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Airport

The fastest route from London to Asunción is via Brazil (São Paulo), although the busier route is via Argentina (Buenos Aires). The non-stop flight time from London to São Paulo is about 10 hrs. There is normally a 2-3 hr stop over in São Paulo before the connecting flight to Asunción, which takes about 1 hr 45 mins. The Silvio Pettirossi International Airport is located on the outskirts of Asunción, in the borough of Luque, about 13km from the city centre. Despite its international status, the airport facilities are rather basic, although important services such as money exchange, tourist information, car rental, a post office and some small gift and duty free shops are available. All over the terminal you will see shoe-shiners and baggage carriers. They don’t receive a wage, but rely on tips. Don’t be too generous: US$1 should be enough.
Airport to City Centre
All the first-class hotels have an airport transfer service and they’ll pick you up if you’ve made a reservation. Alternatively, special bright blue taxis (normal city taxis are yellow with a black top) make the trip from the airport to the city and back for a fixed price of US$25. They don’t have meters, so it’s advisable to agree the fare before getting in. If you take a yellow cab, insist that the driver starts the meter straight away. Generally, you get the best service from radio taxis, and avoid taxis that do not display a special register number or the number of their taxi station. The third alternative, by bus (Line 30 connects the airport with the city centre), is not recommended because the buses are old, hot, noisy, dirty and pretty dangerous. A one-way ticket to the city centre costs G850. There is no train, metro or other public transport system. Paraguay’s roads are generally poor. There are only two main roads connecting the airport with the city centre and both of them are quite crowded most of the time. The trip to the city centre takes about half an hour, but during rush hour you’ll need to allow a lot more time. Rush hour is between 0700-0800, around midday, and after 1830. 
However you choose to travel, just make sure that you come prepared for rain! Heavy tropical rainstorms are common in Paraguay. They can bring traffic to a total standstill, since there is no drainage system on the roads. It doesn’t always cause traffic paralysis, but it inevitably adds to your journey.
Orientation
Asunción was founded by Spanish settlers on the banks of the Río Paraguay. The centre, which contains the most important political and commercial institutions as well as most of the hotels, still nestles on the edge of this big river. The city is laid out in square blocks or ‘cuadras’, in theory 100m wide, following construction rules for colonial cities laid down by the Spanish. The resulting city map looks like a chess board, making orientation easy. Even today, the city’s expansion continues this basic pattern. Although its location on the banks of a river gives it a romantic feel, it also complicates traffic flow, since access is only possible from one side. The city centre gets very congested and it’s often faster on foot than in a car. Although walking is a good option during winter, it is not recommended in summer because of the heat, or at any time of year during the evening, as it is dangerous. 
A secondary centre is being established in the district of Villa Morra where a number of banks, shopping centres, restaurants and discos have opened in the past few years. The main roads entering and leaving the city centre are Ave Mariscal López and Ave España. Near the city centre they merge into El Paraguayo Independiente. The heart of Asunción is about two blocks up from El Paraguayo Independiente along Calle Palma, with the central squares Plaza de los Heroes, Plaza O’Leary and Plaza de la Democracia, in front of the Hotel Guaraní. House numbers indicate geographical location, rather than a relative position along the street. So house no. 2410 is not the 2,410th house from the start of the street, but the house located 10m from the corner of the 24th block, counting from the beginning of the street. Paraguayans don’t tend to use house numbers when describing an address, preferring instead to use the street names forming the nearest intersection. 
Excursions     Affärsresor - Affärsresabyrå    Queensway Travel
Paraguayan people are very friendly and often invite people to their country homes for an ‘asado’, a local name for any type of barbecued beef – the most popular dish in Paraguay. A popular spot is around the lake of Ypacaraí, about an hour away from Asunción. Many of Asunción’s city dwellers have their weekend houses (casas quintas) in a small village called San Bernardino, where there are also hotels in the style of an asado, like Los Alpes, Km 46.5 Ruta General Morínigo. 
Most of the other major tourist attractions, with the exception of lake Ypacaraí (see above), are about 300km out of town, such as the Chaco Central district, Encarnación or Tres Fronteras. The most extraordinary sight, however, is not actually located in Paraguay, but about 30km behind the border, in Brazil. It is the Iguazú Falls, one of the greatest waterfalls in the world and on a par with Niagara and Victoria. It is perhaps best known to westerners as the waterfall that features in the breath-taking opening scenes of The Mission, starring Jeremy Irons and Robert de Niro.
Getting Around
The easiest way to get around the centre is by taxi. There is a taxi stop at least every ten blocks. If you don’t find one immediately, you can generally hail one in the street. There are central taxi stops at Nuestra Señora de la Asunción and Cerro Corá, and at Independencia Nacional and Mariscal Estigarribia, both on the sides of the central squares. The city centre itself is not large, extending about 13 blocks (1.3km) east to west and 10 blocks (1km) north to south. Otherwise, you can rent a car to get around. Ask at your hotel or call National Car Rental – Inter Rent. If you’re brave enough to take on the Paraguayan roads, then you’re better off with a jeep or any other off-road car. Paraguay’s rail system is one of the oldest in South America, and it hasn’t been upgraded since it was first established – the engines are still wood-fired. National train company Ferrocarril Carlos Antonio López still operates, but has no real function as a transport system. It’s really more of a tourist attraction. Every Sun during the summer, there’s a tourist train from Asunción to Areguá. The one-way trip takes about 3 hrs by train and only 30 mins by car. 
What to see
Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace): This horseshoe-shaped building with its conspicuous turret is something of a local landmark. It contains the government headquarters and the president’s central office. It was originally constructed by British engineer Joseph Taylor in 1860 as a residence for Francisco Solano López. But, due to the Triple Alliance War (1864-1870), it was not opened until 1892, after which Juan B Esquiza declared it the new seat of the government. 
Casa Viola: This mid-18c building is one of few remaining examples of Spanish colonial architecture to have survived the urban redevelopment of president Gaspar Rodríguez de Francia, after the Republic’s independence in 1811. The Spanish Government paid for its renovation to mark the 500th anniversary of the discovery of America. Now, it contains an art gallery, the council library and a smart bar. There’s also a romantic view of the presidential palace opposite from its first-floor terrace. 
Casa de la Cultura: This 17c building was home to Jesuit missionaries until their expulsion by King Carlos III of Spain in 1767, after which it was converted into the Royal Seminary of San Carlos. In 1810, it became a barracks, serving as a refuge for the last Spanish governor, Bernardo de Velazco, before he surrendered in 1811. It now houses the Chamber of Representatives, although a new parliament building is planned for 2002. The few buildings that are not used for parliamentary business are open for visits. 
National Congress: The ‘cabildo de Asunción’ as Paraguayans call it, contains the senate chamber, the seat of Paraguay’s legislative power. It originally housed the government palace before the López palace replaced it. Nearby is the Plaza de la Independencia with its statue of Juan de Salazar, founder of Asunción. Although you’re not allowed inside, it’s worth a trip just to see this beautiful building in a magnificent setting on the banks of the Río Paraguay. 
Oratory of the Virgin of our Lady of Asunción and National Pantheon of Heroes: The chapel was commissioned by president Francisco Solano López in 1863 who dedicated it to the virgin Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, patron saint of the city. In 1864, construction was halted by the Triple Alliance War against Argentina, Brazil and Uruguay, and wasn’t started again until 1930. The building was finally inaugurated in 1936. The chapel contains the tombs of Mariscal Francisco Solano López and the unknown soldier from the Chaco War against Bolivia (1932-1935). 
Museum of Fine Arts and Antiquities: The museum, officially opened in 1909, contains works of art recovered from Uruguay in 1885 – spoils of the Triple Alliance War. The museum also contains the library of Enrique Solano López and works of art acquired by its founder Juan Silvano Godoy, during his years of exile. The museum also exhibits works by local artists María Sarny, Guillermo Ré, Carlos Colombino and Héctor da Ponte. There is also a collection from the Jesuit period, including sculptures rendered in marble and wood, medals, coins, miniatures and portraits. 
Estación Central de FFCC (Central Railway Station) ‘Carlos Antonio López’: This building dates back to president Carlos Antonio López’s reign. Here you can admire Sapucai, one of the first locomotives in the River Plate region. The station served as a hospital during Triple Alliance War and there’s a museum which displays documents detailing Paraguay’s rail history. At weekends, concerts, expositions and cultural events are held here. 
Botanical Garden with Zoo and Museum: Enjoy a relaxing walk in these tranquil turn-of-the-century gardens, located close to the city centre on Ave Artigas and Ave Primer Presidente. The extensive park has indigenous trees and a small but interesting zoo featuring native animals, and a natural history museum showcasing ‘natural’ and ‘Indian’ history. 
Museum Andrés Barberro: Contains the most important archaeological collection in Paraguay, detailing Indian history. 
Postal History Museum of the Central Mail: Created by the Dirección General de Correos and Telegraphos in 1929 around a collection of stamps belonging to the Unión Postal Universal. The displays also include many objects and photographs cataloguing the history of the postal service. The building itself is worth seeing, particularly the impressive inner courtyard. 
Institute of History and Military Museum of the Ministry of Defence: These two museums contain relics from both the Triple Alliance (1864-1870) and the Chaco (1932-1935) wars, consisting mainly of trophies returned from Uruguay, Argentina and Bolivia, all displayed in the home of General Bernardino Caballero. The museum features some of the general’s personal possessions including his collection of war photographs, his coin collection, his library and other important documents. There are also uniforms of the war heroes and former Paraguayan presidents Francisco Solano López and José Félix Estigarribia. 
House of Independence: This historical building, belonging to the Martínez Saenz brothers, was where the secret plans to overthrow the Spanish colonialists were hatched. The declaration of independence, bringing about the birth of the Republic of Paraguay in 1811, was also finally signed here. After years of neglect, the building opened as a museum in 1965. Several rooms feature colonial furniture as well as personal possessions of the heroes of the independence and the founder of the Republic. 
Museum of Barro and Centre of Visual Arts: The museum contains some 2,000 pieces featuring both Paraguayan contemporary art and Indian art.
Cathedral Museum: The Cathedral may not be the most beautiful or even the most important church in Paraguay, or in Asunción for that matter, but the museum, built during the government of Carlos Antonio López in the mid-19c, is definitely worth a visit.
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Most major shops and stores are found in the centre. For clothing, the best selection is probably around Nueva Americana and Martel but be aware that styles are somewhat different to Europe. If you’re after souvenir shops then head for Plaza Central or near Plaza Uruguay and towards Palma and Ave Colón. Leather goods are good value here and there’s plenty of choice, with European and local designs. Alternatively, you could try the three major shopping centres in Asunción. The Excelsior Shopping Mall is in front of the Hotel Excelsior, at Chile and Fulgencia R Moreno. Mariscal López Shopping is located on Villa Morra before the crossing of Ave Mariscal López and Ave San Martín. The grandest is probably Shopping del Sol on Ave España, which can be found on the way to the airport. The centres offer clothing, beauty products, books, music, electronic equipment etc. The Excelsior Shopping Mall and Shopping del Sol both have cinemas. The malls in Uruguay tend to be smaller than the ones you’ll find in other South American countries. 
Where to walk
If you decide to take a walk, avoid the hottest part of the day and definitely avoid walking around at night. A good city walk starts in front of the presidential palace. Follow El Paraguayo Independiente to the left, leaving the palace behind you, along the Río Paraguay. After 200m you’ll pass the Casa de la Cultura where several parliament buildings, the cathedral and part of the Catholic University are located. Follow El Paraguayo Independiente for a further 400m in the same direction and you come to the Plaza Uruguaya and the central railway station. There are also three bookshops here, which are open 24 hrs. Leave Plaza Uruguaya on Mariscal Estigarribia. You are now heading back in the direction you came from, parallel to El Paraguayo Independiente, just two blocks above. 
Continue along Mariscal Estigarribia for a few hundred metres until you reach Plaza O’Leary, one of the four blocks forming the Plaza Central of Asunción. Here Mariscal Estigarribia becomes Palma, Asunción’s central street. Going straight along Palma you’ll pass some of Asunción’s most important shops and restaurants. The municipal government has made several attempts to convert Palma into a pedestrian area during the past few years. After seven blocks you reach the bigger Ave Colón, going uphill to your left and downhill to your right. Turn right and just two blocks further on you’ll see the entrance to the Puerto de Asunción and the central custom building. Next door is the presidential palace, signifying that you have now arrived back where you started.
Weather and Climate
In spring the temperature is a pleasant 25°C during the day, but in summer it gets very hot, with temperatures over 40°C. Summer is also the wettest season, with rain at least once a week. Autumn sees frequent weather changes, with temperatures fluctuating between 18°C and 30°C. The changeable weather continues in winter, when warm clothes like pullovers, overcoats and jackets are needed as temperatures fall to 10°C with 90% humidity.