City Information
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Airport
Cairo International Airport is 22 km north-east of central Cairo.
The airport is fairly standard, though there are the usual 24-hour
duty free stores, several restaurants, banks and souvenir shops.
Getting through customs and passport control is not as traumatic as
it first appears, though do not be surprised to see occasional
travellers walk boldly to the front for prior treatment. Terminal 1
and Terminal 2 are 3 km apart, Terminal 1 being the better equipped.
Terminal 1 is primarily for Egypt Air international and domestic
flights while Terminal 2 is for most major European and American
carriers.
Airport to City Centre
The best way to avoid hassle is to take a fixed-price
‘Limousine’ – not all the cars are limousines though – that
is simply the name of the company. However, the non-limousine cars
are air-conditioned and comfortable. Several companies operate out
of both terminals, although you could consider booking a transfer
with your travel management company, thereby avoiding the queues at
arrivals and the need for local currency. Registered taxis are black
and white. Fares should be negotiated before setting off but, as a
rule of thumb, pay no more than E£30 to any destination in Cairo,
and even less for the city centre. If you are staying in a hotel
near the pyramids, E£40-50 is a fair price.
Orientation
Cairo is a densely populated city heaving with approximately 18
million people. However, despite the massive number of people, the
incredible volume of traffic and the apparent confusion, Cairo
isn’t as difficult to get around as it first appears. Tahrir Sq is
at the centre of Cairo. From there, you can easily reach Downtown,
which is relatively representative of typical Cairo. Heading east
through Downtown will lead you to Islamic Cairo, which harbours
small communities of people whose life doesn’t seem to have
changed in centuries. Islamic Cairo has existed since mediaeval
times and this is reflected in the architecture, although an upsurge
in shanty buildings a small way east has made the area slightly less
appealing.
Garden City, south of Tahrir Sq, is an embassy filled area with
tree-lined streets and little else. Coptic Cairo is further south of
Garden City. Zamalek is on an island (Gezirah) in the centre of the
Nile and is primarily a foreigner’s refuge. Although if little
interest to tourists, the majority of high-end restaurants and
hotels will be found in this area. Both Mohandiseen and Dokki also
have little to offer the average tourist, apart from a plethora of
eateries. Giza is home to the Pyramids and offers a wealth of
souvenir buying potential.
Getting Around
Finding one of the black and white taxis is no problem; paying a
reasonable fair, getting lost, erratic driving and clapped out old
cars are of more concern. Always state your destination before
getting in the taxi. The rule of thumb is if the driver asks you how
much you are going to pay then he’s trying to rip you off. Honest
drivers do not generally discuss fares and will accept what you give
them at the end of the journeyEgyptians pay at least 30% less, so do
not to give the driver more as he is already ahead of himself.
Always pay your fare through the passenger window and walk away if
the driver starts to complain. Female passengers should never sit in
the passenger seat. For the uninitiated, most hotels have their own
taxis, which are much safer, although they are also prohibitively
expensive compared to street taxis. You are unlikely to get lost
though. ‘Limousines’ are another expensive but safe option and
can be hired for the day, though note that most are not actual
limousines – this is just the name given to cars hired with
drivers.
What to see Biljett -
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It would need an entire book to discuss adequately the wealth of
sites and museums in this astonishing city. Suffice to say, there
are three must-sees: Giza (pyramids and Sphinx), the Egyptian
Antiquities Museum and the Citadel.
The Citadel: Spectacular mediaeval fortress perched on a hill
above Saladin Sq, home of the rulers of Egypt until the late 19c and
now a complex of museums and mosques. Saladin originally built the
fort to guard against the invading crusaders in 1176. Mohammed Ali
later flattened many of the Mamluk buildings and built in their
stead his own mosque and palace. Housed in the northern enclosure
are the War Museum, the Carriage Museum and the Mosque of Suleyman
Pasha. The southern enclosure is connected by the Al Qullah Gate.
Directly opposite this gate is the Mosque of An Nasir, with
Joseph’s Well behind. Al Gawharah Palace and Museum, within the
grounds, are particularly worth visiting. The clock tower and the
ramparts alongside the Al Gawharah are the best of the viewing
points during the tour. Entrance is via either Al Gadid Gate or Al
Muqattam Gate, near the car park.
Pyramids and The Sphinx: The three pyramids and Sphinx were
built 4,500 years ago. The Pyramid of Cheops, at 137.1 m, is the
tallest; the Pyramid of Chephren measures 136.6 m; and the smallest,
the Pyramid of Mycerinus, measures just 62 m. The Sphinx is the
largest of its kind in the Nile Valley and was carved from a single
piece of sandstone. If you go during the winter, dress for the cold
as the desert air can be very chilly.
Saqqara Step Pyramid: Slightly out of the way, about 25 km
south west of Cairo, is Saqqara, a place well worth visiting. When
it was built in 2700 BC, the Step pyramid of King Zoser was the
largest pyramid yet built. It lies in the northern part of Saqqara
and is 544 m high by 277 m wide. Getting there by taxi will cost
about E£70. Admission is E£20, plus another E£10 to enter new
tombs and about E£10 for a camel or horse ride, in case you feel
like visiting the southern part of Saqqara as well. If you have the
time it is worth spending more than just one day in this area.
Egyptian Antiquities Museum: The main attraction here is the
treasure from Tutankhamen’s tomb, discovered in the Valley of the
Kings by English archaeologist Howard Carter in 1922. The tomb
itself contains only the pharaoh’s mummified body, a coffin and
stone sarcophagus, but there are 1,800 other items spread about the
museum. Note also exhibitions of mummies and coffins, statues from
ancient Egypt, solar barques and a large collection of Greco-Roman
coins. There is an impressive separate Mummies Hall. Tahrir Sq, next
to Nile Hilton Hotel.
Cairo Tower: On a clear day you can see the pyramids at Giza
(32 km away) from the coffee shop at the top of this 185-m-high
tower on Gezirah Island.
Mosque of Al Hakim: The Islamic district is packed with
wonderful mosques, many from the early 11c. This one was completed
in 1010, for and during the reign of the third Fatimid caliph Al
Hakim (996-1021), who was best known for his insanity. The mosque
was only quite recently restored as a house of prayer. Previously it
served various purposes, including – ironically – that of a
madhouse.
Mohammed Mahmoud Khalil Museum: Popularly know as the Mahmoud
Khalil Museum, it contains several great Rodin sculptures, a decent
collection of French Impressionist works and some contemporary
Egyptian art.
Khan Al Khalili: This is one of the biggest bazaars in the
world, comprising a vast tangle of alleys, shops and market stalls.
After the Ottoman conquest, it became a fully fledged Turkish
bazaar, selling perfumes, glassware, leather goods and fabrics. The
exquisite coloured glassware is unique in its class. Go for the
experience rather than the kitsch tourist souvenirs. In Al Gamaliya
in the streets leading off Al Azhar Sq (Midan). After wandering
round the bazaar you might want to stop at one of Cairo’s oldest
coffee houses, Fishawi, close to Midan Hussein Sq, for some Turkish
coffee and narghile. If you are hungry the Naguib Mahfouz café on
Sikkat Al Badistan St offers a great atmosphere as well as very good
Middle Eastern food.
Felucca Trips: For a romantic evening and a great way to see
the city and the Nile, hire a felucca boat. Powered by triangular
lateen sails, they travel at a pleasantly sedate pace. Your hotel
will rent one for you for the evening and provide a picnic with wine
and cold food for parties of two to 20. Alternatively, go down to
the river and book one yourself for about E£80 for 4 hrs: you’ll
find a number of these graceful boats near the Cairo Méridien
Hotel. There’s no finer way to see the city.
Cruise Vessel Restaurants: There are a number of cruise
vessels, including the recommended Pharaohs, which serve lunch and
dinner while you are cruising down the Nile. There are several
Pharaoh boats.
Shopping
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In central Cairo, the main shopping streets are Mohammed Farid St,
Talaat Harb St and Al Kasr Al Nil St, off Talaat Harb Sq, where many
of the international fashion chains can be found. Prices are often
considerably lower than in London. For a more Egyptian flavour and a
colourful atmosphere, head for the gigantic Khan Al Khalili bazaar.
Other interesting khans are the tentmakers’ bazaar and the
coppersmiths’ bazaar, where one can admire the craftsmen at work.
Best buys are brass trays inlaid with copper or silver and incised
with Arabic calligraphy and Islamic designs. Other notables include
brass or copper gongs, candlesticks, lamps and coffee pots. There
are a number of interesting antique book stalls, mostly at Opera Sq
or at The Orientalist in Qasr Al Nil St. The Orientalist also sells
fine old prints and maps.
Other top shops are: Al Ghaffer, for scarves and leatherware,
at 73 Gawhar Al Kayeed St; and Saad, for silver, at 10 Shwalkar
Building in the Khan Al Khalili, with a branch in the Ramses Hilton
Hotel. In Old Cairo, to the south beyond Roda Island, there is a
good souvenir shop near the Church of St Serguis. If you are not in
the mood for a trip to Khan Al Khalili, but you are looking for
traditional Egyptian handicrafts, Marketing Link on Zamalek island
is the place to go, with scores of authentic handicraft products
available, from tapestries to wooden carvings. Recently opened on
the Corniche is the new Arcadia Shopping Mall, which offers
comprehensive modern shopping. It’s handy to know that there’s a
cash machine in the main entrance.
Where to walk
The best areas to explore on foot are the Old City, 3 miles south of
central Cairo, the Islamic district of Ghuriya to the east of the
centre, the citadel, south-east of Saladin Sq, and the pleasant,
tree-lined streets of Zamalek and Garden City. Street maps of the
individual areas are widely available from hotel receptions, major
tourist attractions and major bookshops.
Weather and Climate
Cairo is in the ‘arid zone’, which means it receives hardly any
rainfall and has a desert climate – hot days (20ºC-36ºC), but
reasonably cool at night. The winter months are delightful, with
February and March the best of all. Summers are very hot and dry.
Expect sandstorms in April and May when the scorching Khamsin winds
blow.