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Airport

Beirut International Airport is 16 km south of the city. Flight time from London is under 5 hrs. BIA underwent a $500m post-war renovation and expansion scheme. It re-opened a few years ago and can now accommodate 6 million passengers annually. A further extension was opened recently, plus a VAT reimbursement office was recently set up at the airport, so travellers should keep bills that include this tax. Duty-free shops are available in both Departures and Arrivals.
Airport to City Centre
The newly opened Airport Rd links the airport to the city centre in around 10 mins. Private taxis can now be hired outside the airport for $10-$15 to anywhere within Beirut. Yellow airport taxis charge $30-$35 for the trip and have the advantage of drivers who speak English and are familiar with even the less-known hotels.
Orientation
The guns have long fallen silent in Beirut, and the line of demarcation between Muslim West and Christian East now exists only in a cultural sense, for the areas are hugely contrasting in both appearance and atmosphere. The East has seen more reconstruction and an influx of upscale restaurants, bars, clubs and shops, while the predominantly Muslima West has more shops and offices, plus a plethora of inexpensive eateries, though few bars. West Beirut has more of a Middle Eastern atmosphere than East Beirut, where westernised-looking residents tend to speak French over Arabic.
Between 1994 and 2001, downtown – the central district – was a massive construction site in the grip of a major urban redevelopment. Once the financial centre of the Middle East, it has been re-designed to be multifunctional and not just a central business district, inasmuch as Lebanon’s culture and cosmopolitan lifestyles are identified as the country’s major assets. Hence downtown has re-emerged as a high-end shopping district and is always bustling with activity. However, the draw isn’t so much commerce but leisure, thanks to the great many chic restaurants and cafés that have recently opened. Downtown is the only area with spacious pedestrian walkways in overly congested Beirut and is now fashionable for afternoon strolls and smoking narghile (hubble-bubble), particularly at outdoor cafés. The first phase of the project is about 90% complete and has tackled the construction of new infrastructure and the restoration of 265 buildings of architectural importance, including such landmarks as Nijmeh Sq and the Serail. Martyr’s Sq and the souks are the two key projects not yet constructed, save for underground parking. Work on the souks is set to begin following a two-year delay. Phase two, which involves the construction of luxury apartment buildings and hotels on vacant land, is now underway, and work on phase three, which deals with the development of reclaimed land, is expected to continue until 2018.
The areas of West Beirut closest to the central district are known as Ras Beirut, and include the Corniche (the seafront), rue Bliss and Hamra. The American University of Beirut (AUB) dominates the lively and cosmopolitan rue Bliss. South of the AUB is rue Hamra, the commercial district that used to be a smart shopping area but took over the role of downtown when the central district was flattened. The tourist office is on the first floor of the Ministry for Tourism in rue Banque de Liban, open daily 0800-1600, Tel: 343 073. There are several good hotels in the area and plenty of shops and restaurants.
South of Hamra are the residential neighbourhoods of Raouche and Verdun, home to the new Beiruti money, where luxury apartments fetch over $1m. Verdun is also a high-end shopping district, mainly for brand name clothes and accessories. In East Beirut the Ashrafieh district, south of the port between the Sursock Museum and Place Sassine, is the main commercial district and is noted for high-end shops and eateries. Banks and upscale shops are also found along the ave Charles Malek and around place Sassine, along with numerous cafés and eateries. Rue Monot rivals nearby downtown as Beirut’s entertainment centre, but its plethora of trendy eateries and bars draws a younger crowd of mostly 20-something revellers.
Finding one’s way around the city can be tricky because the same street can be spelt in different ways. This applies to most Arabic words translated into English, though note that it is more common to refer to westernised place names in French. For example, Raoche, Raoché, Rawche, Raowshe and even Raocheh are the same place. Moreover, streets have the confusing habit of changing names halfway along, thus rue Sidani becomes rue Souraty. There are a few address numbers and buildings that are commonly referred to by the name of their owners or builders.
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The famous religious site of Baalbeck in the Beqa’a Valley was consecrated by the Romans to Venus, Jupiter and Bacchus some 1,800 years ago, atop the original Phoenician site. It is one of the oldest seats of civilisation in the world. The main draw is the vast Temple of Jupiter, an awesome sight. Sadly, much of the town has been ruined by hideous new apartment blocks, piles of rubbish and building debris. After 25 years, the famous Baalbeck festivals have started again and are set to continue annually in July as before.
Byblos is a delightful ancient fishing village made up of winding alleys and tiny, paved back streets. Note the 12c Crusader castle and tower, both of which are open to visitors for a small entry fee. For fresh fish, drop in to Pepe’s Fishing Club, which also does good Mexican food, or Bab Al Mina, which also does tasty Lebanese cuisine. Byblos is an hour’s drive (30 km) on the coastal road north of Beirut, while Baalbeck is 2 hrs inland. We recommend you take a guide to both drive and show you around. Ask at your hotel reception for details of organised trips, or get them to recommend a private guide who will spend the day with you. Ideally, drive north up to the Cedars (150 km from Beirut), then cross over the Qornet Al Sawda, Mount Lebanon’s highest peak at 3,000 m overlooking the Beqa’a’s colourful patchwork, down to Baalbeck and back to Beirut.
Getting Around
City-registered taxis carry red number plates and ‘taxi’ signs on the roof. Bills have been passed to counteract the mass of non-registered cabbies in unmarked cars, but they are rarely enforced, so plenty still operate freely.
When stopping a taxi on the street, you can either say ‘taxi’ or ‘service’. ‘Taxi’ implies you want the car to yourself. Cabs don’t have meters, thus fares are negotiable. In general short trips cost L£5,000 and lengthy trips L£15,000. Less scrupulous drivers will charge foreigners more, so to avoid nuisances make sure to negotiate fares before entering cars. ‘Service’ means that you’ll be sharing the car with other passengers travelling in the same direction. Service rides are cheaper, at just L£1,000 for a fairly long run. However the drawback is that trips will be prolonged, as drivers usually opt for busy streets over highways in order to procure passengers. That means a slow driving pace to solicit pedestrians on sidewalks.
What to see
The Sursock Museum: While the museum itself is not up to much, the building in which it is housed is quite stunning. Note the wonderful stained-glass windows and carved wood panelling. The house itself is one of 30-odd Venetian-style homes built in the mid-20c.
The Hippodrome: During the war, a rather ugly stone wall was built around this city-centre racetrack, making it hard to spot. Try to visit for Sunday races when the place is a thriving gambling den. Entrance fees vary from $3 to $10 depending on the stand.
Central district: Commonly referred to as Solidere after the company directing its redevelopment, the renewed city centre boasts beautifully restored heritage buildings and landmarks, and archeological sites that will make up Beirut’s archeological trail. Some sites were unearthed during the major post-war reconstruction scheme, such as the Ancient Tell, which holds segments of a Bronze Age city gate, a Phoenician fortification wall, a Hellenistic tower and retaining wall, and parts of a Crusader castle. More sites have yet to be added, including a Roman bath house. Valuable artefacts unearthed during the construction are on display at The National Museum, which re-opened at the end of 1999 for the first time in 20 years.
Hammam an-Nuzha al-Jadid: A great Middle Eastern tradition, open 24 hrs, seven days a week for the full works of massage, sauna and baths. Soap, towels and a free drink are included in the price, but be prepared to tip the various attendants. Avoid at weekends when it gets very crowded. Off ave du Général Fouad Shehab. Price for full treatment approx L£30,000.
Mosques: The main mosques are located in the central district, an area which is presently undergoing extensive rebuilding. Many suffered serious damage during the war and are now in varying states of repair. Depending on when you go, it is worth visiting the following: Al-Omari Mosque, Amir Assaf Mosque, Amir Munzer Mosque, Majidiyeh Mosque.
Churches: The central district also houses old churches of historical significance, most of which were damaged during the war and are under restoration. They include the St George Orthodox Cathedral, which excavations reveal was built on top of an older church. Others worth visiting are the St Elie Catholic Cathedral, St George Maronite Cathedral, St Elie Maronite Church , All Saints Church and the Armenian Catholic Cathedral.
Shopping
The Lebanese War (1975-1990) decentralised many of the country’s different employment sectors, particularly shopping and entertainment, dispersing them outside the capital. The last few years have nevertheless witnessed a steady return of businesses to Beirut, and if not to the city centre, at least to some of its pre-war centres of activity.
In particular, the Hamra area has recreated itself as the most buzzy part of town, thanks to its cafés, countless retailers, and the close-by American University of Beirut campus on rue Bliss. Rue Hamra and its immediate vicinity offer a wealth of shopping experiences, from local crafts to imported Asian or African ware, silver and gold jewellery, or European designer wear. Quality and prices vary enormously from one shop to the other, but bargains can be had and the now yearly Lebanon Shopping Festival cuts all prices by 50% and, like Christmas and Ramadan periods, extends shopping hours to 2200 every night. Verdun is the Beirut equivalent of Mayfair. Designers like Donna Karan and Giorgio Armani have outlets in fashionable rue Verdun. European-style antique shops can be found near rue Abdel Wahab Al Englizi, while more traditional bric-a-brac and second-hand furniture are to be found in Basta. For affordable souvenir antiques, visit Abou Walid in Ayn Al Mraysseh for the immense collection ranging from silver cutlery found on sunken ships to art deco chandeliers or Ottoman sabres. For bargain jewellery, locally designed and made clothes and fake designer gear, head north-east to the Armenian district of Bourj Hammoud.
In Jnah district, there is a very popular BHV, a franchise of the French megastore. It’s good for DIY furnishings, hardware and houseware and also has clothes, cosmetics, electronics, toys, etc. Above is Monoprix supermarket. The districts of Ashrafieh and Sassine in East Beirut are renowned for upscale shops selling European designer clothing and other luxury goods. Do not buy a computer in Beirut. Most are assembled in Lebanon and contain fake parts somewhere along the line, a fact acknowledged even by computer dealers.
Where to walk
The most pleasant evening walks are through the residential streets of Ashrafieh, east of Beirut, where jasmine scents the air in spring and summer, especially near the Université St Joseph, and rue Abdel Wahab Al Englizi, closer to the old demarcation line, where a lively night scene has taken root.
A new magnet for strollers is the revived central district. Its beautifully restored heritage buildings are faithful to the original 1920s architecture and you can also find archeological sites and growing numbers of eateries and shops. Bear in mind that many parts of this district are still under construction. In recent years, Verdun has emerged as the Mayfair of Beirut, thanks to its numerous high-end shops and eateries. There are some delightful pavement cafés and restaurants abound on Raouche, some with views over Pigeon Rocks, two slabs of volcanic rock carved out by the sea about 200 yards offshore.
Both Verdun and Raouche are separated from the sea by the Corniche, made up of ave de Paris and ave Général de Gaulle. Years ago, this was a fashionable area to stroll and although it is still popular, it lacks its previous panache. During the day, the traffic along the dual carriageway is ghastly, so save your walk until after 1900. Walking along and sipping coffee or munching a snack is a traditional pastime – huddles of men do nothing else for hours on end, either on the hoof or nestled down in one of the charming open-air cafés over a beer and a narghile.
Weather and Climate
A Mediterranean climate spawns hot summers, warm springs, mild autumns and very cold winters with temperatures markedly lower in the mountains. Torrential rain is a problem from Nov until the end of Apr, turning to snow in higher areas. From June to Oct, coastal areas suffer high humidity.

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