
the lower level. City bus transportation is confusing and
erratic, and often painfully slow. It is best avoided.
Orientation
Miami is less a city than a metropolis, spread out on either side of
Interstate 95 which runs north and south, and to which all
major roads connect. Miami Beach, featuring the tourist magnet of
South Beach, is to the east, on the Atlantic coast. On Biscayne
Bay, to the south-east, is Coconut Grove, another tourist favourite.
To the west of 'The Grove' lies Coral Gables, a city in itself
with its own downtown business centre, and many beautiful, old
Spanish-style houses set along tree-lined streets. Downtown
Miami is in the middle of it all, with little more to offer than
office buildings and cut-price electronic and clothing stores.
South of Downtown runs Brickell Ave, lined with prestigious office
towers, banks and upmarket condominium residences.
Central Miami is basically of interest for these aforementioned
areas, the rest mainly consisting of industrial areas
and ghettos comprising one ethnic group or another, most of
which are easy to avoid. Miami has a predominantly
Hispanic population, and the majority of its ethnic (Cuban,
Haitian, Jamaican) neighborhoods are drab, run-down and of
little interest. The local government has attempted to
discourage tourists from straying into the most unpleasant of these
ghettos, and has placed a sun-shaped insignia on major routes
to lead unfamiliar drivers to safety.
Excursions
Selecting accommodations such as Turnberry or the Doral Country Club
to the west would turn your trip into an instant resort-style
getaway, as all the amenities you could wish for (golf, tennis, spa,
watersports) would be right on hand. The Keys are a popular
choice for a real getaway, with chartered fishing boats from Holiday
Isle in Islamorada, and of course the ever-popular Key West at
the end, although be aware that it takes a 4 hr drive by car. In the
Upper Keys, about an hour south of Miami, The Kona Kai Resort
is an excellent choice for a quiet hideaway, with interesting coral
reef diving expeditions available daily.
Getting Around
Like Los Angeles, Miami's spread-out topography, although
smaller in size, is still not ideally suited to
public transportation, and whatever bus service that is
provided is unreliable at best, made all the more frustrating and
unpleasant by the intense summer heat, which lasts from
Apr-Nov.
The elevated subway system is similarly impractical, being very
limited in scope and used primarily to link poorer neighbourhoods
to Downtown, and used mostly by service industry personnel, though
an elevated monorail encircling Downtown provides a pleasant
alternative to walking. Only Miami Beach has a public bus system
that is actually usable. It was provided to accommodate the
mass of resident senior citizens and tourists from Europe and South
America who flock there throughout the year.
Getting around the rest of the city usually requires a car, as taxis
can get pricey when travelling longer distances. Getting around
town by car can often be tricky, as Miami's street signs are
famously erratic and often hard to spot - many are missing from
even the major intersections - so bring a detailed map along at all
times. Don't hesitate to flag down a police car for help if you
get lost or need directions.
What is Interesting
Art Deco Historic District: This title is basically the
formal name for South Beach, and extends from 5th St to around
20th St. Brought to life by developer Carl Fisher in the 20s
and 30s, these hotels, residences and other assorted buildings
were built to attract an affluent crowd during the cold winter
months up north. The area has been lovingly preserved and
provides a pleasant and unusual backdrop to all the partying
that goes on there throughout the year. There are walking and bike
tours available. Because Miami is utterly flat, renting a bike
or a pair of rollerblades is a fun way to get around.
Vizcaya: Built in 1916 by industrialist James Deering, this
ornate 16c Italian-style villa has 34 exquisitely furnished
rooms chock-full of 15c-19c antiques and furnishings. Set in 4
hectares of formal gardens directly on Biscayne Bay, Vizcaya is
a very pleasant place to spend a couple of hours. Open daily
from 0930, tickets are $10 for adults and $5 for children.
The ticket booth closes at 1630 and the villa itself closes at
1700, though you can loiter in the gardens until 1730.
Parrot Jungle: This unusual bird sanctuary and botanical
garden set in South Miami is a place where parrots fly free,
eat from your hand and pose for snapshots. Also on hand are
flamingos, alligators, giant tortoises and so on.
Billie Swamp Safari and Everglades Adventures: You'll need a
car and a good half a day to check out this fascinating mix
of Seminole Indian culture and a world-famous unique natural
habitat. Set right in the Everglades about 45 mins from Miami,
this attraction will show you the way things were before they
paved paradise and put up a parking lot. Tours start at $20
for adults and $10 for children, and include a fascinating
swamp buggy or airboat rides.
Fairchild Tropical Garden: This is one of the world's premier
botanical gardens, sporting an impressive assortment of
rare tropical fauna and trees. Set on 33.2 hectares in South
Miami, close to Coral Gables, it features 11 lakes, lily ponds
galore and lovely meandering pathways. Guided tram rides are
offered in addition to walking and self-guided tours, and
special events often happen on weekends.
Shopping
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Queensway
Travel
Among the most pleasant places to shop in Miami are South Beach and
Bal Harbor. South Beach is geared primarily to a younger crowd,
while Bal Harbor caters to the well-heeled, with outposts for all
the Fifth Ave stores (Cartier, Tiffany, Gucci etc) sprinkled
with a good assortment of upmarket clothing stores, all eager to
cater to Miami's ever-expanding community of nouveau riche
Latinos and Russian mobster's wives. Both are situated on Miami
Beach, although Bal Harbor is up at 125th St, about 20 mins and
a good $20 cab ride away. Bargain hunters will find upmarket Miami a
good source for cut-price electronic, shoes and clothing goods,
all placed conveniently close together - head for Flagler St and
work your way from there. Bayside Marketplace, within walking
distance from Downtown, is an open-air shopping mall with all the
usual chain stores (Gap, Banana Republic, Hard Rock Café etc),
which also offers a sunset booze-cruise which leaves from the
adjoining quay. South Beach also sports an impressive selection
of stylish furniture and home accessories boutiques, notably around
Lincoln Rd. World-wide shipping is always readily available in
this tourist-friendly city. The Design District, about 5 mins north
of Downtown on NE 2nd Ave at 39-42 Sts, is also an excellent
resource for home furnishings and unusual art and ceramics.
Where to walk
Miami is so spread out and often uncomfortably hot, that it's best
to keep to condensed areas such as Coconut Grove and
South Beach for walking. There's also a better chance of a
breeze in these locales, since both are on the water. The upmarket Grove,
once a funky hangout for hippies and ultra-liberals, has been nearly
levelled and transformed into a rather tacky outdoor shopping
mall, with many open-air eating spots to choose from. It only takes
about 15 mins by foot to get the whole picture. Tourists
abound, as they do in South Beach, which at least has retained much
of its charm due to the historic architectural significance of
its buildings. Stray no further west than Washington Ave for
shopping and eating. Ocean Drive, right on the Atlantic, is
bustling with tourists most of the time, along with muscle men and
skimpily clad model wannabes skating back and forth, hoping to
get noticed. It gets even more packed at weekends. Lincoln Rd
(really 18th St) makes for an ideal stroll; not too touristy
and cut off to cars, it has a relaxed atmosphere and quite a few
interesting shops. Of course, there are miles of beach to walk
on. Try kicking off your shoes and waking along the waterline - a
combination of foot massage and exercise that is sure to help
you unwind.
Weather and Climate
Miami is usually warm and pleasant (25°C highs) Nov-Mar, after
which the heat turns blistering, with very high humidity. Balmy
breezes at night (especially on the beach) make for pleasant
alfresco dining in winter (and occasionally summer) months. The
night sky never gets completely dark, but fades to a lavender pink
which makes a unique tropical backdrop against the silhouettes
of rustling palms.