City Information
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Airport
Noi Bai International Airport is 30km north of Hanoi city centre.
Flight time from London can be anywhere between 14 and 18 hrs, with
most flights routed via Singapore, Bangkok or Hong Kong. Facilities
are basic, with limited duty-free opportunities and exchange rates
are not the best, so it’s best to delay changing large amounts.
Visitors to Hanoi should keep their customs declaration form and
entry-exit forms. These are to be returned upon leaving the country
– so be advised that fines and delays are certain if they’re
lost. Be prepared also for the international departure tax of $10
and a domestic one of VND20,000 (about $1.50). A new international
terminal is now under construction at Noi Bai Airport and due to
open in 2001. It should make arrivals and departures quicker.
Airport to City Centre
You can buy a ticket for the 45-min journey into from the Airport
Taxi booth just outside the terminal for $10, or from one of the
drivers outside for about $12 up to $25. Vietnam Airlines provide a
shuttle bus to the airline office in Quang Trung St in the centre,
some 45-55 mins away. The cost is $4, but if you pay the driver an
extra dollar he may be persuaded to take you to your final
destination.
Orientation
The name of the administrative and political centre of Vietnam means
‘surrounded by river’, bordered as it is by the Red River and
its delta to the east, so named because of the red silt that it
carries down from the hills of China and north-west Vietnam, and by
West Lake to the north-east. The Red River is unpredictable and
presents a continual danger of flooding to those who live near it.
Hanoi’s 3 million people live within an area of roughly 200 sq km
divided into seven districts: Hoan Kiem, Hai Ba Trung, Dong Da, Ba
Dinh, Tay Ho, Thanh Xuan, and Cau Giay. The heart of the city is
Hoan Kiem district, the Old Quarter and around the southern end of
Hoan Kiem Lake, where you’ll find the Opera house, state bank and
post office, along with many remarkable buildings evoking
Vietnam’s past and traditions. The delightful Old Quarter is the
most atmospheric part of the city, a fascinating world of faded,
historic merchant houses embellished with Chinese, art deco, French
and even Soviet detail. Whole streets are dedicated to specific
trades – everything from silk tailors to bamboo ladder-makers –
a tradition that harks back to the 15c when the area was divided
between 36 artisan guilds. West of the lake lie the cathedral,
museums and what was once the residential quarter for Catholics at
the end of last century. To the north-west, Ba Dinh district is the
centre of political, diplomatic and cultural activities, containing
government offices, the presidential palace, Central Party Committee
office and many embassies in colonial government buildings and the
very elegant houses of former high-ranking French officials. The
business sector is centred mainly around Ngo Quyen St and Hai Ba
Trung, although there are plans to develop a new business area
outside the city towards the airport. Architecturally, the city is
an eclectic mixture of traditional Vietnamese, Chinese, French and
even Soviet styles. Much of this unique legacy was sadly neglected
for some 50 years, largely sparing Hanoi from concrete and
high-rises, but leaving many historical buildings in decay, and
moves to return Hanoi to its former grandeur are running into
financial difficulties and planning problems.
Excursions
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King’s Island Golf Course in Ho Tay Province is 1 hr 30 mins by
car north-east of Hanoi, including a short boat ride across from the
mainland to the island. It’s an 18-hole course with excellent
views, though the clubhouse is very basic. The Perfume Pagoda lies
some 60km from the capital in Ha Son Binh province. Getting to the
Pagoda requires a boat trip along the Yen River that takes you
through the surrounding limestone hills. The Perfume Pagoda site
takes in a number of temples, dating from the 15c to the early 20c.
A guide is not essential. From where the boat drops you follow the
main path up the mountain and it’s about a 2km walk. The capital
of ancient Vietnam during the 10c and 11c, Hoa Lu, is about a 2-hr
drive away, taking around 8 hrs for a full day trip. Mai Chau is the
nearest place to Hanoi where you can visit hill tribe villages in
some of the most beautiful countryside in Vietnam, and the four-hour
drive is well worth the effort. On your way back, stop off at Hoa
Binh town and walk across the 1980s Russian-built hydro-electric dam
which generates power for the North. The village of Ba Trang, a
hamlet devoted to the making of fine ceramics, is about an hour by
car from Hanoi. On the way, you’ll see clay brick furnaces used in
all new construction in the Hanoi area. Once there, it’s best to
simply wander through the town to see the specialities of each shop.
Prices for these rare and beautiful pieces are low, often beginning
at $1, ranging to $100 for some of the 2-metre-tall Chinese-style
vases. Trips can be arranged through any travel agent, but one very
good coffee shop, Memory Café at 33 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem
District, is the best for arranging tours at reasonable rates.
Getting Around
Public transport in Hanoi is limited to local buses that seldom run
to schedule. The best way to get around is by taxi or – for the
very brave – on the back of a scooter, generally known as a xe om.
Both can be hailed in the street or can be found outside the main
hotels. A car and driver can also be rented for the day either
through a travel agency or through most hotels. Prices start at
about $8 per hour or $35 per day. If you are not in a hurry, cyclos
offer an alternative mode of transport, which is the easiest and
most romantic way to know the city, especially at night when the
streets are empty. Quite a few of the cyclo-drivers speak some
English and they can be excellent tour guides. The price is usually
between 50c and $1, although bargaining is essential and make sure
you negotiate a price before setting off. There is a cyclo ban in
some of the main streets around the city, particularly around Hoan
Kiem Lake, so don’t worry if you think you are not taking the most
direct route. If you are in town for more than a few days or over a
weekend, try going around Hanoi on a bicycle – a hugely enjoyable
way of seeing the city. Many hotels and cafés rent
them out by the day for about $1.
What to see
Army Museum: This homage to Vietnam’s victory in wars
against both the French and the US includes a Soviet-built MIG-21
jet fighter and the remnants of French and US aircraft. The museum
features a diorama of the famous Dien Bien Phu battle, replete with
lights showing encampments, battles, and capture. Request the
English version video run with the diorama, as attendants are prone
to show only the Vietnamese version if no one requests otherwise.
The diorama of the capture of Saigon is seldom in good working order
and not all that impressive. Rooms dedicated to war-hero mothers and
their extraordinary losses merit attention. Reasonable English
translations.
Vietnam Fine Arts Museum: Contains a broad range of Vietnam
popular arts including paintings, lacquer, ceramics, Dong Son drums
and terracotta exhibits. The museum owns ten paintings by modern
master, Van Duong Thanh, that are well worth viewing.
Vietnam History Museum: Formally L’Ecole Française
d’Extrême-Orient, this classic old building – a happy marriage
of palatial Vietnamese and colonial French styles – is itself
worth a visit. It now features some fine bronze drum exhibits from
the Dong Son era and artefacts dating from the dynasty of the Hung
Kings to modern pieces covering Vietnam’s victory over French and
US forces.
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and Museum: Despite his wish to be
cremated, Ho Chi Minh was placed on display in a mausoleum
identical to Lenin’s in Moscow. The mausoleum is closed
every year for two months, normally in Oct and Nov, while Ho Chi
Minh’s embalmed corpse is dispatched to Russia for its annual
make-over. There’s a strict code of behaviour: no shorts or vests
and a solemn silence must be maintained. Visitors must first
register at 5 Ngoc Ha, near the imposing white Ho Chi Minh Museum.
Also on-site is Ho Chi Minh’s residence for the decade before he
died and the Ho Chi Minh Museum that features surprisingly lyrical
displays to explain his life and times.
Hoa Lo Prison: One venue that remains unlisted in most guide
books is the former French prison known as Maison Centrale to the
thousands of Vietnamese prisoners and as ‘the Hanoi Hilton’ to
the thousands of US POWs interred there during the last two wars.
Although most of the complex has been demolished to make room for
the looming Hanoi Central Towers, a vestigial element was retained
to provide a powerful reminder of the past. The guillotine that
stands in the centre of the room that US POWs used for dining is
flanked by a plaque commemorating those executed under French
occupation. The French-built prison is also the former residence of
the current US Ambassador to Vietnam.
Van Mieu Quoc Tu Giam: the Temple of Literature is one of the
most valued treasures of Confucionism and culture in Vietnam.
Originally a university, it still bears 82 stone stelae on tortoise
shells of different styles erected between 1484 and 1780. These
pillars are engraved with the names of the 1,306 doctor laureates
awarded under different dynasties. Each degree was awarded after
passing an oral exam by the king. The temple is currently under
excavation and older artefacts are being unearthed.
Vietnam Museum Of Ethnology: Sleek, modern museum depicting
Vietnam’s 64 ethnic minorities through their cultures, customs and
traditional dress. Displays are well documented in multi-lingual
format and artefact presentation is excellent. There’s also a shop
where visitors can buy modern handicrafts.
Where to walk
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Begin at the front entrance of the Metropole Hotel on Ngo Quyen St,
turn left into Trang Tien St towards the Opera House, a magnificent,
newly-refurbished French building which first opened its doors in
1911. Original drawings and designs were unearthed in Paris, which
helped restore the building to its original splendour. Walking back
up Trang Tien St towards Hoan Kiem Lake, you pass a number of art
galleries and bookshops selling an interesting line of photocopied
English-language books. Walk around the west side of the lake and
take the left fork turning into Hang Trong St and left again towards
St Joseph’s Cathedral on Nha Tho St. If you have time there is
usually a lively service around 1700. Drop in at Song shop, at 7 Nha
Tho, which has some of the finest embroidered bed and table linens
as well as other good-quality souvenirs. Take a pit stop for a
refreshing drink at Café Moca opposite. Continue along Ly Quoc Su
towards Hang Gai St, past a couple antique shops that are fun to
wander through. Upstairs always seem to have the more interesting
bits and pieces. Once in Hang Gai St you have reached one of the
City’s business shopping areas known as ‘streets of the 36
markets’. Each street represents a guild or industry originally
set up to serve the court. Hang Gai is known for its silk and cotton
and has some of the best shops. Other highlights include handmade
playthings in Wooden Toys Shop at 79 Duong Thanh and paintings and
ceramics at Co Do Gallery at 46 Hang Bong. Hang Bac, or Silver St,
is home to some of Vietnam’s busiest gold traders, most of whom
are women. Most gold shops will do honest dollar exchanges with very
good rates. The closer Hang Bong St gets to Hoan Kiem Lake, the more
jewellery and knick-knack shops there are – and the street name
changes to Hang Gai St. Drop into the Green Palm Gallery at No 9.
Alternatively, take a short cycle ride to the Pastry and Yogurt Shop
on 252 Hang Bong, one of Vietnam’s most famous cafés. Photographs
of Catherine Deneuve adorn the walls, taken while filming Indochine
in Vietnam in the early 1990s.
Weather and Climate
The typically hot and humid summer lasts from May to Sept, with
average temperatures of 25ºC-33ºC and very heavy rains at the end
of Aug and into Oct. In winter, from early Jan to Mar, the weather
can be fairly cold at around 8ºC-15ºC. The best times of year to
visit Hanoi are in spring from Mar to May, and during autumn from
late Oct to Dec.