City Information
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Airport
Dublin
Airport is 6 miles north of the city centre. It is undergoing
substantial redevelopment, so there is no hard or fast rule
applicable to which terminal is used by which companies, and the
arrivals hall is centralised - check the monitors on arrival for
where to check in. However, once through security, Terminal A caters
mostly for commuter traffic and UK regional destinations. Most
Transatlantic flights are from Terminal B, where US Immigration is
located for pre-clearance to the five US destinations (Atlanta,
Boston, Chicago, New York, and Newark). Terminal C generally handles
London airports and other European carriers.
The Bank of Ireland, found in Departures, offers full banking
facilities (open 0530-2100). There are also bureaux de change (open
0800-2000) and several cash dispensers in Arrivals and Departures,
along with an extensive food court and bar. Business meetings can be
held at the executive lounge in Departures or at either the Holiday
Inn just inside the airport entrance or the Great Southern Hotel.
Airport
to City Centre
Taxis
can be found outside Arrivals. The trip into Dublin costs around
€25. A new private coach service, the Aircoach, generally takes no
more than 25 mins to reach its city centre stops (O'Connell St and
Trinity College), continuing thereafter on a round trip that takes
in southside suburbs such as Donnybrook and Ballsbridge among
others, as well as many of the hotels mentioned in this chapter,
including the Gresham, the Berkeley Court and the Four Seasons. It
costs €5 and leaves every 15 mins from outside the Arrivals hall
(0530-2330 - airport to city, 0530-2200 - city to airport). For
further information contact Aircoach.
Otherwise, Airlink non-stop buses depart every 20 mins (0545-2330)
from outside Arrivals to the central bus station and both mainline
rail stations in the middle of Dublin. The trip takes 30-40 mins and
costs €4.50. A new service, the Aerdart connects the airport to
the Dart suburban train line, useful if you are going further south
or north of the city. A combined bus and train ticket costs €5.
Orientation
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Dublin
boasts an enviable location, backing onto mountains to the south and
west and enclosed by Dublin Bay, with the River Liffey bisecting the
city on an east-west axis. Today it is home to a beguiling
collection of pubs, churches, grand Georgian buildings, fine
museums, and a population of around 1 million. The financial heart
of the city is just north of the Liffey in the International
Financial Services Centre, a recently built Gotham City of glass and
red brick, which is home to most of the major banks and financial
institutions.
South of the Liffey is virtually an island bounded by the Grand
Canal. Just off the river is Temple Bar, a pedestrianised area alive
with restaurants, bars, trendy clothes shops, buskers and galleries.
Traditionally bordered west and east by Christchurch and
Westmoreland streets respectively, to the south by Dame St, and to
the north by the Liffey, more recently it has encroached north of
the river. Here in the increasingly trendy north quays, the chic
Morrison hotel stands at the centre of a selection of buzzing music
bars. The recently completed Liffey boardwalk, stretching along the
riverside between the O'Connell and Millennium bridges, is designed
as a space where artists and craft-workers can sell their wares from
portable stalls.
Further
east is Trinity College, with fashionable Grafton St heading off
south to St Stephen's Green, where Dubliners promenade and picnic.
On the north side of the Green is Leinster House, home to the Daíl.
The surrounding area is practically an essay in Georgian
architecture, with elegant houses balanced around colourful squares.
South of the canal is the district of Ballsbridge, home to many of
the modern business hotels and the embassy belt. The original old
city, located towards the west, is home to antique shops and
historic sites such as the Cathedrals of Christchurch and St
Patrick.
Getting
Around
Central
Dublin is fairly compact, and traffic is as terrible as in any
thriving city - walking is usually the quickest way to get around.
Taxis can be hailed in the street and usually display a yellow light
when for hire, although it's often easier to summon one to your
hotel. Taxi ranks form outside the main hotels at O'Connell St, St
Stephen's Green, College Green and near the bus and train stations.
Recent deregulation means greater availability and notorious queues
are much diminished. A taxi called from your hotel may well be a
hackney; these are not metered but have a strictly worked out, and
usually correct fare system. Cars come in all sizes and colours, are
metered and trips seldom cost more than €12.
What
to see
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Leinster
House: The home of the Daíl was built in 1745 and became the
parliament of the new Irish Free State in 1921. On Saturday mornings
you can visit the Taoiseach's (Prime Minister) office on Kildare St.
The public can visit by prior arrangement and in some circumstances
view the press gallery overlooking the Daíl, when TDs are 'in
session'.
A
few hundred yards from Leinster House on Merrion Square are
theNational Gallery and Natural History Museum. The National Gallery
houses an extensive permanent collection and exhibits the Turner
Watercolours in Jan when light levels are at their lowest.
The
National Museum, also on Kildare St, houses extensive collections
which spill over to the former Collins Barracks at Islandbridge on
the outskirts of the city centre. The two sites have space enough to
display the collections at their full potential.
Guinness
Brewery: The home of Guinness Stout, Ireland's number one export.
Visit the 'World of Guinness Exhibition' before retiring to the bar
to sample the exhibits. Good souvenir shop for that authentically 'oirish'
gift.
Irish
Whiskey Corner: Set in an old Jameson Whiskey depot, visits include
an audio-visual introduction to whiskey making, followed by a
tasting session in the Ball o' Malt Bar, then a tour of the museum
if you're still able to walk. Recently extended to accommodate a
restaurant that's quickly become a top corporate entertainment
venue, with dinner and a cabaret of traditional music and dance.
Smithfield is the 'new' Temple Bar area, and is quickly becoming
popular in its own right.
Writers
Museum: Restored 18c mansion house paying homage to Ireland's
literary giants - Shaw, Yeats, Beckett, Joyce - with manuscripts,
portraits and memorabilia.
Temple
Bar Food Market: Dublin's foodie paradise congregates every Sat in
Meeting House Sq. Fruity farmhouse cheeses, home-made chocolates,
delicious breads and lots more besides. The scents alone will break
all dietary resolve.
Where
to walk
Dublin
is compact to the point of intimacy and easily explored on foot.
Close cultural ties with Europe have bestowed a continental feel of
late, with a cosmopolitan selection of cafés bars, ethnic
restaurants, lively young people and bustle everywhere. There is
vibrant street life in Temple Bar and Grafton St, elegance and
serenity in and around the campanile of Trinity College and acres of
green space in St Stephen's Green, Merrion Sq and Iveagh Gardens,
hidden away behind the National Concert Hall on Earlsfort Terrace.
Temple Bar is the generic name for the knot of colourful streets
between Dame St and the Liffey, where Dubliners meet visitors in a
cosmopolitan melting pot. Trendy bars, hole-in-the-wall eateries,
upmarket restaurants, galleries and avant garde clubs rock, if not
around the clock, then for a good deal of it. Moreover, it is
virtually all pedestrianised so one can wander at will whatever
one's state.
Just
to the east of Temple Bar is Trinity College, founded by Elizabeth I
in 1595 and alma mater to Bram Stoker, Samuel Beckett and countless
other luminaries. Closes and cobbled squares make for a secluded
antidote to the bustle of the streets outside. College Park is
popular for summer picnicking. The college library holds Ireland's
largest collection of books including the famous Book of Kells. From
Trinity, head south down Dawson St to St Stephen's Green, laid out
in 1880 through the beneficence of Lord Ardilaun, a member of the
Guinness family. An elegant oasis of flowers, lawns, fountains and
lake, it's a lovely place to stroll, especially in summer when a
shady bench offers shelter from the rigours of the day to the tune
of a brass band on the bandstand (lunchtime concerts in summer).
Don't be alarmed if you hear a cock crow: he's a leftover from a
France v Ireland rugby match. If in need of a restorative, pop into
the bar at the Fitzwilliam Hotel on the western side of the park.