City Information
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Airport
Otopeni International Airport is located some 20km north of the city
centre. Extensive refurbishment included an extension to the west of
the main terminal serving British Airways, Air France, KLM, and
Austrian Airlines, among others. Flight time from London is 3 hrs 20
mins.
Baneasa airport is Bucharest’s domestic terminal, midway between
the city and Otopeni. Most flights are operated by Tarom,
Romania’s national airline. There are daily weekday departures to
several cities including Timisoara, Cluj, Iasi, Oradea and Suceava.
Internal flights are the most efficient way of doing business
outside the capital, since rail travel in Romania is frustratingly
slow.
Duty-free facilities are adequate, though the gift shops in the
departure lounges tend to be more expensive than elsewhere in
Romania. There is a well-stocked, reasonably priced mini-supermarket
on the arrival floor with a newspaper kiosk close by, plus Avis and
several banks and bureaux de change. Dining possibilities extend
only as far as cafeterias.
Airport to City Centre
Taxis wait outside the main terminal exit. The 25-min journey
into Bucharest should cost around $12-$15, although it might take
persistent bargaining skills for the driver to agree to this price.
Alternatively, Sky offers shared and private limousine services for
between $10 and $30, and can arrange the return trip. Look for the
desks near the exits of the arrival lounges. The municipal RATB city
bus service 783 departs at half-hour intervals and costs 50c for the
40-min journey to Piata Unirii, stopping en route at the Hotel
Sofitel, Piata Victoriei, Piata Romana and university. Buy your
ticket from the kiosk immediately outside the main terminal exit.
The AIBO shuttle bus costs $1 per person.
Orientation
Bucharest has experienced rapid growth over the past three decades
and is now home to 2.3 million people, equivalent to 10% of
Romania’s population. However, the city centre has remained
compact and easily negotiable on foot. Sadly, much of Bucharest’s
historical centre was ripped out to make way for former dictator
Ceausescu’s massive People’s Palace – the world’s largest
building after the Pentagon in Washington – and the Civic Centre
of government buildings, offices and apartment blocks that surround
it. This project is slowly being completed and dominates the area
south of the Lipscani district.
Bulevardul Lascar Catargiu is an elegant street of embassies and
villas situated south of Piata Victoriei. Leading off the
north-western side of this square is Primavara, one of Bucharest’s
best preserved districts, home to many former communist officials,
embassies and diplomats. South of the square, Calea Victoriei heads
down to the main banking and financial district. Off to the east of
the street is the historic Lipscani area, home to some of the oldest
buildings in the city as well as street markets, antique and art
shops, antiquarian bookshops as well as many banks, insurance
companies and offices. To the north of the Lipscani area, Piata
Universitate (University Sq) was the scene of some of the most
important moments in the 1989 revolution. Towering over the square
is the Hotel Inter-Continental, one of Bucharest’s landmark
buildings. North of the hotel is Bulevardul Magheru, a busy shopping
street that’s also home to several hotels and restaurants.
Excursions Paket Resor -
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On a hot summer’s day, follow the locals to Lake Snagov, some 30km
north of the city, off the road leading to Ploiesti and Sinaia. The
lake is lined with houses of the well-to-do, several of them
belonging to the State including the villa once used by the late
Nicolae Ceausescu and his wife Elena, but there remain enough open
spaces for a pleasant walk. Closer to hand – and equally popular
– is Lake Herestrau in the northern suburbs of Bucharest, with
entrances to the park at Piata Aviatorilor, Arcul de Triompf and
near Casa Scintei. Boating, fishing and other water sports are on
offer, and for the land-lover there are several cafés, restaurants
and nightspots.
The village of Mogosoia is a good place to delve into Romanian
history. Constantin Brincoveanu, a 17c Romanian prince and one of
the country’s best-known pre-independence leaders and patrons of
the arts, built his palace here, while the grounds have been adapted
to form a sculpture park for the vast Soviet-style statues of
communist heroes and leaders torn down after 1989.
Getting Around
Metered taxis can be hailed on the street or at taxi ranks
outside the major hotels. Try to keep to the more reliable licensed
taxis, which display a registration number in a white-on-black disc
painted on the door. Expect fares to rise by 35c every km, though
this can vary considerably, so check the price before you set off.
Public transport is reliable and inexpensive, albeit dilapidated and
crowded. The bus and tram network is extensive and complemented by a
fairly comprehensive 3-line metro system. In the city centre, the
blue M2 line connects stations in Piatas Victoriei, Romana,
Universitate and Unirii, while the northern ends of the red M1 and
green M3 lines converge on Gara de Nord, the main train station. Bus
tickets are bought in yellow RATB booths located near main stops,
and metro tickets purchased in stations, either for single journeys
or the better value re-usable travelcards.
What to see
Muzeul Satului: The Village Museum offers an interesting
illustration of Romania’s rich rural heritage and traditions, plus
an excellent gift shop selling traditional handicrafts and clothing.
Founded in 1936, this was one of the first ethnographic museums in
the world, with almost 300 authentic rural buildings brought from
all over Romania and set in a 10-hectare park on the edge of Lake
Herastrau.
Muzeul Taranului Roman: The former Museum of the Communist
Party re-opened as the Peasant Museum in the early 1990s under
director Horea Bernea. Since re-opening, the imaginative and moving
display depicting the traditional lifestyle and Christianity of the
Romanian peasant has won local and international acclaim, including
the European Museum of the Year award. Bernea and his team have
expanded the museum’s historical collection, collecting new
material threatened with obliteration – from handmade peasant’s
clothing, embroidery, and woodwork, to recordings of traditional
music and a wooden church.
National Gallery: Shooting and fire damage sustained during
the 1989 revolution scuppered the consistent renovation this
building has undergone since it was the seat of the Romanian royal
household following independence in 1878. Among the masters old and
modern, the permanent collections include: ancient Romanian
art from the 10c to 16c; 19c and 20c Romanian art, including work by
Brancusi; 14c-18c Italian works and 16c-18c Spanish schools,
including work by El Greco, Murillo, and Velasquez.
George Enescu Music Museum: Worth visiting as much for its
architecture as for its collection, this impressive
turn-of-the-century villa honours composer and musician George
Enescu, whose pupils included Yehudi Menuhin. Every three years,
Romania holds an international Enescu music festival, the last of
which in 1998 attracted Menuhin and the Chicago Symphony Orchestra,
among others.
Casa Poporului: Nicolae Ceausescu’s vast palace – the
world’s second largest building – is now open to the public.
Incomplete at the time of the dictator’s execution in 1989,
finishing the parliament and constitutional court has been something
of a burden on post-communist Romania. Guided tours of the west wing
are available, with some awe-inspiring statistics. Strada Izvor.
Churches: Dotted amid the communist tower blocks that form
the dominant motif of Bucharest’s urban landscape are some very
beautiful churches, well worth stopping to visit: Cretulescu, built
1720-22, Bucur, built in the first half of the 18c, Stavropoleos,
built in the 1720s, and Sfintu Gheorghe Nou, built in the late 17c.
Shopping Paketresa -
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Travel
Bucharest has not traditionally been one of Europe’s premier
shopping destinations, but things have definitely improved with the
opening of Bucharest’s first large, Western-style mall, situated
off Piata Unirii at 55-59 Calea Vitan. This four-floor mall has
dozens of boutiques, outlets of international chains like the Body
Shop, a food court, an internet café, a dry cleaners, a
supermarket, and a multi-screen cinema, all in one handy location.
If you don’t fancy the city’s fledgling consumer culture, there
are some attractive local handicrafts worth looking out for.
Tablecloths, woven rugs and other embroidered items are sold in
Artizanat shops all over the centre. These tend to stock identical
items, but one of the larger outlets is on Calea Victoriei next to
the Hotel Continental. The giftshops of the Village Museum and
Peasant Museums sell an even wider range of traditional goods
including pottery, books and icons.
There are several good antiquarian bookshops in Bucharest, including
a section in the bookshop at Sala Dalles on Magheru. For antiques
and work by local artists, including icons, head for Hanul cu Tei, a
small arcade of shops in the Lipscani area just south of the banking
district.
The local industry of high-quality textile production for export
means that local retail outlets have sprung up offering designer
clothing at reasonable prices. For ladies’ wear, try Stephanie
Anais at 35 Bulevardul Balcescu, just down from Piata Romana.
Where to walk
Bucharest lacks the architecture of Prague or Budapest. Built on
a far less grand scale, much of the historic centre was destroyed by
Ceausescu’s megalomaniac building schemes. Nevertheless, the city
has many lovely churches and some beautiful early 20c villas in
attractive residential districts.
Lipscani is one of the oldest surviving districts of the city and
the faded splendour of the ornate architecture attests to the wealth
of Bucharest’s former merchant classes. A walk around the area
should include the palace ruins of Curtea Veche, and finish off with
a beer at Hanul Manuc. Now home to a restaurant and offices, this
was built in 1808 as a trading centre and stopover point for
merchants travelling between East and West by a rich Armenian
trader. Spacious and very attractive, the building is constructed
round a large courtyard, and in summer, meals can be taken outdoors
on the first floor gallery.
Another interesting way to spend a couple of hours is walking the
length of Calea Victoriei, one of the most historically interesting
streets, ending in Piata Revolutiei with its former royal palace,
the National Library, the Athenaeum and the Cretulescu church.
Cismigiu Gardens is an elegantly landscaped park to the east of
Piata Revolutiei, thronged in summer with chess-playing pensioners.
Weather and Climate
Romanian winters tend to be very cold, with snow and temperatures
well below freezing, usually accompanied by a bitter easterly wind
from Nov to Feb. Summers are very hot, with temperatures often
reaching and sometimes exceeding 40°C in Jul and Aug.
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