City Information
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Travel
Airport
Flight time to Ashgabat from London is approximately 8 hours.
Turkmenistan Airlines is the national carrier although their
schedules are prone to change. They currently fly once a week from
Birmingham. The airport is approximately 4km (2.5 miles) north of
the city centre. Compared with the other Central Asian republics, it
is modern, clean, well organized and friendly.
Airport to City Centre
Local buses operate into the centre of town but it is better to take
a taxi. Some hotels can arrange transfers in clean, comfortable cars
when advance reservations are made. Taxi fares are negotiable and
since many arriving passengers will not have the local currency most
drivers are more than willing to accept US dollars. The price will
depend on your negotiating skill and the type of car they have;
Ladas being less expensive than new foreign imports, but expect to
pay between $5 and $15. Drivers generally speak little or no English
but most recognise the names of the hotels. It is not possible to
hire self-drive cars.
Orientation
Originally founded as a Russian garrison town in 1881, Ashgabat has
suffered more from natural disasters than man-made ones. It has been
hit by several earthquakes, the biggest being in 1948 resulting in
the death of 110,000 people. The city has made great strides to
spruce up its image in the last few years. With huge reserves of
natural gas, it is the richest country in the region. The grand
buildings of the Soviet era in the town centre have been painted,
while on its fringes modern buildings, complete with silver, gold or
blue tinted glass, are being erected. Most are business centers or
banks. New multi-lane roads are being constructed and new apartment
blocks are being put up. However, a tour of the older residential
quarters and the industrial sites are a stark reminder of its recent
past.
Excursions
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Travel
Mary: East of Ashgabat, Mary can be reached by car in five hours or
by plane, twice a day, in one hour. If driving you will have to stay
overnight, the best hotel being the 2-star Sanjour Hotel. The hotel
receives mixed reviews so if you crave your creature comforts make
it a day trip or do not go at all. There are two things to visit,
Merv and the United Museum of History in Mary displaying
archaeological finds from nearby Merv. Merv is actually a
number of towns spread over hundreds of hectares. Nobody is able to
pinpoint its exact beginnings with some arguing that it was founded
in the 7c BC whilst others believe it began 300 years later. It is
unusual because unlike many new settlements that are built on top of
existing ones these grew up along side adjacent old towns. Today one
can see ramparts, mausoleums, remains of sophisticated underground
pipe networks and, if you’re lucky, digs being carried out by the
few archaeologists that work at the site.
Kunya Urgench: An ideal way out of the country if proceeding to
Uzbekistan for sightseeing in the east. There are several flights a
day to Dashhovus from where one can continue by road to Urgench in
Uzbekistan. Between Dashhovus and the Uzbek border near modern-day
Kunya Urgench lie the remains of old Kunya Urgench once known as
Gurganj. Scattered over a large area are mausolea and the tallest
minaret in Central Asia. It is a fascinating site and well worth a
visit. Can also be done as a day Can also be done as a day trip from
Ashgabat. Additional options include horse riding and trips in to
the Kara-Kum Desert.In the UK, Steppes East, a tour operator that
specialises in Central Asia, can assist with arrangements in the
country.
Getting Around
Since independence, Turkmenistan has seen an increase in the number
of cars, leading to heavy congestion on major routes in Ashgabat
during rush hour. Roads can be hazardous and drivers should exercise
extreme caution, especially in cities. Most of Ashgabat’s major
roads are well-maintained and lit, but side streets are often
pot-holed and poorly lit. Taxis are cheap but not always easy to
find, though it is possible to flag down any passing vehicle and
negotiate a fare. However, it is suggested that you do not get into
any vehicle that has occupants other than the driver. Buses operate
from early in the morning but stop at around 1800 resulting in
overcrowding towards the end of the day. Hire cars are also
available with drivers through Respect Information Company. Street
names can be confusing: some have been changed to Turkmen names
while others still use their Soviet names and not all maps show the
current ones in use.
What to see
State History Museum: Founded in 1899, this is one of the oldest
cultural institutions in the country and is currently based in one
of Ashgabat’s oldest buildings, dating from 1880. The museum is
small, exhibiting archaeological finds from all over Turkmenistan.
On show are flints and pottery items dating from the Palaeolithic,
Mesolithic and Neolithic periods, a room items from Nisa, a Parthian
site very near Ashgabat, are on display including several devoted to
the unique Bronze Age civilization of Margiana. In addition, many
unique beautiful ivory ‘rytons’ or drinking vessels, marble
statuettes and silver and gold ornaments.
Museum of Fine Arts: This is one of the largest collections in
Central Asia and has works from Turkmen, Russian and European
artists. The most important European paintings are by Dutch and
Italian artists although there are works by English, Flemish, French
and German artists on show. Also on display are crafts and
sculptures, carpets and jewellery of various Turkmen tribes.
Union of Artists: Paintings and sculptures by contemporary Turkmen
artists, some of which are for sale in the gallery shop.
Carpet Factory: You can watch the 200 or so staff producing the
so-called ‘Bukhara’ carpets, and if you decide to buy one you
don’t need an export permit.
Carpet Museum: An impressive collection of antique carpets as well
as the world’s largest Turkmen carpet measuring 80m by 10m which
took four women three and a half years to make. Carpet making grew
from the nomadic way of life of the people: as well as being used
for floor coverings and wall hangings, carpets were used to decorate
camels, for saddlebags and as part of wedding processions. Carpets
purchased in the museum shop do not need an export permit.
Nisa: 30 minutes by car from Ashgabat, Nisa was the capital of the
Parthian state. Founded in the 3c BC this fortress then included the
palace and temple buildings, the depositories and the treasury of
the king of the Arshakid Dynasty.
Sunday Market: This is the largest market in Central Asia and some
would argue comparable with the great market in Kashgar. The main
site covers 2 hectares selling everything from carpets, national
costumes, produce and foodstuffs. Consumer and electrical goods from
Russia, Iran, China and Turkey are also available. At the main
entrance individuals gather to buy and sell vehicles; everything
from scooters to buses are traded. At the rear of the market,
livestock is bought and sold including horses, camels, goats and
sheep. Here too, bulk goods are sold from the back of lorries,
perhaps soap powder from one and light-bulbs from another.
Bakharden underground lake ‘Kov-Ata’: 90km from Ashgabat this
natural underground cave is 220m in length and contains a 80m long
lake. The water is believed to have healing powers and remains at a
constant 36°C. While descending the 266 steps it is possible to
view the wonderful stalactites and bats that hang from the walls and
ceiling.
Weather and Climate
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Travel
The climate is continental. Winter is short and not too cold
(January average –10 to 3°C). Summer is hot and dry (July average
35 to 45°C). Autumn and spring are warm with plenty of sunshine.
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