City Information
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Airport
Boryspil International Airport is located 30km from the city centre
on the east side of the Dnipro River. Direct flight time from London
is 3 hrs 30 mins. The airport is quite small, with only one
international and 1 domestic terminal dealing with 4,000 passengers
a day, although Terminal C is under construction. a single duty-free
shopping complex on the upper floor, an Irish Pub – the airport
has Irish partners – and several small cafés and restaurants.
There’s a large information booth with multilingual staff on the
main floor near the arrivals gate and the main exit. All travellers
are subjected first to passport control, followed by baggage
collection, then finally a sometimes rigorous customs inspection.
Facilities are limited, so if you arrive with the main influx of
European flights in mid-afternoon, the entire process can take up to
an hour. Passport control will issue you with a bit of paper with
names and dates on it, while customs will stamp your customs
declaration. Keep both papers with your passport; otherwise
immigration and customs officials could hold you up when you leave
the country. Customs has a green line and a red line: the former is
for those carrying less than $1,000 and few valuables and entitles
you to free passage without inspection, while the latter is for
those carrying over US $1,000.
Airport to City Centre
The airport has a system of taxi solicitors who stand quietly near
the exit. The standard fare to the city centre is $50, although the
return trip to the airport should cost much less – as little as
$20. Very few drivers speak more than a few words of English, and
negotiating is usually fruitless. Occasionally you can get someone
down as low as $25, but if money is a concern, several bus companies
run a regular service at the main exit, and large signs display
timetables and fares. Tickets are available on the coach and travel
time to the city centre is about 40 mins.
Orientation
Kiev, like many great cities, is built on a series of hills, on the
right bank of the Dnipro. Any traveller from Boryspil will enter
from the east, passing through the industrialised left bank, built
mostly after WWII. The heart of the city is Maidan Nezalezhnosti or
Independence Sq, dotted with numerous fountains and pools, over
which looms the great Khrushchev-era Moscow Hotel. The square forms
part of the city’s main street, Khreshchatyk. Wide promenades
stretch from the pre-revolutionary covered food market, Besarabskiy
Rynok, to the renamed Ploshcha Yevropy or European Sq and
Khreshchatiy Park, overlooking the river from on high. White
chestnut trees planted in the 1840s line much of the way, offering
shade to strollers on hot summer days, and a beautiful confetti-like
impression when they blossom in spring. Several of the main roads
radiate from Khreshchatyk. At European Sq, Hrushevsky St leads up
towards the parliament buildings, government offices and prestigious
hotels, becoming Vul Sichnevoho Povstannia, flanked by Park Slavy,
or Glory Park, and the massive Pecherska Lavra ‘monastery of the
caves’.
Taras Shevchenko Boulevard leads west from Besarabskiy Rynok,
fronted by a pink granite life-size statue of Lenin – the last one
in Kiev. At Victory Sq, where Bul Shevchenko becomes Prospekt
Peremohy, you’ll come across the main circus or Tsyrk and the
face-lifted Ukraina department store. This is the main road to the
West. Just north of downtown along the riverside is the lower city
called the Podil, where artisans, artists, traders and boat builders
all once mingled. The unofficial gate to the Podil is the baroque
Andriyivska Tserkva or St Andrew’s church built by Rastrelli in
the 18c, at the top of Andriyivskiy Uzviz, a winding cobbled road
flanked by historical architecture, galleries and cafés, leading
down to the heart of the old town, Contract Sq. Kiev has a
population of 2.6m, but the area it covers is quite small, since
most people live in either Tsarist-era or Soviet-era apartment
blocks, the monotony of which is only occasionally relieved by
run-down private districts with single family homes.
Excursions
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A popular activity among tourists, locals and ex-pats alike is a day
trip on a river boat or hovercraft down the Dnipro to Kaniv and the
museum of poet laureate Taras Shevchenko. Amid the splendid parks
and glorious hilltop views of the Dnipro is a massive museum
dedicated exclusively to the prolific poet and painter, who was born
into a poor family, and spent much of his adult life in exile in
Central Asia because of his nationalism. Special excursions run
throughout the summer and details can be found either at the river
port in the Podil or from a local travel agent.
Getting Around
Kiev is a great city for walking, but it also has an efficient and
inexpensive public transport system, including three metro lines,
electric trains, electric trolleys and streetcars, buses, as well as
both professional and private taxis. The network covers the entire
city and several nearby suburbs, and a route map can usually be
found at the major street kiosks. The cost of a single ticket on the
city-run transport network is Hr0.30, with tickets available either
at small yellow booths located next to the stop or from conductors
working on the bus or tram. Do buy and stamp your ticket because
burly men in leather jackets – the bus police – often prowl the
network inspecting tickets. The fine for free-loading is Hr8 plus a
not
insignificant amount of verbal abuse. The metro operates on tokens
and magnetic cards.
In recent years, privately-owned mini-van companies have been plying
the congested public transport routes throughout the city. These are
quick, occasionally comfortable, and cost only Hr0.50 per journey.
For quick door-to-door service, except to the most snarled up
downtown locations, taxis are the best bet. Not only do the official
taxis pick up fares, but drivers in their own or their employers’
cars, ranging from lowly Ladas to snazzy BMWs, also operate the
city’s unofficial taxi service. Roughly standardized fares exist.
During the day, a journey from the city centre to the edge of town
should cost no more than Hr8 or Hr9, but prices do go up for
late-night excursions. Taxis hanging around stands are usually not a
good bet: these boys would rather read the paper or play chess all
day than work; they’re hoping to snag a well-heeled tourist and
charge 2-4 times more than the going rate.
What to see
St Sofia: A truly remarkable church, with priceless mosaics and a
very poignant atmosphere. It would be sad to visit Kiev and not see
this wonderful building.
Andriyivskiy Uzviz: The best place to find classic Ukrainian
souvenirs straight from the artist’s or craftsperson’s hands is
about a 5-min walk north of St Sofia. This cobbled pedestrian
roadway starts by the church and winds down past turn-of-the-century
historical buildings, chic boutiques, the Bulgakov Museum, dozens of
galleries, and outdoor restaurants and cafés. The sidewalk traders
roll up their rugs around 1800 daily.
Pecherska Lavra or Monastery of the Caves: The monastery and
bell tower dominate the hillsides of the Dnipro from the left bank.
Once part of a huge network that went as far north as Pskov in
Russia, the grounds cover 28 hectares and include several churches,
chapels, art galleries and gardens, as well as a walled walkway high
above the riverbank. The centrepiece is the rebuilt Uspenskiy
Cathedral, which was destroyed during the war and is now resplendent
again with its golden domes. The monastery grounds are a lovely
place to roam around, and the bell tower offers incredible views of
Kiev and its surroundings. Among the many museum-quality offerings
are a tour of the caves, a large chapel and adjacent refectory with
impressive Pre-Raphaelite style, larger-than-life portraits of all
the abbots, and a collection of folk dress from every
region of Ukraine.
Michael’s Golden Roofed Monastery and Bell Tower: This
historically significant, magnificent church was razed to the ground
by Stalin during the peak of the ‘great famine’ and has now been
rebuilt in all its glory to overshadow the oppressive Ministry of
Foreign Affairs building. Vul Triokhsviatytelska at Mykhailivska
Ploshcha.
Golden Gates: Good views of the neighbourhood from the wooden
ramparts, good restaurants nearby.
St Volodymyr Cathedral: A moody and gorgeous church
completely painted inside mostly by the renowned Vrubel. 20 Bul T
Shevchenka.
Museum of the Great Patriotic War: This museum of Ukraine’s
role in WWII is tucked under the hideous Iron Lady, and is
considered one of the most powerful war museums anywhere.
Museum of Folk Architecture and Lifestyle: This requires a
car – although there is public transport to the door. Either
way,
it’s worth a visit to this huge, hilly outdoor ‘museum’
showing folk architecture and lifestyles from all the regions
of
Ukraine and selling lots of handicrafts. Pyrohovo Town, south of
Kiev.
Mariyinskiy Palace: This gem of baroque architecture was
built with the aim in mind of turning Kiev into the capital of
Russia. Its halls and private quarters have been delightfully
restored, although not all are open to the public. This is the venue
for most state occasions. 5 Vul Hrushevskoho.
Vydubetskiy Monastery: Below the new botanical gardens, this
is a lovely place to wander around, especially when the lilacs are
in bloom. Incredible views of the Dnipro River and golden-domed
chapels.
Shopping
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Shopping in Kiev has improved recently, but the new vibrant,
stylish, Western-orientated shops still contrast with dull,
centralised, orderly, Soviet-style stores. Most of the chic shops
for clothing, porcelain and leather goods are located in the area
around Khreshchatyk, including outlets of the more famous
international chains. Here you can also find an expensive series of
shops in the Grand Gallery, and by Darnytsia metro station on the
left bank is a wonderful and very large department store called
Detiachiy Svit, or Children’s World. The two largest Soviet-era
department stores, TsUM and Ukraina, are trying to keep up with the
times and serve the average citizen by offering both domestic and
foreign-made goods at
reasonable prices.
For souvenirs, there is nothing like Andriyivskiy uzviz, which has
several art galleries and some excellent ceramics shops, too. It has
the added benefit of being a beautiful outdoor market, although
there are numerous souvenir shops and galleries on Velyka
Vasylkivska, just off Khreshchatyk as well. They tend to offer a
wide array of goods, from cheap wooden and painted trinkets to
high-quality textiles, embroidered clothing, woodcarvings and the
occasional painting. You can be assured that virtually any souvenir,
no matter how cheap or small, has been hand-made in Ukraine; nothing
from the mass-production centres of Asia. There are also fairly
decent collections of formal postcards, not perhaps of cutting-edge
photographic value, but definitely good portraits for not too much.
Paintings, sculptures and pottery can still be found for reasonable
prices throughout Kiev, although many of the better artists – and
there are quite a few – have figured out their value beyond the
borders of Ukraine. Nevertheless, remember that any price is open to
negotiation. Kiev has dozens of food markets throughout the city
where farmers from as far away as Central Asia come to sell their
own, usually organically grown, produce. Prices tend to be lower at
markets, except Bessarabskiy rynok, than in the shops.
Where to walk
Kiev is a wonderful city for walks, whether you tour the
architectural side or choose to wander in the dozens of parks
scattered along both sides of the river and elsewhere throughout the
capital. Most of historic Kiev was built during the late Imperial
period (1890s-1914) and in the early decades after the end of WWII,
though a few sites – mostly churches – still exist from an
earlier period. The heart of Kiev starts at Maidan Nezalezhnosti,
with its granite fountains and benches. It was here that Khrushchev
stopped the reconstruction of Khreshchatyk, which was devastated in
WWII, and erected the heavy-handed Moscow Hotel across the
street.
The river heights that extend from the Monastery of the Caves to the
Podil are laden with parks and green spaces, broken only
occasionally by traffic junctions. Closest to the monastery, along
Vul Sichnevoho Povstannia, is the Park Slavy, dedicated to the
heroes of WWII. In the centre is a great granite obelisk with an
eternal flame. Newly-weds often lay a wreath and have their
photograph taken here. Beyond the obelisk is the alley of fallen
heroes, lined with stone slabs denoting important Ukrainian officers
of WWII and girded by meticulously cropped bushes.
The street leading down from the square at the entrance to the park
runs past the Askold i Dyr chapel, now a Ukrainian Greek-Catholic
church, built in honour of the 9c Kievan princes murdered by the
Vikings. Beyond the square and metro Arsenalna is Mariinskiy Park,
criss-crossed by paths that lead to the various terraced levels of
the grounds. The centrepiece is the Tsar’s palace, which is
connected with Ukraine’s parliament, the Verkhovna Rada. Expansive
views of the left bank and Dnipro River can be enjoyed from the
observation platform.
The series of parks ultimately lead to the Yevropeyska Ploshcha and
to the hideous monument dedicated to the ‘re-unification’ of
Ukraine and Russia which dates back to the early 1980s. Across the
square and behind Ukraïnskiy Dim is St Volodymyr’s Park and the
newly rebuilt St Michael’s Golden-Domed. Past a winding series of
paths stands the massive dark statue of St Volodymyr the Great, who
christened Ukraine in 988. Pause here to overlook the once-mighty
Dnipro.
Beside the monastery stands the old, grey Stalinist Communist Party
headquarters, which also serves as the gateway to Vul Desiatyna –
at the end of which is St Andrew’s Church. Sadly, its interior is
a disappointment, so enjoy the Disney-like glitter of the rococo
exterior, which rises like a golden flame in the evenings, all lit
up against a dark sky. Hundreds of artisans and artists line both
sides of the cobbled hill, summer and winter, rain or shine. Then,
from the church, follow the winding cobbled street all the way to
the heart of the old town.
Weather and Climate
Kiev has a temperate climate with vividly distinct seasons.
Temperatures can reach beyond 30°C in Jul and Aug, but the average
is high 20s. Winter temperatures can dip as low as -30°C for short
spells in Jan or Feb, but the average is -6°C. Humidity is low.
Winter does not tend to drag on, and by Apr the city is usually in
full bloom.