City Information
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Travel
Airport
Dubai International Airport handles well over 13 million customers a
year, with 95 airlines providing connections to 137 destinations
worldwide. The national carrier, Emirates, flies daily services to
Birmingham, Heathrow, Gatwick and Manchester. Passengers arrive at
the Shaikh Rashid Terminal which opened in 2000 and is a role model
for international terminals in the Middle East. Ultra modern, the
terminal is well signposted and there are always friendly staff on
hand to help. Moving walkways, escalators and lifts all help cut
down on the trek from aircraft to immigration. Facilities include a
duty free shopping area for arrivals, a transit hotel, business
centre, banks, post office, shops, bars and restaurants. There
are cash points throughout the airport and 24-hr currency
exchanges in the shopping area. Left luggage facilities are
available and all main car hire firms are represented in Arrivals.
If you are being met, it should be easy to spot your contact in the
large arrivals hall after you clear customs. Construction is now
underway for further extensions at the airport which will be
completed by 2006.
Airport to City Centre
Fleets of beige coloured taxis from Dubai Transport Corporation are
based outside the terminal. The taxi system operates on a ‘first
in the line, first served’ basis but, as there is no queue, this
can be confusing to arriving passengers. The taxi drivers, however,
will always help. Every taxi driver is friendly and they abide by
their own code of hospitality ethics. Airport taxis clock up Dh20
the minute you settle in the back seat, and Dh1.25 per km, so
getting to a city hotel will cost Dh30-35 and to a beach hotel
Dh65-75. The return journey will be about Dh20 less. Alternatively,
most hotels operate their own meet and greet service: book in
advance. Some offer private cars or limousine service while others
operate minibuses. If you know the city already and want to
save a bit of money, then a newly introduced luxury coach service
operates from the airport into the city centre, currently via two
routes, for Dh3. If you are travelling within the region and wish to
avoid the hassles of road travel, then Emarat Link offers convenient
air connections between the key cities of Abu Dhabi, Dubai and
Fujairah. Operating luxurious 9 seater Cessna seaplanes, Emarat Link
lands and takes off from downtown locations and includes a value
added drop-off service by private car.
Orientation
Dubai is the second largest of the seven United Arab Emirates,
located on the south-eastern shore of the Gulf. Dubai, a modern city
of ever taller multi-storeyed buildings of steel and glass with a
superb road infrastructure, is divided by a broad, salt-water inlet
called the Creek (or Khor Dubai), which divides the city into two
sections – Deira to the east, Bur Dubai to the west. Deira is
considered the downtown, with its traditional souk district located
around the mouth of the Creek, between Naif Rd and Al Mussalla Rd.
This is a very busy crossing and generally crowded in the early
evening. Other main streets are Beniyas Rd, which runs alongside the
Creek, and Al Maktoum Rd – a name familiar to horse racing
fans! Beniyas Sq is the main hub, and is Dubai’s Trafalgar
Sq. There are four routes across the Creek. The Shindagha
Tunnel runs under its mouth; Al Maktoum Bridge carries the bulk of
central city road traffic; Al Garhoud Bridge is a city centre bypass
with traffic constantly jammed due to volume and accidents; foot
passengers can cross on an abra – Dubai’s handy water taxis –
or brave the pavements on the bridges.
Getting Around
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There is an extensive, efficient and cheap bus service in Dubai, but
most visitors get around by taxi. Comfortable taxis with uniformed
drivers are operated by four companies, all of which charge the same
rate. Even if you have hired a car it often makes sense to use taxis
for appointments in some of the busier parts of the city. Taxis
charge Dh3 for a pick-up during daytime and Dh1.25 per km
thereafter. You can hire a taxi for 12 hrs for just Dh500, or
Dh1,000 for 24 hours, which is perfect if you want your own
chauffeur at your beck and call to guide you to all your meetings
and hang around if you plan a night on the tiles. Taxis can also be
booked through the electronic booking machines dotted around town.
It costs Dh1 to book a taxi , which, on receiving the electronic
message, will immediately be despatched to the machine’s location.
However, pick-up charge is Dh4, as is the fare per km.
Finally, if you want to travel between the Deira and Bur Dubai sides
of the city, and really drink in the local flavours, take an abra,
the small ferries which shuttle back and forth across the Creek.
There are two abra stations on either bank and the ride costs just
50 fils – pay on board.
What to see
Jumeirah Mosque: A spectacular example of Islamic Fatimid
replica architecture and Dubai’s most-photographed edifice, best
seen after dark when it is illuminated by hundreds of spotlights.
Open daily 0800-2000, outside of prayer time. Visits should be
arranged via one of the local tour companies, or through the Sheikh
Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding, located on the second
floor of the nearby Beach Centre in Jumeirah.
Mosques: Jumeirah is not the only attractive mosque in Dubai
– keep your eyes open for some of the smaller ones hidden between
buildings, many of which are quiet architectural gems. Take a side
street from Jumeirah Mosque up to Al Wasl Rd to the Iranian mosque
covered with turquoise tiles. Also worth seeing is the mosque on
Airport Rd, just before Rashidiya, which, with its seven minarets,
each topped with a new crescent moon, is quite spectacular. However,
note that with the exception of the organised visits to Jumeirah
Mosque, non-Muslims may not enter mosques in the UAE.
Dubai Museum: Built in 1787 as a fort for sea defence
overlooking the mouth of the Creek, this building is the former
residence of the earliest ruler of Dubai. Also known as the Al
Fahidi Fort it was restored in 1970 and turned into a museum, which
today is one of the most advanced houses of history in the region.
Though artefacts cover the last 4,000 yrs, it obviously emphasises
on the 20c, when Dubai emerged as an important trading, fishing, and
pearling country. Even if you’re not a museum goer, this offers a
fascinating glimpse into the past which could well be a benefit to
understanding the true background of your Emirati business contact
– it’s even a good conversation opener, as the Emiratis are
extremely proud of their past and will appreciate that you have at
least an inkling of the way things were before their move into the
oil era.
Bastikiya: Adjacent to the Dubai Museum, this is a
wonderfully recreated piece of the past. Its courtyard houses have
been carefully restored and include wind towers, the earliest known
form of air-conditioning. The towers form a chimney which sucks down
cooling air into the room below, an amazing process which was
introduced by Iranian immigrant merchants in the 19c. There’s also
a wonderful art gallery, The Majlis Gallery.
Palace of Sheikh Saeed: This coral palace was built at the
end of the 19c on the banks of the Creek and was once the home of
the ruling family, the Al Maktoums. Sheikh Saeed, grandfather of the
present ruler, lived here until his death in 1958. It is an
exemplary specimen of Dubai’s architectural style, with 30 rooms
leading from a wonderful main entrance, central courtyard, and
several wind towers. In 1986 the house was converted into a museum
and restored, using traditional coral covered with lime and sand-coloured
plaster.
Heritage and Diving Village: Large-scale recreations of
traditional life, including weaving, pottery, pearl-diving displays
and cooking. There is a small souk selling local artefacts and
occasional cultural displays. Doesn’t really get going till 1600.
Adjacent to the Palace of Sheikh Saeed.
Nad Al Sheba Golf and Racing Club: Situated at the head of
The Creek, the race track is host to the Dubai World Cup every
March, therichest horse race in the world. Racing takes place
throughout the winter months, generally Nov to Apr on Sun and Thurs,
and entrance to the public areas is free. An excellent evening’s
entertainment for both racing enthusiasts and people-watchers alike,
with competitions for prizes that include four-wheel drive vehicles.
Also, you can book a round of golf on the spectacular golf course,
which has been built around the race track and is the only fully
floodlit 18-hole golf course in the region.
The Godolphin Gallery: Housed within the Nad Al Sheba Golf
and Racing Club complex, the gallery displays trophies which have
been won over the past few years by the famous Godolphin horseracing
stable, pride of the Al Maktoum family. The Godolphin stables,
formed in 1994, are today recognised as one of the most successful
stables in the world. Well worth a visit, but call Nad Al Sheba Club
beforehand to arrange a visit.
Wild Wadi Water Park: Situated adjacent to the Jumeirah Beach
Hotel and Burj Al Arab, this is fantastic fun.
Camel Racing: Make an early start to take in the camel racing
track which is situated along the road leading to Nad Al Sheba Golf
and Racing Club. Camel racing takes place early on Friday mornings
throughout the winter months and you can see the camels training
every morning. Adjacent to the camel race track is a fascinating
camel village where one can browse around the typically Arabic shops
and purchase a variety of locally made handicrafts. This is open
every day.
Gold and Diamond Museum: Located within the recently opened
Gold and Diamond Park on the Shaikh Zayed Rd, towards Jebel Ali,
this is a visitors’ centre and museum, housing a permanent
exhibition and the Med Café. It showcases traditional Arabic
jewellery along with an explanation of the history behind the
exhibits. Guided tours take visitors around the jewellery
manufacturing plant and there is the opportunity to buy, and to
commission your own design and watch it being made on the
spot.
Union House: Not only sporting the largest flag pole in
Dubai, this is the historic site where ruling Sheikhs got together
in 1971 to form the United Arab Emirates as we know it today.
The Big Bus Company: London style hop on-hop off tourist
buses give a good idea of the city if you’re pushed for time.
Shopping
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Travel
Dubai is a shopper’s heaven and has three annual shopping
festivals – around Easter, in high summer, and during Ramadan. The
souks are the old traditional markets of the East found in the
narrow alleys of Deira. The Deira Souk, behind the Shatt Al-Arab
Hotel, sells silks as well as Persian and Afghan rugs and other
Eastern textiles. The Spice Souk is a wonderful olfactory
experience. Deira’s Gold Souk is the city’s gold trading post,
with all manner of gold objects and jewellery for sale. Al Fahidi St
in Bur Dubai is the place for rock-bottom prices on electronics and
textiles. Be prepared to barter – it is expected and adds to the
atmosphere. If all that’s a little too authentic then retreat to
the air-conditioned haven of Dubai’s 30-plus shopping malls, as
good for window-shopping and people-watching as for emptying the
wallet. The largest is Deira City Centre, with the enormous French
hypermarket, Continent, plus outlets of Ikea, Woolworths, and some
200 other shops, hotels, apartments and a cinema
complex. Equally good but less frenzied is the newly extended
Wafi centre, with its exciting new Pyramid spa and restaurant
complex behind a massive stained-glass window. Bur Juman, Lamcy
Plaza and Al Ghurair are the other three top malls, but the last
will be undergoing redevelopment for the next few years.
Where to walk
Deira’s covered Gold Souk is a good place to start wandering, and
when you’ve pottered round the multiple gold stalls, nearby is the
Spice Souk and numerous other forms of retail. Vivid colours and
exotic aromas hijack the senses amidst a cacophony of bartering and
chatter, while futuristic shopping plazas with elevators, piped
music and expensive fashion shops contrast with the neighbouring
alleys harbouring a chaotic assembly of spice-sellers, jewellers,
textile merchants and carpetbaggers. At Al Has St the road sweeps
close to the mouth of the Creek, where you can pause to watch the
water traffic chugging up and down. Stop in at the St George’s
Hotel for a drink and a snack. Walk inland from the dhow quays and
abra stops near the Carlton Tower Hotel, along Beniyas Road, past
the Inter-Continental Hotel, the Twin Towers mall, Sheraton and
stunning new buildings like the National Bank of Dubai and Dubai
Chamber of Commerce and Industry. There are benches at the
atmospheric, purpose-built dhow port next to Maktoum
Bridge. For the less energetic, a trip along the Creek in an
abra is recommended. For about Dh40-50 you can hire a boat and
captain for the hour-long tour. Most trips go to the mouth of the
Creek and back to the dock. Note the splendid waterside palaces of
the ruling Al Maktoum family on the banks. Back on dry land, spend a
while wandering around the docks. The scene is animated and noisy,
with all manner of precious cargo being handled, alongside fresh
vegetables and fish. The Creekside Park, next to Wonderland, offers
a contrasting taste of greenery, while Riqqa Rd, Diyafah St and,
most recently, Al Muteena St have been refurbished. They each boast
wide pavements choc-a-bloc with interesting boutiques and cafés.
The Jumeirah public beach is another option.
Weather and Climate
The best weather is between Oct and Apr, when coastal temperatures
hover around 24ºC-25ºC. It will be slightly warmer inland, but
still comfortable. Nights can get cold, but rain is rare.
Temperatures in May-Sept are invariably hot, well in excess of 40ºC
and occasionally peaking around 50ºC at midday. Humidity can also
top 90%, making it unpleasant outdoors for most of the day and
night. Bottled drinking water is the accessory of necessity at this
time of year, and can be bought almost everywhere.