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Airport
Chek Lap Kok is one of the world’s most efficient and
user-friendly airports. From its free porter service to moving
walkways and boarding direct from airbridges, everything is
calculated to ensure a smooth arrival and departure. The Plaza
Premium Lounge in the West Hall, available to all passengers for
HK$250 per day, is very useful. It provides Internet,buffet,
showers, music and film lounges and a conference room. Free Internet
facilities are available at new Cyber Mall in the Northwest
Concourse. Overall, the airport has some 150 outlets including
several restaurants, bars and cafés. Smokers will be pleased to
discover that Katie O’Connor’s pub in the arrivals area allows
smoking – the only outlet to do so. Bank of China and Bank of East
Asia have branches in the terminal, operating normal banking hours,
and HSBC cash dispensers abound throughout.
Airport to City Centre
The Airport Express is the quickest and easiest way to get downtown,
speeding between the airport and Central station in just under 25
mins. The single fare is HK$100, or HK$90 to Kowloon and HK$60 to
Tsing Yi. Same day return is free, otherwise return fares are
HK$180, HK$160 and HK$110 respectively, valid for one month. Airbus
services operate 7 separate routes, take roughly 1 hr and stop at
many major hotels. The most useful routes for visitors are the A11
to Causeway Bay and A12 to Sai Wan Ho and Hung Hom KCR station.
There are also hotel shuttle buses, costing HK$120 one-way. Note
though that these days many hotels offer free airport shuttle as
part of a package. Travel by MTR and conventional bus is cheaper but
slower and less direct, serving the new town of Tung Chung en route.
A taxi to Central District costs around HK$350 and HK$285 to Tsim
Sha Tsui. The taxi rank is located in front of the terminal, to the
left of the arrivals exit. Prices include tunnel tolls, but not
luggage charges. Substantial tips are not expected unless the driver
has been particularly helpful, but it is virtually mandatory to
round up cents to the nearest dollar. Receipts are available on
request. Limousines cost upwards of HK$450 one-way.
Orientation
Hong Kong covers 1,042 sq km. The mainland is occupied by the
satellite towns and traditional villages of the New Territories,
tapering down to Tsim Sha Tsui at the tip of the Kowloon peninsula.
On the other side of Victoria Harbour is Hong Kong Island, which
accounts for only 50 sq km and is linked to the mainland by road and
rail tunnels. Central district’s boundaries now spill into
neighbouring Sheung Wan, home to plenty of steel and glass office
towers. Further west are the more traditional neighborhoods of
Western and Kennedy Town, which have a proliferation of Chinese
medicine and dried food stores. East of Central is glitzy Admiralty,
Wan Chai, chaotic Causeway Bay, Quarry Bay, Taikoo Shing and Shau
Kei Wan. Affluent Hong Kongers live in residential suburbs of Deep
Bay, Repulse Bay, Stanley and Shousan Hill on the south side of the
island, as well as on the Peak that crowns the island. Ferries link
Central to the semi-rural islands of Lantau, Cheung Chau and Lamma.
Some 235 islands – 75% of which are uninhabited – fall under
Hong Kong boundaries. The stretch of Nathan Rd in Tsim Sha Tsui was
nicknamed The Golden Mile in the 1960s because of its bustling shops
and profusion of garish neon signs; today it is still Hong Kong’s
answer to Oxford St.
Excursions
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With a full day to spare, visitors should take a trip to Macau, the
former Portuguese enclave. Unless gaming is your thing, ignore the
casinos and take a stroll downtown to see the restored colonial
buildings and the ruins of St Paul’s Cathedral. An excellent
museum charting the history of Macau has been built into the walls
of an old fort, and the Maritime Museum opposite A-Ma Temple also
deserves a look. Macau can be enjoyed in just half a day, but is
best savoured as a whole day or overnight trip. No trip to Macau is
complete without a meal in one of the many Macanese or Portuguese
restaurants in the territory.
For a shorter excursion, take a ferry to one of the outlying islands
– Cheung Chau retains much of its heritage as an old China Coast
port, while laid-back Lamma has some marvelous restaurants and
beaches, and Lantau is worth visiting for Po Lin Monastery and quiet
hill walks.
Sai Kung, in the western New Territories, is a good starting point
for hikes into the hills, and when you get back there’s a bustling
harbour, numerous seafood restaurants, a couple of pubs and
pizzerias. Take a 1A minibus from outside Choi Hung MTR
station.
Getting Around
Taxis are plentiful, except around the shift change at 1600 and very
late at night. Flag-falls are HK$15 for urban routes. Pick them up
at ranks or on the street. Always write your destination clearly on
a piece of paper – your cabbie will probably not speak English.
Green taxis operate in the New Territories only and blue taxis on
Lantau only, with flag-falls of HK$12.50 and HK$12 respectively. If
you travel through a toll tunnel, you are required to pay double the
toll, unless the taxi is from the other side of the harbor. Look out
for the new taxi receipts, which have discount coupons printed on
the reverse side, valid for various restaurants and shops.
What to see
Victoria Harbor: To experience the sights and sounds of one
of the world’s busiest harbors, take a boat tour (1-5 hrs) or the
Star Ferry and enjoy great views of the island. The Star Ferry is a
100-year-old Hong Kong institution. Excursion boats depart from
Ocean Terminal on the Kowloon side, or Queen’s Pier on the HK
side. Star Ferry is every 7 mins from Tsim Sha Tsui to Central and
every 20 mins from Tsim Sha Tsui to Wan Chai. Routes and prices are
displayed and you purchase tickets from a booth on the dock.
Hong Kong Park: An oasis of greenery and water between the
tower blocks of Central and Pacific Place. The Flagstaff House
Museum of Tea Ware is housed here in the oldest surviving colonial
building in the SAR. There is also an aviary, hothouse and pleasant
outdoor restaurant. A marriage registry makes the park a popular
venue for wedding photos and, although most brides wear frilly white
Western-style gowns these days, it’s occasionally possible to spot
a traditional red embroidered Chinese gown. Admiralty MTR.
Museum of Art: Speciality Chinese art museum, including a
fine collection of China Coast paintings. Watch out for the regular
special exhibitions, including Western art.
Museum of History: Now in Chatham Rd, the museum gives an
overview of key events in Hong Kong’s history.
The Peak: The best views of Hong Kong Island, the harbour,
Kowloon and Lamma, with pleasant tree-lined walks beating with birds
and butterflies.
The Races: The Hong Kong Jockey Club stages meetings twice
weekly on Weds and weekends during the season (Sept-Jun), at either
Happy Valley or Sha Tin racecourse. Unless privately invited, take a
Come Racing tour organised by the Tourist Association, which
includes hotel pick-up, meal in a private box and expert local
betting advice, all for HK$490. The entrance to Happy Valley is on
Wong Nai Chung Rd, MTR Causeway Bay; for the Sha Tin track, take the
KCR to Sha Tin station.
Stanley Market: Everything from silk pyjamas and Chinese
paintings to designer T-shirts. There’s more than just shopping:
the bus ride is spectacular and there’s a good choice of
restaurants and pubs in the ‘village’. Bus from Exchange Square
bus terminal, Central or Admiralty.
Temple St: Set amid the crumbling alleys off Jordan Rd,
stalls sell bargain-priced clothes and souvenirs among the hawkers
and prostitutes, unlicensed doctors, fortune-tellers and, on most
nights, Cantonese opera.
Wong Tai Sin Temple: One of the most popular and colourful in
town, dedicated to a local deity with reputed magical healing
powers. The huge prayer pavilion is usually thronged with
worshippers and wreathed in smoke from incense, with fortune-tellers
and palm-readers outside.
Man Mo Temple: In the heart of Hollywood Rd’s antique shop
zone and at the foot of a recently built high-rise tower, this
temple is one of Hong Kong’s oldest, dedicated to the deity of Man
Mo. The one-storey structure is full of atmosphere and incense smoke
that pours off large coils suspended from its ceiling. Donations are
appreciated.
Shopping
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Don’t expect electronic bargains in Hong Kong. Many items are
cheaper in the UK. High rents and staff costs ensure high retail
prices for most products. For clothing, factory outlets that stock
international brand overruns have good bargains, as do the local
high-street casual wear chains Baleno, Bossini, Giordano, G2000 and
U2. Shops selling cameras and electronics like only the latest
models, so you can often pick up older stock for close to list
price. With many designer label garments produced by Hong Kong
manufacturers on the mainland, factory outlets can be good hunting
grounds. Customised furniture and carpets can be ordered and
reliably shipped at very reasonable prices, and local Chinese
department stores attract visiting shoppers with a broad range of
arts, crafts and souvenirs, often better than those found on the
mainland. Shanghai Tang in Central is the upmarket version of these
stores, with accordingly higher prices. As for Chinese antiques, the
dealers say that few good buys are left, but that shouldn’t deter
a keen collector from browsing. Stanley Market is still very
worthwhile for clothing and footwear, and many people are now making
the trip across the border to Shenzhen for designer copies and cheap
tailor-made clothes.
Credit card payment is ubiquitous in Hong Kong and more widely
practiced than in the UK. Beware, though, the high added percentage
premiums for credit card payment demanded by some travel agents and
independent electronics shops, who blatantly quote high to encourage
you to part with ready cash instead. Repeat or longer-term visitors
should consider getting an Octopus card – a smart card swiped at
barriers on the MTR, buses, minibuses and ferries. They can be
picked up at any MTR station for a refundable deposit of HK$50 and
topped up as and when required for however much you like. 7-11
stores also provide top-up points and McDonald’s restaurants are
one of the first retail outlets to allow payment with Octopus.
Remember, too, that although Hong Kong is no cheaper than elsewhere
for most goods, camera film and Hi-8 video cassettes are
significantly cheaper here than in Europe. Fortress electronics
chain store, with branches all over the SAR, is a safe bet for
these.
Where to walk
The energetic should take a taxi to Tai Tam Reservoir. Stop at the
car park on the left before the reservoir and start walking, simply
following the signs for Mount Butler. This walk culminates in a
600-step climb to the top, from where there is a terrific view of
the harbor and the old Kai Tak Airport. Follow the path onward to
the Park View Apartments, and then pick up a taxi back. Western
District, which adjoins Central but has so far avoided merging with
it, recalls Hong Kong in the late 19c and early 20c. Little has
changed, with traders selling rice, eggs, herbs and other produce
from open-fronted shop-houses, and traditional crafts like jade
carving carried out. For a 2-3 hr walk, Hollywood Rd is known for
its antique and curio shops, as is the parallel Upper Lascar Row,
also known as ‘Cat Street’. Just to the north is Man Mo Temple
(see listing above), dedicated to the Gods of Literature and War.
Continue to Staunton St, with its proliferation of small ethnic
restaurants, from where you can walk down the stepped streets to
Queen’s Rd Central.
For a taste of real life Hong Kong, get off the MTR at Sham Shui Po
or Mong Kok – the latter being the most densely populated area on
Earth – and just walk around. Off the main streets, tiny shops
sell cheap, mainland China products and equally small eateries serve
up traditional savoury and sweet Cantonese snacks that used to be
sold by street hawkers before they were outlawed.
Weather and Climate
Oct to Dec is the most bearable season, with dry, balmy weather.
Otherwise during the summer it’s hot, rainy and very humid – 80%
is average – and alternately warm and cold in winter. May-Sept is
the typhoon season. A series of typhoon signals sounds according to
how close the storm is. When a typhoon signal 8 goes up, transport
is severely curtailed and sometimes even suspended.