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Airport

Don Muang International Airport is located 25 km north of the city centre. There are two adjoining international terminals linked by a covered walkway (15-20 mins) to a domestic terminal. A transit hotel is located within Terminal 2. The full service Amari Airport Hotel is connected with Terminal 1 by a covered walkway. Be sure to collect and fill in your customs and immigration forms on the plane, as this will save precious time once you land. The lines at immigration can be very long. Business and first class travellers exit the plane first; it is advisable to take advantage of this and walk quickly to immigration.
The Airports Authority has cleaned up its act considerably in recent years, but bags do occasionally go missing. If this should happen, or if your luggage will arrive later on another flight, do not request that your bags be delivered to you, as most thefts occur during transport from the airport, not at the airport itself. Instead, retrieve them yourself or request that your hotel send someone to get them for you. Departure tax is Bt500, payable in local currency after check-in but before passport check. A new international airport is being built south of Bangkok with an official opening date of 2005, although mega-projects are rarely, if ever, completed on time in Thailand.
Airport to City Centre
Thanks to the expressway and tollway extension, the once harrowing journey into Bangkok city centre now takes 30-45 mins, depending on your destination. Official airport limousines can be booked in the arrival halls for Bt500; this is the most carefree choice, next to arranging for a hotel pick-up. At the other end of the scale, if you are familiar with Bangkok and are not carrying too much luggage, three shuttle ‘limousine’ buses run back and forth between the airport and the centre, every 30 mins, for BT70: A1 goes to Silom Rd; A2 to Banglamphu; A3 to Sukhumvit Rd.
Most people, visitors and locals alike, opt for metered taxis. Ignore the touts shouting ‘Taxi! Taxi!’ inside Arrivals; instead check in at one of the taxi stands located outside the two terminals. The receptionist will write down your destination and the license plate number of your taxi – the driver will find you. Do not surrender the paper to him (or her) as this is your protection against drivers who refuse to use the meters (The paper also lists a telephone number and explains how to file complaints). To save time, have him travel via the tollway (Bt30) and the expressway (Bt40). In addition to the meter, you will be responsible for these fees plus a Bt50 airport surcharge.
Orientation
Despite initial appearances, Bangkok is divided into an orderly and navigable city. In general, a small street or alley is referred to as a soi. Principal areas/districts are named after major roads, called thanon. One road may consist of unconnected segments. It is also common for the name of a street to change, often more than once. The Silom Rd area, running north-east from the river, is a main business area. Many major banks and international corporations are based here, as is the infamous Patpong nightlife district.
The CBD (Central Business District) refers to lower Silom Rd, its surrounds and lower Sukhumvit Rd, which bisects Bangkok on an east-west axis. Sukhumvit-Ploenchit-Chidlom is the city’s main commercial district, with plenty of hotels, restaurants, and shops. For boutique and department store shopping, the best locations are The Emporium, Central Chidlom, and Siam Square-Siam Centre, all of which are on the clean and convenient BTS elevated train line.
Ratchadamri Rd connects Silom and Sukhumvit-Ploenchit-Chidlom and is the location of the famous Erawan shrine, with its image of the four-headed Brahma (Phra Phrom), Hindu god of creation. The east-west Rama IV Rd intersects the Silom-Ratchadamri intersection and ends in middle Sukhumvit. Ratchadaphisek and Asoke are different sections of the same road, which crosses Rama IV near Klong Toey Port and runs north past the Queen Sirikit Convention Centre and intersects Sukhumvit Rd. The subway system currently under construction will run on this route.
Located on the northern end of the city at Muang Thong Thani is Impact Arena, a convention and exhibition centre. Another is BITEC in the south on Bang Na-Trad Highway. Both can be reached via the expressway.
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Kanchanaburi is the site of the Bridge over the River Kwai and not to be missed if you have a day to spare. Most organised tours provide a 2-day package with an overnight in this jungle province west of Bangkok. But it can be visited in a day. Best way is to hire a car, leaving Bangkok at 0700 to arrive in Kanchanaburi around 0900 before the sun gets too hot. Spend a worthwhile and emotionally moving 2-3 hours visiting the Bridge, War Museum and Allied soldier cemeteries before a leisurely lunch and returning to Bangkok in the afternoon.
The beautiful National Park island of Ko Samet, plus the beaches of Pattaya, Hua Hin, Bang Saen and Ko Sri Racha, are all also within 2-3 hrs drive of the city. Hua Hin to the south-west near Kanchanaburi can be reached by train from Hua Lamphong station or the smaller Bangkok Noi station on the other side of the river, or by bus from the Southern Bus Terminal on Pinklao Rd. For the other beaches to the south east, take a public express bus from the Eastern Bus Terminal on Sukhumvit Rd opposite Soi 63. All buses depart hourly from 0900-2100 and fares are less than Bt100 each way. Alternatively, hire a taxi for Bt1,000-1500.
The ancient capital of Ayuthaya, 100 km north of Bangkok, features an impressively preserved legacy of imperial ruins and can be reached by bus, train or boat. Principal riverside hotels operate pleasant daily cruises including lunch for around Bt1,500 or you can rent a boat to yourself for Bt250. On Sun, a more basic cruise leaves Tha Chang Pier at 0830, returns at 1730 and costs Bt250. Around 30 km east of the city is Crocodile Farm where some 30,000 reptiles can be seen at close quarters. Nearby is Muang Boran in Changwat Samut Prakan, offering a whistlestop tour of Thailand’s historic sites in miniature. If you are weekending in Pattaya, there is an interesting and little-known rail option for your return to Bangkok, departing at 1300 on Sun. For Bt30, the train takes a route through paddy fields and country villages, which is far more enjoyable than sitting on a bus and gives a brief introduction to Thai rural life.
Getting Around
Taxis: Taxis are abundant in Bangkok, as is traffic in general. The end of each month sees an increase in cars, as well as congestion and frequent gridlock, as Thais go out to spend their salaries. Patience is essential when taking a taxi. All are now metered and you should demand its use. If the driver refuses, don’t argue. Simply exit the cab and find another. Flagfall is Bt35, increasing in Bt2 increments every 400 metres.
The meterless 3-wheeled samlor, or tuk-tuk, is a fun and sometimes faster way to navigate traffic-choked streets. Negotiate the fare before boarding but, as a non-Thai speaking foreigner, reckon on paying the same as you would pay for an air-conditioned metered taxi.
Motorcycle Taxis: Also known as motorsai rap jang, these speedy machines congregate on most corners and will whizz you to your destination in a matter of minutes. You can spot the drivers by their brightly coloured tunics with numbers on the back. They are normally loitering around motorbikes playing Chinese chess with cola bottle tops while waiting for customers. Fares vary according to distance, traffic and weather, but riders are expert at getting through congestion. Helmets are not always provided, or insurance, so it really is a game of dare when you embark on one of these journeys.
River Taxis: These are a good way of traversing the city. They travel up and down the Chao Phraya, with frequent stops within walking distance of main centres. You can also hire a long tail boat for Bt400 per hour for go-as-you-please trips to view major riverside sights or discover the many canals that interweave the city.
What to see
River Excursion: A 2-3hr long tail boat ride will whizz you around the klongs to see parts of Bangkok that few foreign residents see. The people living on the river provide a fascinating insight into how the vast majority of Thais live in the capital. There is even a bank boat that calls to collect their savings each week. Ask to make a short stop at Wat Arun, the Royal Barge and ‘the place where you can feed a thousand fish’.
Nonthanburi: A small town about 90 mins north of Bangkok, containing a fascinating market and an excellent riverside freshwater fish restaurant called Rim Fung.
Grand Palace: A stunning compound of palaces and reception halls to delight the most jaundiced culture vulture. The gold and bejewelled exteriors blind you as they catch the dazzling rays of the sun. Within the compound is Wat Phra Kaew, containing the famous Emerald Buddha, one of the most sacred images in Thai Buddhism. Dress code prohibits sandals, sleeveless shirts and shorts, and is strictly enforced. Naphrathat Rd.
Jim Thompson’s House: After World War II, Thompson, an American, made Thailand his home and helped to revitalise the silk industry. He later disappeared mysteriously during a trip to Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands, leaving behind a beautifully preserved old Thai house, complete with an impressive collection of South-East Asian art and artefacts. The house is now a museum with daily tours. Soi Kasemasan 2, off Rama I Rd, near Siam Sq.
Wat Pho (aka Wat Phra Chetuphon ): The oldest and largest temple (wat) in Bangkok. Features the longest reclining Buddha as well as a massage school in the grounds.
National Museum: Originally built in 1782 as the palace of Rama I’s viceroy and transformed in 1884 into a museum of Thai life, art and artefacts. Free English-speaking tours every Weds and Thurs morning, starting from the ticket pavilion at 0930.
Muay (Kick) Boxing: Tournaments are staged several times weekly at Lumpini or Ratchadamnern stadiums. Visitors are normally urged to purchase a Bt1,000 ticket although you can purchase a Bt300 ticket for standing and be just as comfortable sipping a beer as you watch the masters of this unusual way of boxing.
Patpong: Famous red light district; unprepossessing by day, bazaar and bizarre from 1800 onwards. Comprises four small sois running off Silom Rd, one catering for straights, one for gays, one strictly for Japanese and one for don’t knows/don’t cares. More knockabout night market than naughty these days, and has been superseded for sleaze by other districts. Fun, lively and innocuous for all but prudes. The street market shuts up shop at midnight.
Lumpini Park: Bangkok’s primary park, known as the green lung of the city, where locals practise Tai Chi, sword fighting and Gong Fu. Dogs are banned, making it an ideal place to jog round and for children to play. There are classical concerts on Sun evenings in Dec and Jan. Take your own picnic and rug to sit on, and relax with a glass of wine.
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No exaggeration, Bangkok is a shopper’s paradise. You can overdose on cheap, copy watches, jeans, T-shirts, luggage and computer parts as well as buy the ‘real thing’ at a fraction of the price back home. Keep receipts for purchases over Bt5,000 for reclaiming VAT at the airport on departure. Thai silk is justifiably renowned as the best in the world; Jim Thompson’s main store at Silom Rd carries a formidable range of scarves, ties, hankies and upholstery. Tailor shops hug every corner, but be wary of those claiming delivery in 24 hours. Together with several measuring appointments and fittings, good tailors normally take between 3 and 14 days to make a decent outfit and true to the saying ‘you get what you pay for’. Two reliable gentlemen’s tailors are Raja’s at Sukhumvit Soi 4 and Dino opposite Soi 15 on Sukhumvit. Khun (Mr) Noi speaks excellent English and is adept at cutting a suit in Savile Row styles. Average cost is Bt15,650, including fabric. Noi also designs and makes suits for women. For ladies’ casual or formal evening wear, Narin Couture between Soi 10 and 12 on Sukhumvit is recommended, although pricey. Khun Narin studied in Paris and designs with the flair of a French designer. Ma Ma Michelle at the Asoke Junction on Sukhumvit is another firm favourite with foreign women.
Care is required when purchasing jewellery. Some authentication certificates issued are not worth the paper they are printed on and you should never buy from shops that a tout or tuk-tuk driver recommends. Reputable retailers include Mason Jewellery, a family outlet on Silom road, two blocks from the Narai Hotel, where you can choose from items designed to your own specification; their own unique designs or jewellery fashioned to more famous designs from around the world. You can also negotiate 10-30% off the price. Foreign Embassy staff recommend Uthai’s Gems in Soi Ruam Rudee, where Nancy Reagan was a customer, or Vilai’s Gems on Wireless Rd, where Bill Clinton purchased gems. Pantip Plaza is the place to go for computer technology. Located on Petchburi Road, it comprises a large shopping mall selling everything from chips to mainframes. Pirate software is also available here. Central department stores, with fixed prices, are located at various points around the city, selling everything from houseware and baby clothing to cosmetics. Emporium on Sukhumvit Rd is an upmarket shopping mall selling authentic Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Fendi, Versace and others. For antiques and collectables, try River City shopping centre adjacent to the Royal Orchid Hotel and for bags and luggage of all brands, shapes and size, check out the nearby Silom Village on Silom Rd.
Weather and Climate
Primary features of Bangkok’s climate are heat and humidity in varying degrees through three seasons. The hot-dry season is Feb-May, with an average day temperature of 34°C. The wet season is Jun-Oct, with an average day temperature of 29°C. The cool season is Nov-Jan, with temperatures ranging from 20°C-32°C and a dramatic drop in humidity.

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