City Information
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Boka flygstol - biljett -
Queensway
Travel
Airport
MR Stefanik international airport is located in an eastern suburb of
Bratislava called Vrakuna, about 15km from downtown. It is still
relatively small but services are expanding all the time. Currently
available are parking, post office, bank, money exchange, luggage
deposit, car-rentals, restaurant, bar, duty free, barber shop, first
aid. Many business travellers and tourists elect to fly into
Vienna’s Schwechat airport, which is only 60km from Bratislava and
offers a greater range of services and flight connections.
Airport to City Centre
Taxis from Vienna airport, if Slovak, cost between 2,000 and
2,500 Slovak crowns (Sk). The bus service to Bratislava runs every 2
hrs, and costs 95 Austrian schillings (Sk285). Bratislava Airport
Taxi takes travellers direct from the airport; expect a drive
downtown to cost Sk200-300 and take 15-20 mins. If you do end up
flying into Bratislava, you may find the occasional taxi waiting
outside the terminal. Taxis often have to be summoned, however, and
the service least likely to cheat you is Oto Taxi. Reckon on about
Sk200-300, depending on where in the centre you want to go. Taxis
are twice as expensive when hailed in the street. Bus connections to
the airport are few but reliable – every 20 mins on weekdays and
every 25 mins on weekends and holidays. The bus drops you at the
Sport Hall on Bajkalska St, which is still quite a walk from
downtown.
All in all, a taxi is by far the best bet from the airport –
public transport is slow, confusing and not user-friendly. If you do
decide to bus it, make sure you buy a ticket. Make sure you also
punch your ticket when you board the bus: unshaven and hostile
ticket inspectors enjoy pouncing on unsuspecting tourists and fining
them Sk1,000 for not having a valid ticket. Be prepared, or avoid
potential hazards by purchasing a 7-day pass from the Transit
Authority for Sk200 from the main train station or the underpass
beside Hotel Forum.
Orientation
Bratislava is dominated by two geographic features – the
Danube River, which bisects the city, and the Small Carpathian
mountains, which form the northern border of the capital. These
natural features have produced Bratislava’s most visible man-made
landmarks – the city’s four bridges, which span the Danube and
link Bratislava proper with the hideous suburb of Petrzalka, and the
Kamzik television tower, which looms over the city from its perch on
a mountain ridge to the north.
If you are driving, two roads will be important to you – the E-65,
which starts out as Stefanikova St downtown and goes west through
the Dubravka suburb to Brno and Prague in the Czech Republic, and
the E-58, which goes over the Novy Most, through Petrzalka and over
the Austrian border to Vienna. The only other noteworthy Bratislava
landmark is the castle, which is perched on a hill beside the
parliament building and above the old town. It looks a little like
an upside-down table.
Excursions - Lågprisflyg -
Queensway
Travel
One of the best excursions is the inexpensive hydrofoil trip up the
Danube to Vienna. Another eye-opener is an excursion to the massive
Gabcikovo hydroelectric dam near the Hungarian border; it is
currently the subject of a fierce dispute between Hungary and
Slovakia. You could also make the trip to the ruins of Devin castle,
about 8km from downtown on the 29 bus.
Apart from nearby Vienna and Budapest, the immediate environs of
Bratislava do not have a great deal to offer the traveller. The best
of Slovakia lies a 4-hr trip away, in the central Slovak city of
Banska Bystrica, the spectacular High and Low Tatra mountain ranges
and the stunning beauty of Slovak Paradise (Slovenskù Raj). For
those with the time, a trip to the town of Kremnica is a charming
weekend getaway. Kremnica is an old mining town that has been
beautifully reconstructed without losing any of its small-town,
central-Slovak character. It offers a stunning variety of nature
walks, superb skiing, lost-in-time pubs and the frequent feeling
that you are no longer in Europe.
Getting Around
Public transport in Bratislava is reliable but slow. It was also not
designed with visitors in mind and can be a baffling experience. The
city is served by trams, trolleybuses and buses. Each ride costs you
a Sk10 ticket, which must be stamped in a punch machine fixed near
the doors upon entering the bus or tram. If any of the aggressive
and hostile ticket checkers catch you without a valid ticket, they
will make you pay a Sk1,000 fine on the spot. If you don’t have
the money, they will march you down to the police station. So make
sure you stamp your ticket! Most of what is worth seeing in
Bratislava, however, is located in a small reconstructed downtown
core that is not served by public transport. Known as the Stare
Mesto (Old Town), this area is the size of a postage stamp in
comparison with Prague’s splendid historical core, but well worth
exploring for all that.
If you do have to travel around the city, taxis are still cheap by
Western standards. Some will try to rip you off by not turning the
meter on and then claiming an outrageous total, so make sure the
meter is running before the driver pulls away. Taxis can be found at
most major hotels, major downtown intersections and outside the
Tesco store, but it is far better to call a cab than to hail one.
What to see
Perhaps the best place to start any sightseeing tour is Bratislava
Castle, which sits about 100m above the New Bridge (Novy Most) and
the Old Town. The castle hill was first used for a Slavic fortress
in 907; the present castle was built in 1427, suffered a fire in
1811 and was reconstructed in the 50s and 60s. After walking around
the castle, head down towards the Danube, where you will find the
Slovak National Museum almost directly below the castle. The museum
features permanent paleontology and anthropology exhibits, as well
as a fascinating series of temporary exhibits.
A short walk down the road towards the Old Bridge brings you to the
spectacularly ugly building that houses the Slovak National Gallery.
It chronicles the history of Slovak art and has some interesting
Renaissance pieces from eastern Slovakia’s Spis region. Almost
everything else that is worth seeing in Bratislava is to be found in
the Old Town. Check out, for example, the gorgeous Slovak National
Theatre, built 1884-86. It sits on the most famous Bratislava
square, across from the defunct Carlton Hotel, which is now being
reconstructed by a Belgian firm.
Heading further into the Old Town, be sure not to miss the bright
pink Primatial Palace. Inside is a collection of 17c and 18c
paintings and the Hall of Mirrors, where Napoleon and Emperor Franz
Jozef signed the Pressburg Peace Treaty after the Battle of
Austerlitz. The Primatial Palace sits beside one of the prettiest
buildings in Bratislava, the Old Town Hall and Town Museum. Here
Bratislava’s history can be traced through documents and exhibits,
including a blood-curdling cellar exhibition of torture instruments.
Afterwards, head through the passageway to the small Main Square
with its Roland fountain. Craftsmen’s stalls often line the
square, which is one of the busiest and prettiest downtown
locations. If you can avoid the temptation to pop into one of the
pubs that line the square, including The Dubliner Irish pub, make
your way towards the main street of the Old Town, Michalska St. Walk
up the street, past the pubs and swanky shops, until you reach the
unmistakable Michael’s Gate. The Town Museum of Weapons and City
Defence is located in Michael’s Gate Tower behind a plain wooden
door, and holds a fascinating collection of medieval weaponry. Be
sure to climb the tower for a sweeping view of the Old Town.
If you still have some energy left, look for a monument set on top
of the hill near the castle. Known as Slavin, this needle-like
column was erected by the communists to honour the Russian soldiers
killed during WWII. You can either walk up the hill, through
beautiful neighborhoods of old houses and cobbled streets, or take
bus 216 or 217 from Hodzovo Square to the Red Cross stop. The view
from the monument and the beautiful gardens that surround it is
spectacular.
For anyone interested in a sightseeing tour of a different sort, the
suburb of Petrzalka offers a glimpse into Slovakia’s dreary
socialist past. With its massive concrete housing blocks,
canyon-like streets and utter lack of architectural variety,
Petrzalka is one of the ugliest and most depressing places in
Slovakia. It houses a population with the highest average education
level and the highest wage level in the country – and with the
highest abortion, divorce and suicide rates as well.
Shopping - Boka resa - Queensway
Travel
The most recognisable shopping landmark in Bratislava is the Tesco
store, located just opposite the main SNP square. You know what
you’re going to get at Tesco, but there is still nowhere better to
find clothing, booze and groceries in a single store. Opposite Tesco,
on the city’s largest square, is an Old Market building.
Originally built in 1910, it was re-opened in Dec 1999 and houses
eveything from fresh fish and venison to hair stylists and a
brew-pub. Worth a stop on any shopping trip, if only to drink in the
period architecture.
For more typically Slovak items, try the shops that line Obchodna
St, the town’s main shopping strip. You’ll find a number of
souvenir stores that sell Slovakia’s best known product –
ceramics. Make sure you buy ceramics made in the town of Modra,
which is the most traditional and highest quality producer.
There’s lots to choose from in the Old Town as well, but the shops
tend to sell foreign goods and are usually hideously expensive. One
souvenir that you may want to bring back from Slovakia is alcohol.
Slovaks are great drinkers, and make some of the cheapest hooch in
the world. True Slovak varieties include slivovica, borovicka and
demanovka. These souvenirs can be found almost anywhere.
Where to walk
A tour of the Old Town is the walk that is most likely to
interest visitors to the city with time on their hands – see the
What to See section for further details. For an entirely different
perspective of the city, however, put on a comfortable pair of shoes
and strike out along the Danube River. Walk westwards away from the
Old Town until you get to the Lafranconi Bridge; climb the stairs
and cross the bridge to the Petrzalka side. There you will find a
bicycle and walking path; follow it in the direction of the Old
Town. The path will take you along the banks of the river, past a
small wood and then opposite the castle, the National Museum and the
rest of the Old Town hubbub. Seen from across the Danube on a sunny
day or a warm evening, Bratislava never looked so beautiful. The
walk can be cut short at the Old Bridge (Stary Most), which will
bring you back across the river to the buildings of the largest
Slovak university, Comenius University. Those with a bit more energy
can continue along the Petrzalka side to the Port Bridge (Pristavny
Most) – a walk which is far less pretty, but which takes you past
the seamy underside of Bratislava’s shipping terminals.
A second best bet is the town’s gorgeous Forest Park, which can be
reached by taking bus number 213 from Hodzovo Square to the last
stop. Hike up the road towards the television tower, which stands at
the entrance to the park at about 500m above sea level. The view of
Bratislava from here is spectacular, and the enormous park’s many
forest trails are the perfect antidote to any lingering urban
weariness.
Weather and Climate
Slovakia has a continental climate, meaning that the summers can be
scorchingly hot (July and August are frequently 35°C) and quite
humid. If you are visiting in the summer, cool clothing is an
absolute must, especially as relatively few restaurants and cars
have air-con. Winters, on the other hand, are more variable.
Temperatures can plummet to -25°C, or sit at a balmy 5°C for weeks
on end. It’s best to bring warm clothing. It starts to get quite
cold in early November, lasting until spring arrives at the end of
March.
City Map