City Information
Airport
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The Queen Alia International Airport is 30 km south-east of Amman.
Flight time from London is 5 hrs 30 mins. The QAI has all the usual
duty-free outlets including an additional duty-free city shop off
Zahran St between the 3rd and 4th Circles in Amman.
Airport to City Centre
Tan-colored airport taxis are in abundant supply outside the
terminal exit doors, and charge a standard fare of JD12 for the
one-way trip into town. Airport taxis are preferable to the private
yellow taxis, which are legally required to use the meter but
usually entail some sort of haggling with the driver – do not
agree to anything over JD15. Otherwise, most hotels operate a
pick-up service, while a regular bus service operated by Express
leaves the airport every 30 minutes for Amman Abdali bus station
(JD1.5); on the way back the bus stops for pick-ups at Housing Bank
Complex in Shmeisani and Seventh Circle.
Orientation
With a population of nearly 1.6m, and growing fast, Amman is a
fairly small city and tends to feel more like a rather large village
than the thriving metropolises of other Arab capitals like Cairo and
Damascus. The major tourist attractions, government ministries,
hotels and monuments are well-known landmarks and the most important
component of any directions. Amman is built on seven mountains,
referred to as Jebals, which more or less neatly define the city
into neighborhoods. A very good way to get the lie of the land is to
familiarize yourself with ‘the circles’, a reference to a series
of roundabouts numbered 1 to 8 which are spread along a main road
running the length of West Amman and extend into one of the main
business districts, Jebal Amman. Although most roundabouts have now
been converted into traffic light crossings or tunnels, they are
still referred to as the circles.
Amman’s city centre lies beneath Citadel Hill, but it is no longer
associated with high-flying business transactions, though you’ll
still find the important historical sights and a thriving market
place here. Abdoun has the main leisure spots these days, and is
where most of the Embassies have moved. The other business centre is
Shmeisani, where most major banks keep their headquarters and where
several Western hotels are located, including the Amman Marriott and
Le Méridien. Sweifieh and Jebal Al-Hussein are the busiest shopping
areas.
Excursions
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Jordan is a relatively small country but offers plenty of scope for
weekend excursions.
Petra: Ancient Petra, 240 km south of Amman, is Jordan’s most
lauded attraction and a World Heritage Site. The ‘rose red city’
was built more than 2,000 years ago by the gifted Nabataeans,
semi-nomadic Arabs who settled in southern Jordan. Its location
served as a perfect natural fortification to control the regional
silk and spice routes. The Nabataeans acquired great wealth, as
exhibited in the architecture, and fine engineering skills attested
to by the sophisticated systems of dams and water channeling still
in evidence. The city was eventually annexed under Trajan to the
Roman Empire, and trade and culture continued to flourish for
several hundred years. Petra seems to have declined gradually,
beginning with a series of earthquakes between the 6c and 8c.
Archaeologists estimate that they have uncovered perhaps only
10%-20% of the Petra metropolis.
Petra’s greatest treasure is the Khazneh, or the Treasury, star of
the closing scenes of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. Over 40 m
high, its facade and interior were carved from the solid rock of the
mountainside. Incredibly, the ornate capital details are as fresh
and articulate as they were 2,000 years ago.
The best time to visit is sunrise or sunset, when the glow of the
sun brings out the strong red hue of the rock. There is a
Visitors’ Centre outside the main entrance to the site. Southbound
visitors can drive either the Desert Highway (3-4 hrs), a dual
carriageway extending all the way south, or the ancient King’s
Highway (7-8 hrs). The latter is highly recommended for those with
an interest in biblical history – sites such as Mt Nebo, where
Moses led the Jews to view the promised land, are well signposted on
the route.
JETT operates a coach service between Amman and Petra leaving every
morning at dawn from outside its main station in Abdali and larger
hotels. The return fare is JD11, horse hire and packed lunch plus
bus fare is JD32. Taxis charge JD50 each way and there is no problem
catching one back. If staying the night there are several first-rate
hotels and restaurants. Desert Castles: An intriguing group of seven
Omayyad palaces that can all be visited during a day trip from Amman
and combined with a trip to the black basalt Azraq Castle. They are
situated in Jordan’s stark eastern desert, in a ring that can be
negotiated clockwise from Amman. The palaces are really a mixture of
fortresses, baths and country estates, and were in some cases
renovated Roman structures. The most interesting is the Qasayr Al
Amra, most likely part of a larger complex, famous for sensual,
vivid frescoes. More info is available from major hotels and the
ministry of tourism.
Jerash: This ancient city has a wealth of archaeological treasure
and was once part of the mysterious Roman decapolis. It is set in
the heart of modern Jerash, a 45-min drive north of Amman, in the
dramatic central rolling highlands. Built by Alexander the Great, it
flourished as a trading city under the Roman General Pompey and is
one of the best preserved Roman cities in the world. Ajloun: From
Jerash, visitors can travel 20 mins north-west to Saladin’s Castle
in Ajloun. The castle was a base for Islamic forces defending the
region against Crusader expansion in 1184-1185. Its towers,
chambers, staircases and single dramatic entrance create a beguiling
swords and sorcery atmosphere. On the way down the mountain,
visitors can stop for lunch at Bonita’s for a fine view of the
castle.
The Dead Sea: Also in the region of Jerash and Ajloun, the journey
from Aljoun is via a small, winding road through the lush Jordan
Valley via the villages of North and South Shouneh. Visitors can
enjoy a dazzling sunset before unwinding at the government rest
house with a cup of tea or a light meal. If you want to swim, you
can try the facilities of the Mövenpick Resort and Spa. The truly
indulgent should splurge on spa treatment: a Dead Sea mud bath is a
truly unforgettable experience. The drive back to Amman takes about
45 mins.
Getting Around
Taxis are abundant and inexpensive. However, the only sort business
visitors should consider using are the private taxis with yellow and
green plates, which are the most efficient mode of transport in
Amman. Drivers are obliged to use the meter; always insist that it
is in use from the outset (JD0.15), no matter what the time of day;
if the driver refuses or replies that the meter is not working,
simply hop out and find another. Taxi fares have been increasing
throughout 2002: unless you are travelling to the very outskirts of
the city, you should usually pay no more than JD2.5. Remember that
travelling with bags of change is preferable to ending up out of
pocket. Most drivers speak some English but it is advisable to know
the name of your location in Arabic, and the approximate distance.
Women should always sit in the back of a taxi, and men in the front.
Tipping is not usual, though rounding up to the nearest denomination
is the norm.
What to see Weedend
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The Citadel: Rising on a steep promontory over downtown Amman is the
site of the city’s earliest fortifications. Numerous excavations
have revealed artefacts dating from the early neolithic period, and
remaining structures at the Citadel date to the Roman, Byzantine and
Islamic eras. Recent excavations have revealed one of the most
complete Islamic cities ever uncovered in the Middle East.
The Citadel Museum: Small but fascinating, the museum houses an
eclectic collection of artefacts from around Jordan dating from
prehistoric times to the 15c. Among the more notable exhibits are a
set of Dead Sea Scrolls unearthed in 1952 and a copy of the Mesha
Stele, erected by Moabite King Mesha in 850BC to mark his victories
over the Israelites.
Roman Amphitheatre: At the foot of the citadel lies the amphitheatre
built in the 2c by Antonius. It originally accommodated 6,000 people
and is still used today for theatrical performances and musical
productions. A calendar of events can be obtained from the main
hotels.
The Jordan Folklore Museum and the Jordan Museum of Popular
Traditions: Both exhibitions recall 19c Jordanian life and feature
costumes, household furnishings and musical instruments. There is
also a typical Bedouin encampment and various Byzantine mosaics.
The Nymphaeum: The main freshwater reservoir for the Graeco-Roman
city of Philadelphia was dedicated to the water nymphs. A high stone
wall is all that remains of the building. It is currently under
excavation with plans to restore it to its original structure by
2010. The main focus is a fountain, believed to be the central point
of a massive 600 m2 pool that was 3 m deep and continuously
refilled.
The Roman Odeon: to the right of the amphitheatre is the smaller 2c
odeon. Now restored, it hosts small-scale concerts.
Al Hussein Mosque: Construction began in 640AD on the original
mosque erected by Omar Bin Al Khattab, the second Islamic Caliph.
Emir Abdullah rebuilt on the site’s foundations and King Hussein
later carried out extensive restoration in 1987 to produce today’s
pink and white stone edifice.
Darat Al Funun (The Little House of the Arts): Once the home of
Peake Pasha, this early 20c house has been beautifully renovated
into an art gallery with some of the finest contemporary Arab art in
permanent and rotating exhibitions, and works can usually be bought.
The gardens are used for performances and readings during the
summer.
The National Gallery of Fine Arts: Paintings, sculpture and ceramics
by Jordanian and Arab artists and some 19c works. Located in one of
Amman’s oldest and quaintest residential districts on the Dawar
Muntazeh.
Where to walk
Although the city is hilly and temperatures can be hot,
strolling around the shops and markets of Jebal Hussein and the
commercial district of Sweifiyeh is a joy.
Weather and Climate
Hot, dry summers see temperatures of around 30oC most days
June-Sept, though it cools down considerably in the evenings.
Humidity is highest in Dec and Jan, but rarely climbs above 60%.
Winters are cool, usually around 5oC-10oC, and frequently rainy,
with occasional brief snowfalls.
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