City Information
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Airport
The Kuala Lumpur International Airport at Sepang, 70 km away from KL,
is now firmly established. The numerous shops, telephones,
restaurants and seating areas are all deliciously air-conditioned,
and centred around a recreation of the Malaysian rainforest.
Airport to City Centre
If travelling by car, the 70 km journey into central KL takes
approximately 45 mins, though significantly longer in peak
hours.
Metered Taxi: Usually around RM55, but the fare is
negotiable. In addition to the negotiated price, the passenger
usually pays all expressway toll charges (around RM6). Taxis also
charge a 50% surcharge between 2400 and 0800. Metered taxi drivers
tout for business in the Arrivals Hall in the main terminal
building.
Fixed-price Taxi: The alternative taxi service is the
pre-paid voucher system. The fare of RM75 includes all tollway fees
and the KLIA surcharge. The taxi voucher booth is located in the
Arrivals Hall in the main terminal building.
Airport Limousine: Choose from the budget or premier
services. The fare is calculated precisely according to the
destination. A budget fare into the city will cost approximately
RM80 and a premier fare will be around RM100, but this will vary
according to the location of your hotel.
KLIA Ekspres: This new express rail service came into service
in April, 2002. This purpose-designed train covers the journey in 28
mins, with trains departing every 15 mins. The fare is RM35 one way
and the service operates daily from 0500 to 0100. The KLIA Ekspres
Station is located on Level 1 of the main terminal building. The
city destination is KL Sentral terminal, which is at Brickfields, on
the fringe of the CBD.
Orientation
Kuala Lumpur – ‘Muddy Estuary’ – was founded by tin
prospectors at the confluence of the Kelang and Gombak rivers in the
19c. The city has expanded in the most astonishing fashion over the
past few years. However, the economic slowdown means that Asia’s
one-time ‘garden city’ is no longer a 24-hr construction site.
Recent boom years have morphed KL into two cities – Kuala Lumpur
and the former satellite town of Petaling Jaya. The agglomeration
takes in a few extra towns such as Port Klang and Shah Alam, and is
sometimes known as the Klang Valley, a jarring name for what is fast
becoming an ugly and unpleasant place.
Old colonial buildings are giving way to bigger and sometimes badly
constructed high-rises. Among the more impressive of these is the
tallest building in the world – the Kuala Lumpur City centre twin
towers (also know as the Petronas Towers after their owner) on the
former site of the racecourse, now a luxury mall bristling with the
West’s latest designer goods. Colonial KL is centred around
Merdeka Sq in the west, surrounded by former administrative
buildings with elaborate Moorish flourishes, with the old railway
station and National Mosque a little to the south. The Puduraya bus
and taxi station is to the east on Jalan Tun Perak in the central
district. North-east is the Golden Triangle commercial district, the
booming heart of modern KL with luxury hotels, shopping malls and
office towers. Petaling Jaya and Bangsar lie to the west; east is
the diplomatic and hotel district of Jalan Ampang, which is quickly
developing into a prestigious shopping and business district since
the construction of the Twin Towers. Many new businesses have also
been attracted to the rapidly growing areas of Sri Hartamas and
Mont’ Kiara in the Damansara district. These areas are accessible
via the new SPRINT Expressway and take about 20-30 mins to reach by
taxi. The fare is approximately RM20.
As elsewhere in Asia, the road system has spectacularly failed to
cope with the city’s growth. The main thoroughfares are the
Federal Highway from Petaling Jaya to Kuala Lumpur, the clogged
arteries of Jalan Tun Razak to the east and Jalan Sultan Ismail in
the north. There are quite a few new highways with names like NKVE
and LDP to get you out of town; these are much quicker, but you have
to pay a toll. A quick glance at a map reveals a delightful
simplicity of city planning on the ground. However, the situation is
much more confusing, as everything changes so rapidly and nobody
living here thinks in terms of compass points.
To make life harder, there are no district names, apart from the
‘Golden Triangle’ financial zone, which isn’t actually a
triangle at all – rather a square, encapsulated by Jalan Ampang,
Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman (Jalan TAR), Jalan Loke Yew, and Jalan Tun
Razak. Most businesses share large buildings, usually with no street
number; they tend to be known by the names of the building, but
locals will be able to direct you. Generally, the closest thing to
area nomenclature is to go by street name, and keep an eye on the
skyline for major landmarks like the KLCC and the KL Tower.
The development of Putrajaya, the new administrative capital of
Malaysia, is now well underway and many government departments have
re-located there over the last year. Taxi takes around 30 to 40 mins
and costs RM30-40. A new rail link to Putrajaya, the KL Transit,
opened in June 2002; the journey take 36 mins from KL Sentral and
trains depart every 30 mins; the fare is RM30. In Petaling Jaya,
commercial premises tend to be low-rise shop-lots with
incomprehensible numbering and few street names, so be prepared for
addresses like Jalan SS21/17A.
Excursions
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Kuala Lumpur is not a place in which to linger and there are many
sights and plenty of beach resorts within a few hours’ drive of
the capital. Batu Caves: 13 km north of KL, just off Ipoh Rd, is
this Hindu temple complex consisting of three grand caves in
remarkable limestone formations. The main cave, known as the Temple
Cave, is reached by a straight flight of 272 steps. Every Feb, it is
a site of pilgrimage for the Thaipusam festival, where thousands of
pilgrims flock to the caves to engage in or watch the spectacularly
masochistic feats of Thaipusam devotees. Take Intrakota Bus 11D from
the Central Market Annexe - the journey lasts approx 30 mins.
Cameron Highland: One of many cool hillside resorts in the
state of Pahang. Jungle trekking is popular, and golfing benefits
from the cooler weather. Other spots worth visiting are Cactus
Valley, Rose Centre Kea Farm and Flower Nurseries, Butterfly Farm,
Vegetable Farm and Sungai Palas Boh Tea Estate - Boh tea is
internationally exported.
Fraser’s Hill: At 1524m above sea level, this is perhaps
the prettiest hill resort in Malaysia. Only 1 hr 30 mins drive from
KL, Fraser’s Hill is not unlike a quiet English village set in the
Scottish Highlands, with painted, mock-Tudor cottages and a stunning
landscape. There are plenty of relaxing activities, too: bird
watching, nature walks, picnics by waterfalls and golfing.
Malacca: Site of Portuguese, Dutch and British colonial
wrangling, Malacca is Malaysia’s most historically renowned town.
Main landmarks are Cheng Hoon Teng temple (the oldest Chinese temple
in the country, built in 1646), Hang Li Poh’s well (built in 1459)
and the 600-yr-old Tranquerah Mosque. Browse Jonker St for antiques
and don’t forget to sample Nyonya food, speciality ‘Straits
Chinese’ cuisine.
Penang: Lying off the west coast, this is the most
interesting of Malaysia’s islands, and the once rubbish-strewn
beaches are now beautiful and tantalising after an intensive
clean-up operation. Penang is also the best place to sample national
cuisine the way the locals have it. As well as the beaches, Penang
Hill is fascinating: approx 800m above sea level, it can be reached
by funicular railway, a 30-min journey, or footpath. There are
reputed to be over 50 species of birds living here.
Langkawi: This is the largest island in a cluster of 99
islands, known for their legends, limestone caves, aquamarine waters
and attractive white beaches. Many are popular with European
tourists and cater particularly to the eco-tourism trend. The Datai,
Andaman and Sheraton Perdana are Langkawi’s best resorts. If
visiting Pangkor Island, stay at Teluk Dalam or Pangkor Laut. Planes
can take visitors to gorgeous east-coast resorts in less than an
hour, or south to Singapore, a gleamingly efficient contrast to
Malaysia’s slightly chaotic way of life.
Getting Around
Taxis are still the most practical travel option for business
visitors. They are reasonably priced and used by everyone as public
transport. All taxis are metered and passengers should ask for the
meter to be engaged. A typical city-centre journey will cost only
M$4 or M$5. However, during peak hours or following a heavy downpour
many drivers will only accept an inflated fixed price fare. The
passengers have little choice in the matter – pay or stay. Most
taxi drivers speak good English.
Train in the City
KL has an excellent light rail system, the Putra LRT, which covers
the business district quite well. It is cheap (average fare RM1.20
within the business district) clean and efficient, with trains
arriving every five mins. A new Monorail system, interlinking with
the Putra LRT at two key stations, opened Jul 2002. The combined
Monorail and LRT systems cover the business district very well and
are significantly faster than taxis during peak hours and during
KL’s regular tropical downpours, which often bring the city
traffic to a standstill.
What to see
Night Markets ( Pasar Malam ): At the exuberant and colourful
night markets you can buy everything from fresh vegetables and
cooked food to toys, clothes and pirated goods. Expats and tourists
favour the night markets at Petaling St, which is open every night,
and Bangsar, which operates Sun evening only. Jalan Tuanku Abdul
Rahman (Little India) is popular on Sat evening.
Observation Towers: KL offers two venues for viewing the
city. The Menara KL Tower on Bukit Nanas offers an excellent view
from the 421m pinnacle and provides a great perspective of KL
landmarks and places of interest. For an equally good view, ‘The
Bridge’ on 42F of the Twin Towers is open to the public daily from
1000. Entrance is free but tickets are required. This is a very
popular activity for both locals and tourists, so visitors need to
arrive early to ensure a ticket.
Jalan Perdana Area: Here you will find the elegant old
railway station, temporarily being used as an interstate bus depot
but soon to be converted into a museum; the excellent Islamic Arts
Museum, with some of the finest Islamic art from all over the world;
and the National Mosque resplendent in white marble. At the Mosque
visitors must remove their shoes and dress appropriately. A gown
will be provided for those not complying. There is a separate
entrance for women, who will also be provided with a
headscarf.
The Lake Gardens: Situated beside Jalan Perdana, the Lake
Gardens – developed in the 1880’s and set in 257 acres of
rolling lawns, gardens and lakes – is the premier natural landmark
of KL. Situated very close to the heart of the city, it houses the
Bird Park, the Butterfly Park, the Deer Park and the Orchid and
Hibiscus Garden. The Butterfly Park is home to 6,000 butterflies
from over 120 species, and the recently expanded Bird Park is also
very good.
Putrajaya: This new administrative capital has been built
within the last two years, with no expense spared. Worth visiting
are the Prime Minister’s Residence and the Mosque. Entrance is
free but you must be appropriately dressed. Gowns and headscarves
will be supplied at the Mosque but not at the Prime Minister’s
Residence. For entry into the Prime Minister’s Residence ID is
required and no handbags are allowed. Also worth a visit is the
Putrajaya Wetlands Park. It houses an excellent nature
interpretation centre and offers information on two self-guided
nature trails around the park. Entrance is free. Access to Putrajaya
is by taxi or the new KL Transit train.
Other places of interest include the National Art Gallery and
National Theatre located on Jalan Tun Razak; the King’s Palace at
Jalan Syed Putra; the Central Market on Jalan Hang Kasturi; the
Craft Complex on Jalan Conlay; Badan Warisan which offers tours of
the beautifully restored traditional Malay house in the Badan
grounds.
Shopping
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Shopping is a serious hobby in KL, as in most Asian cities. Many
goods offer reasonable value, including watches. The famous Bukit
Bintang area has gone through a major facelift in an effort to make
it an upper-class shopping haven. Coffee shops and cafés are now
found in abundance, lining the pavements. For two decades, Sungei
Wang Plaza has been one of the most popular shopping haunts,
offering bargain-priced products and services. It’s packed with
beauty salons, boutiques, departmental stores and restaurants.
Exhibitions and concerts are frequently held in the concourse level,
too.
Star Hill has scores of boutiques and designer labels within its
posh interior, and is a great place to shop. Recently renovated, its
dining area is a little classier now, with four stylish eating
outlets on the ground podium and live chamber music while you wine
and dine at Shook!. Anugerah Gallery, on the ground floor, offers a
spectrum of local and international works of art. Do not miss the
many sidewalk cafés along the mall, which also make up part of
Bintang Walk, the trendy area along Jalan Bukit Bintang, which has
lots of cafés and stylish eating outlets. One of KL’s big
attractions is Asia’s biggest mega mall, Mid Valley Megamall,
which has close to 2 million sq ft of retail space. Everything is
mega-size, from the vast Cineplex and the extensive health club to
the mammoth bookstore. The Megamall gives stiff competition to Suria
KLCC, at the base of the world’s tallest building, and offers a
magnificent shopping experience within a lush landscape of lakes,
dancing fountains and a recreational park. If you’re into designer
labels, this is where to head. There’s also a smorgasbord of
foreign and local dining opportunities. Outside the Golden Triangle
other shopping centers are considerably less busy than in the past.
These include Sogo, in Jalan Raja Laut, and 1 Utama in distant
Bandar Utama. As everything is air-conditioned and sheltered from
torrential rain, the shopping-mall experience is comfortably
soulless.
For bargain hunting, there are always the night markets (pasar malam).
With their carnival-like atmosphere, they’re a great place to soak
up the local culture and pick up bargains - anything from electronic
gadgets and CDs to hot fashion, local delicacies and fresh produce.
Brush up your bargaining skills before you go and your ringgit will
stretch that little bit further. Downtown Chinatown (Petaling St),
only 5 mins walk from Central Market, is a popular night market;
Jalan Telawi (Bangsar) only operates on Sundays; Jalan Masjid (KL’s
‘Little India’) offers an enormous selection of Indian spices,
food, saris and jewellery - a great place to look for an unusual
gift or ornament. Visitors should be warned that bag snatching and
credit card fraud is quite common in KL. It is not widely
acknowledged by the government for fear of frightening away the
lucrative tourist trade. When going out money and important
documents should be carried close to one’s body and the use of
credit cards should be restricted to reputable hotels and
restaurants only. Visitors should also be mindful of security at ATM
machines.
Weather and Climate
Malaysia’s climate varies slightly throughout the year: basically
it’s warm with a wet and dry season. Temperatures on average range
from 28°C to 32°C during the day and cool during evenings and
nights to around 24°C. Jan and Feb are the hottest months. Evenings
are the most pleasant time, particularly if it has rained earlier in
the day. Jackets are rarely worn outside the office, except when
attending functions - usual attire for evenings is smart casual due
to the climate.