Baku Airport is 30km to the east of the capital. It’s
currently undergoing an extensive modernization program and until
the new terminal is completed, things will remain pretty chaotic.
Refreshments are few and far between, though there is a
business-class lounge. Baku is well-connected to many major
cities, especially in the ex-Soviet block, plus Germany, Israel,
Iran, the Netherlands, Turkey, Pakistan, Switzerland, the UK and
the UAE.
Remember to declare computers and other valuables on entry as
Customs will check your declaration form when you leave. If
you’ve purchased an Oriental carpet, be prepared to pay a small
‘fine’ to export the rug.
Airport to City Centre
Taxis are the only feasible form of transport for the 30min
journey, which should cost US$15-20. Use either a yellow Star cab
or a white cab with a blue sign who are the only two official taxi
companies in Baku. Negotiate the fare in advance.
Orientation
Baku is not a difficult city to navigate, planned on a compact
scale with a grid-like network of streets. If you can try to keep
the position of the Caspian Sea (to the east) in your mind it’s
difficult to get lost. The promenade which abuts the Caspian was
built in the ’50s and if it wasn’t for the constant smell of
oil the city would almost have a seaside feel. There are many
public parks, and on Sundays and holidays, they’re popular
places for local people go for a stroll. The city limits grew
rapidly at the turn of the century and the many different European
influences can still be seen in the layout of the public gardens,
boulevards, well-organized squares, straight highways and
monuments and buildings in different styles. One thing you won’t
see are Communist-era statues of Lenin or Stalin: all were pulled
down when independence was declared.
Excursions
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If you have a couple of days to spare, Azerbaijan has many
beautiful places to explore. To the north-west of Baku lies the
city of Shemakha, a popular skiing destination. Shemakha sits at
an altitude of 850m and is an ancient Caucasian trading centre.
The city has an astrophysical observatory which is home to the
biggest mirror telescope in the CIS. From Shemakha it’s an easy
journey to Lagich, a town which dates back to the 4c and has a
famous handicraft centre, ancient mosques and bathhouses. To the
south of Baku lies Lencoran, where former Russian leaders used to
go for Soviet-style RandR. There’s a huge nature reserve here,
and the pleasant climate supports the cultivation of citrus
fruits, cotton and tea. In the far north of Azerbaijan, Khoudat is
blessed with golden beaches, woodland, snow-capped mountains,
rivers and waterfalls, and is undoubtedly one of the most glorious
parts of this unusual country. Khoudat is a health resort with a
very mild climate.
Just 30km from Baku is the Atashgah Temple, known as the Fire
Temple, constructed in the 17c and held sacred by the followers of
the Persian prophet Zoroaster, who venerated the ‘eternal
fires’ ignited from its deposits of oil and natural gas. The
architecture is a mixture of Indian and Azeri and the sacred flame
which is the central point of the temple was lit again in 1969
when the site was fully restored.
Getting Around
It is advisable to arrange a driver for your stay through your
company, and most large businesses have drivers readily available
– expect to pay around $25 a day. Cabs are also easy to find
however, generally costing AM10,000 for any trip within the
city-centre boundaries. Traffic is chaotic and can be frightening
at first – there do not seem to be any rules on the road other
than that the car with its nose in front has the right of way. Not
many taxis have rear seat belts and you’ll need a strong stomach
(or a strong drink) for the first few trips.
Baku has a metro system which runs from early morning until late
at night, but as it has been the subject of terrorist attacks
it’s probably best avoided. Buses and trams are in bad shape and
often overcrowded. Walking in Baku is not a problem during the
day, but exercise extreme caution when crossing roads and beware
of potholes and uneven paving. At night, it’s best to take taxis
unless you know your way around extremely well.
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Shopping in Baku is always something of an adventure. Before
stepping out onto the streets, arm yourself with plenty of Manat
if you plan to do any spending – some shops will accept US$, but
credit cards have yet to catch on in Azerbaijan.
Baku’s main shopping area begins at Fountain Sq. Clothes and
shoes are expensive but the selection of goods improves
constantly: try Balf Collection at 9 Samed Vurgun Street and Hugo
Boss at 34 U Gajibekov St. There’s an excellent selection of
very good baby shops including a Mothercare. Most of the souvenir
shops are dotted around the Old City and sell a range of antiques,
carpets and local crafts. Try Art Salon for paintings and crafts
on Mukhtarov St, or Huriyye-Bike for gifts and souvenirs at 12 U
Hajibeyov St. The Turkish supermarket group Ramstore on 1129 Babek
Ave is the largest grocery chain in Baku and has the widest
selection of products.
Where to walk
With its wide range of architectural styles from modern to
Renaissance and Gothic, Baku is a fascinating city to explore, and
it is well worth taking time during your trip to discover the
culture and diversity of the Azerbaijani people. The best way to
explore is literally to do that – just walk, look and soak up
the culture. Carpet-weaving is one of the oldest forms of arts in
Azerbaijan, the traditional skills incorporating graphically
visual language having been handed down from generation to
generation. The Museum of Carpets and Folk Crafts, formerly the
Lenin Museum, is worth including on a walking tour.
Shirvanshah’s Palace, situated in the old city of Baku, was
built in the 15c when the Shah’s capital was moved from Shemakha.
It consists of the Palace itself where ceremonial receptions and
state assemblies were held, the Shah’s family tomb, palace baths
and the Multani caravanserai where merchants stayed while
travelling the Silk Road. The oldest building in Baku, Synikh Kala
Minaret, is well worth a visit. It is located near the Maiden’s
Tower by the Caspian, which dates back to the 12c. The Tower’s
history abounds with fascinating legends, including that of a
reluctant bride who stalled her suitor by asking him to build the
tower which she thought would take so long he would forget about
her. The work was completed before schedule and, in despair, the
bride-to-be threw herself from the top of the tower into the sea.
Baku is rich in legend and history and the best way to take a
walking tour is to arrange a tour guide before you visit: try
local guide and historian Fuad Akhundov.
If you have a strong stomach, it is worth walking uphill to the
Martyr’s Cemetery, dedicated to the memory of those who lost
their lives during the war with Armenia and also to the 137 people
who were ‘officially’ killed on 19 and 20 January 1990 when
Soviet tanks and troops took to the streets of Baku. Photographs
of victims featured on each tomb-stone are sobering and poignant.
Weather and Climate
Azerbaijan’s climate ranges from alpine to sub-tropical across
nine climatic zones. Though there are four distinct seasons, Baku
enjoys a mild climate with sub-tropical summers and mild to cool
winters. The city does suffer strong winds from the north, but
snow rarely settles. It is on the same latitude as Greece and
Italy, has the greatest number of fine days in the Caucasus, and
the least amount of rain. The average annual temperature is 14.5°C.
Humidity levels are high in summer.
City Map