City Information
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Airport
Damascus International Airport is 18 miles south-east of the city.
Flight time from London is 7 hrs 30 mins (with a 3-hr stopover
in Amman). Facilities include: banking/exchange, restaurants and
snack bars, taxi desk and tourist information. The Damascus
Duty Free Shop, accessible both by arrivals and departures, offers
the cheapest duty free shopping facility in the Middle East.
Syrian currency, however, is not accepted; payments should be made
in US dollars or with credit cards.
Airport to City Centre
There is a kiosk next to the money exchange booth that deals with
taxis. Buy a ticket for S£400 and present it to your
taxi driver as you get in. The 25km trip takes about 35 min.
Orientation
Damascus has a population of approximately 3 million, swelled by an
estimated 1 million commuters during the day. Downtown Damascus lies
between Yousof Al Azmeh Sq and At Tajrida Al Maghribiya Sq. Its
principal streets are: Ayyar St, which runs between the two squares;
Borsiad St, the continuation of Ayyar St between Yousof Al Azmeh Sq
and Ash Sham Sq; Aththawra St which runs north-south from the
wooded area in the north-east of the city to the Old City east of
downtown; Baghdad St, between At Tajrida Al Maghribiya Sq and
At Tahrir Sq; and Shukri Al Quatli St, the southern border of
downtown linking the giant Al Umawiyeen roundabout to the
Beirut Rd in the west and to Ash Sham Sq and Aththawara St in the
east. The streets around Yousof Al Azmeh Sq are cluttered with
small restaurants and budget hotels. This is also the
principal commercial district and home to the major banks and
airline offices. The embassy district of Al Muhajirin lies to
the north-west of Yousof Sq around Abil Ala Sq and Zannobia
Park. A mile west of downtown, the Old City contains most of the
best
sights, notably the Damascus Citadel (take a taxi). Partial remains
of the old wall can still be seen, as can seven of the gates.
You will also find some ancient mosques, the most spectacular of
which is the Omayad Mosque, which is located in the square of
the same name. Major conferences and international business events
are held at the Damascus International Fair, a complex of modern
halls abutting the university to the west of Yousof Sq. The
Barada River runs along the northern flank of the site, overlooked
by the Meridien Hotel. The Bridge of Arrais Hafez Al Assad
spans the river on the eastern edge of the Fair, linking Al Jala
St to the university. Tishrin Park, east of the Al Umawiyeen
roundabout, is the best place to stretch your legs. For
more information drop into the Tourist Information Office on
Ayyar St between Yousof Al Azmeh Sq and At Tajrida Al Maghribiya Sq.
Getting Around
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Unmetered private taxis (blue licence plates) are only available
from hotels and charge double the regular fare. They
are air-conditioned and quite comfortable. Fares should be
agreed before setting off. Public taxis (yellow cabs) are not
air-conditioned, but are metered. Most local trips cost less than
S£40 in shared taxis which run to all parts of the country
from the rank near the university in Filastin St. Hiring a car costs
about £20 per day, but be warned: never drive at night –
deep potholes are everywhere and it is common practice for
headlights not to be switched on. There are several bus
services. Destinations are written above the windscreen in Arabic
only and charge from S£5 for a trip
inside the city.
What to see
Most of the ancient sites and monuments are located within the Old
City walls. The area is characterised by narrow, dusty lanes
and fine architecture.
Citadel: This imposing structure towers over the western
part of the Old City. It was built during the 13c as a
stronghold against the invading Tartars, Crusaders and Mongols.
Its exterior walls still stand proud, though much of the interior
is ruined.
Souks: The biggest souk is Al Hamidieh, located between the
Citadel and the Omayad Mosque and renowned for its
traditional goods and hand-made crafts. Al-Salihieh souk, the
fruit and vegetable market near the Muhiddin Mosque, is a good
example of how the souks have tended to evolve in the shadow of
the mosques. The Handicrafts souk, in the Al Takya Building, is
the place to see Syria’s craftsmen at work: glass blowing,
wood carving and textile weaving all take place in a cat’s cradle
of narrow alleys.
Ancient Gates and Ramparts: The Old City is enclosed by a
fortified wall and several gates (eg Bab Tuma, Bab Sharqi and Bab Kissan).
The original wall is best seen around Bab Sharqi, through which St
Paul left Damascus (see Where to Walk). You cannot fail to be
impressed by this gate’s size and beautiful architecture. Also
worth seeing are the Tetrapil Archway, the Al Azem Palace and
the Darwish Pasha Mosque.
Omayad Mosque: Comprising a triumvirate of minarets, one
dome and some fine mosaic panels. The tomb of St John the Baptist
is the main attraction, but time should also be found to visit
the museum which houses the relic of the Temple of Jupiter
the Damascene and the tomb of Saladin.
Hanania Chapel: Hanania figures strongly in the story of St
Paul’s conversion to Christianity along the road to Damascus.
The chapel is underground; the walls and ceiling are made of
rock. The chapel served as a sanctuary to Saint Ananias, and
is regarded as the most important Christian edifice in the
city. St Paul’s Church is also nearby.
Al Takya al Sulaymanya: Famous for its majestic dome, pair
of graceful minarets and superb, formal gardens. Located off
Al Barudi St near the Bridge of Arrais Haffez Al Assad.
National Museum: one of the world’s great collections of
archaeological material was founded in 1919 in conjunction with
the Arab Academy in the Madrasa al-Adeliya. Particularly
noteworthy is the formidable array of largely classical-period
sculpture in the museum gardens.
Salhyieh Quarter: The historic importance of this quarter is
indicated by the 70 officially recognised monuments,
a significant proportion of the 250 or so for Damascus as a
whole. The Salhyieh quarter, essentially without defensive
walls, was sorely affected by the three great Mongol invasions
of the Mameluke period. The major historic monuments of Salhyieh quarter
are: the Nebi Yunis Mausoleum, Hammam al-Moqaddam, Imaret of Sultan
Suleiman, Mausoleum of Sheik Mohi Eddin, Madrasa Omarieh,
Madrasa Sahibieh, and Maristan Nur-Eddin.
Public baths: the Hammam (or public bath) goes back hundreds
of years in the Middle East and are quite widespread as far
as Turkey. The best example of the hammam is the Nour Eddin Al
Shaheer within Bzouriah market, recently restored to its
original splendour. For S£320 customers can experience a
Syrian sauna, scrub and massage followed by a nice cup of tea. Men
only. Cafés:These play a traditional role in Syrian society,
rather like the pub in Britain. Most are situated around the
main squares like Nawfara Sq, east of Omayad Mosque.
Specialities include aromatic tea and coffee and the famous narjileh,
or hubble-bubble pipes.
Shopping
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The main shopping districts for clothes, shoes and jewellery in
Damascus are Salhia and Hamra (open Sat-Thurs) and Kassa (open
Mon-Sat). All products are Syrian-made, even when they carry
international trade marks like Adidas and Benetton. The main
gold market is located in Harika Sq, selling mostly very attractive
hand-made items. Modern shops selling international clothing
brands are replacing the traditional bazaars of the old souks. If
you need to go shopping on Fri, the best place to visit is the
Christian area near Bab Touma.
Where to walk
The Old City encompasses a remarkable collection of ancient gates,
mosques and Christian churches spanning all the different civilisations
that are woven into the fabric of this city’s long and varied
history. Starting from Al Yousof Sq in the New City centre,
walk down Al Azmeh St, cross Al It’tihad St and continue down to
Ash Shuhada Sq, where there is an interesting archaeological
site (its accessibility depends on current activity). Many of the
relics from the site are displayed in the National
Archaeological Museum near the university. Leaving the square
on the south side, cut down any of the narrow alleys which run into
An Nasr St, the busiest road (particularly around the former
railway station, where there’s now an attractive café). Turn left
and walk up to the bank at the top of the road. From here the
impressive Citadel looms up ahead across Aththawra St. Turn right on
Aththawra and go past a couple of banks on the right to Bab Al
Gabia, the first of the seven gates. Walk through it and head down
Madhat Basha St (the supposed home of John the Baptist). After
500m take a left down a small side alley, and wander through the
souk to the Omayad Mosque.
Back outside, take a small street running west, past the Museum of
Medicine and Sciences and, in an alley off to the right, there’s
the magnificent Dar Al Haddeeth Mosque. You are now beneath the
Citadel. From the Citadel, head south again through the souk
area back to Bab Al Gabia and pick up the route of the old wall.
This can be followed right the way round the city via the
various gates. You should pass, in order: Bab Al Sagir, Bab Kissan,
the superb Bab Sharqi, Bab Tuma, Bab Al Salam, Bab Al Faradis
and Bab Al Faraj. Not all are that easy to distinguish, but Bab
Sharqi is a great monument and allegedly St Paul’s route out
of the city after his conversion. This is a long walk – about 6-7
km – so allow at least 3 hours. Due to the excessive heat in
the middle of the day you should aim to explore the city either in
the morning or in the evening.
Malki, west of Damascus on the slopes of Mt Kassioun, is the home of
President Hafez al-Assad. Do not take photographs in this area
or anywhere with military associations.
Weather and Climate
The climate is Mediterranean with hot, dry summers and mild, wet
winters close to the coast. Inland it gets progressively drier.
In Damascus average temperatures Jun-Sept range from 15°C to 42°C,
Nov-Apr 0°C to 20°C.
At a Glance
Damascus has more than 200 mosques, 70 of which are still in
use. By a presidential resolution, any kind of advertisement
for cigarettes is prohibited in the media. Education in
Syria is free at all levels, and compulsory for all children in
primary education. Damascus is said to be the oldest
continuously inhabited city in the world – since 2500BC.
One of the oldest alphabets in the world was discovered at Ugarit,
near Latakia. The young man sometimes shown in posters with the
President is his second son, Bashar. His elder son, Basil, was
tragically killed in a car crash in 1994. First-time visitors
to Syria are struck by the number of portraits of the President on
public display. Syria’s population increase (3.7% a
year) is one of the world’s highest.
Conscription is for 30 months.
The decoration of the magnificent portico at Syon House, home of the
Duke of Northumberland, was inspired by the ruins
of Palmyra.
Over 49% of the population are under 15 – compared with 19% in the
UK and France. Major holidays in Syria: 1 January, 8 March, 17
April, 6 May, 23 July, 1 September, 6 October, 25 December and
variable days including Eid-al-Adha (3 days), end of Ramadan (4
days) and Muslim New Year.
City Map