City
Information
Airport
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Abu Dhabi International Airport is situated on the mainland, 35 km from the city. Flight time from London is 7
hours 5 minutes. The Emirate has another international airport in its second city, Al Ain, albeit not as large. Abu Dhabi is one of the best equipped airports in the Middle East. The facilities include the 19-suite Airport Hotel, an information centre, car hire, travel agency, hotel reservation desk, taxis and limousines. The multi-award winning Abu Dhabi Duty Free, considered one of the best in the region, has completed a multi-million dollar renovation and expansion project, and houses a vast area of products from designer fashion and accessories to sports goods, gold and jewellery.
Airport to City Centre
Travel time from the airport to the city centre is 20-30 minutes, depending on the traffic. If a pick-up hasn’t been pre-arranged, Al Ghazal taxis are a safer and more comfortable bet than the ubiquitous but unpredictable white and gold taxis, with a luxury fleet of white and purple saloons with English-speaking, liveried drivers. Most fares are metered, although some drivers will agree a set price. Expect to pay Dh65 for a luxury saloon, Dh50 for a taxi. Scare stories concerning meter tampering still circulate, and it’s always advisable to agree a price before travel, or stick with Al Ghazal.
Orientation
The island of Abu Dhabi is five miles wide and nine miles long, and connected to the mainland via two bridges – Al Maqta to the east and Mussafah to the west. The island population is believed to be almost one million, although a lack of official figures and a sizeable number of illegal workers make accurate estimates difficult. The port of Mina Zayed is on the north-east corner of the island, and is surrounded by much industrial development, while the luxury hotels tend to follow the line of the Corniche along the north-west coast. Most residential areas lie in the western part of the island, away from the noise and traffic of downtown Abu Dhabi.
Around the City
Al Ghazal taxis are by far the best mode of transport, although they cannot be hired on the street and must be either pre-booked or hailed outside one of their
favored hotels. The less comfortable gold and white taxis are the commonest way of getting around Abu Dhabi, however, and are now metered with a Dh2 pick-up charge and most journeys around town are around Dh5, so they remain an inexpensive and worthwhile mode of transport. The driving may be erratic at times, but rest assured you will arrive at your destination safely, on time and with no hassle over the bill, as was usual pre-meters.
What to
Visit
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The Grand Mosque: This large, square building, notable for its vast size and triple-domed roof, is most impressive by night when the white walls are floodlit. At the junction of Airport Rd and Zayed I St. Non-Muslims should not enter Mosques. Batin Palace: Home of the current head of state of UAE and the Ruler of Abu Dhabi, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al-Nahyan. The handsome white building is the Abu Dhabi equivalent of Buckingham Palace. However, guests are rarely allowed inside, accommodated instead at the nearby Guest Palace, distinguished by its red and white walls and central tower.
Cultural Foundation: The Cultural Foundation is the arts centre of the capital, aiming to preserve heritage and foster cultural activities. The three main buildings house the National Archives, the National Library and the Qasr Al Hosn (the Fort Palace), which contains the Documentation and Research Centre. Throughout the year the foundation holds exhibitions and festivals ranging from classical music to international book fairs and dolphin shows. There is also a cinema, which screens mainly English films. Entrance to exhibitions and festivals is usually free. The complex is itself a truly fascinating example of traditional Arabian Islamic architecture, surrounded by gardens and courtyards. The Floral Clock: This wonderfully extravagant gift from Geneva started ticking in April 2002.
Center of Abu Dhabi Corniche, just in front of the Sheraton Palms Resort.
Liwa Oasis:
If you have time on your hands and fancy a
unique experience, trips can be organized in 4WD vehicles to the Liwa Oasis on the edge of Rub Al Khali, where the sand dunes are among the tallest in the world.
Camel Races: Held at various desert sites around Al Wathba and Al Ain every Thurs and Fri during the winter, camel races are an unforgettable Arabic experience for Westerners. It’s a good idea to arrive at the racetrack early in the morning to appreciate fully the atmosphere. Check local newspapers for race times.
Petroleum Exhibition: Explains how oil was discovered and developed in the UAE through the use of old photographs and aerial shots tracking the scale of development in the region. Interactive displays and a 25-min documentary give a fascinating insight into Abu Dhabi’s phenomenal transformation from oasis to cosmopolitan city.
Heritage Village: Displays the reality of life in a model Bedouin village before the oil boom, depicting the different lifestyles and occupations, such as agriculture, fishing and trading of the nomadic Bedouin. Includes the myths and the reverence that the Bedouin has for the desert. Regular markets sell traditional Bedouin crafts.
Shopping
Shopaholics get a giant fix as soon as they arrive in the vast duty-free hall, testament to the importance of shopping in the Emirate. For many, it is a way of life. The newly expanded ADDF offers better value than many duty-free shops, while in the city itself the visitor has boutiques, malls and traditional souks to choose from. Designer names abound, and are marginally cheaper than in Europe, while electrical goods, perfumes and textiles also represent good buys. For something more culturally significant, coffee pots, khanjars (daggers), Bedouin jewellery, wooden chests, rugs, and hookah pipes are all freely available. In addition, and somewhat unusually, duty free goods can also be purchased on arrival.
Buyers should be aware that the vast majority of crafts are reproductions, although these are cheaper than the originals and rarely passed off as the real thing. Try the old and new souks between Hamdan and Khalifa, the traditional shops on Al Nasr St, or one of the dozen or so malls scattered throughout the main shopping districts. Remember that bartering is expected in most Arab outlets, so be willing to negotiate a best price. Antique hunters should head up to Dubai, or even better, Sharjah.
Abu Dhabi is going the same way as Dubai, with major shopping mall complexes springing up left, right and centre. Marina Mall, right at the end of the Breakwater and just off El Corniche, has already opened; it’s a vast complex full of major international chains such as IKEA and Carrefour, and it even has a tenement block. The Abu Dhabi Mall, next to the Beach Rotana Hotel and within the Abu Dhabi Trade Centre, is set to become the largest in the Emirates.
Where to walk
A stroll along the Abu Dhabi Corniche is a favourite activity for residents and a must for visitors to the City. This graceful, sweeping coastal boulevard along the waterfront has recently undergone a major facelift, enhancing the backdrop of architecturally modern buildings and facing a sparkling aquamarine sea. Besides admiring the attractive gardens and fountains, there are several places to rest and take a leisurely coffee while watching the world go by. Also worth a visit is the Breakwater, at the Hilton end of the Corniche, where tremendous views of Abu Dhabi coastline can be enjoyed.
Weather and Climate
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The most pleasant conditions are between Oct and Apr, when coastal temperatures hover around 24-25ºC. Temperatures inland are slightly higher, but still comfortable. Nights can get cold, but rain is rare. May-Sept is invariably scorching, with temperatures well in excess of 40ºC and occasionally peaking around 50ºC at midday. Humidity can also top 90%, making it unpleasant outdoors for most of the day and night. Bottled drinking water is the essential accessory at this time of year, and can be bought almost everywhere.
Local Issues
Abu Dhabi is the government seat for the seven Emirates and the centre of religious activity. Consequently, it is a very traditional, conservative, and quiet Islamic city, where propriety is essential. Behaviour and dress code should be respected at all times. The key words in Abu Dhabi are respect and discretion – both for Islam and the Arab heritage and culture. Never more so than during Ramadan, the holy month when Muslims abstain from all food, drinks and cigarettes between dawn and dusk. The fast is broken in the evening with an Iftar buffet. Non-Muslims are also required to refrain from eating, drinking or smoking in public places. All nightclubs close, and any hotel bars that do open in the evening tend to be very subdued. Ramadan occurs approximately 11 days earlier than the previous year, with the start date depending on the sighting of the moon.